Honda FR-V aircon problem
Discussion
We have a 133,000 mile FR-V shed that is usually ultra reliable, however it has thrown a few electrical issues this year.
First the passenger window regulator failed, replaced by one from a breaker off eBay, 20 quid
Shortly after the heater fan packed up, replaced by one from a breaker off eBay, 15 quid
At this point I was marvelling at my ability to keep it running at Shed level prices.
Now the aircon has packed up, I assumed it needed a re-gas so got a mobile guy in to do it.
He reckoned the gas was 2/3 full, but topped it up to the recommended 550grams.
Still no A/C.
It showed no change in his High/Low gauges when the AC is switched on at the dash.
There is an audible click from the compressor engaging and I can see the compressor clutch engaging/disengaging when I toggle the switch on/off.
There are no leaks from the condenser. which is is good condition - dye test done.
The compressor relay is OK (swapped with the working horn one, it works in the horn socket so can be eliminated) and no fuses are blown.
The mobile guy then tried to plug his OBD code reader in but it failed to recognise the VIN, ("Hondas sometimes do that") so he was stumped - to his credit he charged me a reduced fee.
Any ideas what could be causing this? I know there is a pressure sensor in there somewhere but can't see it. Could perhaps the fan going belly up have caused this to go into some kind of 'safe' mode, or blown the pressure switch, which is causing this issue?
I don't really want to replace the compressor as they are about 300 quid delivered, plus labour, which would take us to over half of the value of the car.
I would normally be tempted to just run it into the ground without AC, but the cabin temp is uncomfortable whenever the outdoor temp is above 17 degs C, so we're having to drive round with the windows down all the time!
Any advice appreciated.
First the passenger window regulator failed, replaced by one from a breaker off eBay, 20 quid
Shortly after the heater fan packed up, replaced by one from a breaker off eBay, 15 quid
At this point I was marvelling at my ability to keep it running at Shed level prices.
Now the aircon has packed up, I assumed it needed a re-gas so got a mobile guy in to do it.
He reckoned the gas was 2/3 full, but topped it up to the recommended 550grams.
Still no A/C.
It showed no change in his High/Low gauges when the AC is switched on at the dash.
There is an audible click from the compressor engaging and I can see the compressor clutch engaging/disengaging when I toggle the switch on/off.
There are no leaks from the condenser. which is is good condition - dye test done.
The compressor relay is OK (swapped with the working horn one, it works in the horn socket so can be eliminated) and no fuses are blown.
The mobile guy then tried to plug his OBD code reader in but it failed to recognise the VIN, ("Hondas sometimes do that") so he was stumped - to his credit he charged me a reduced fee.
Any ideas what could be causing this? I know there is a pressure sensor in there somewhere but can't see it. Could perhaps the fan going belly up have caused this to go into some kind of 'safe' mode, or blown the pressure switch, which is causing this issue?
I don't really want to replace the compressor as they are about 300 quid delivered, plus labour, which would take us to over half of the value of the car.
I would normally be tempted to just run it into the ground without AC, but the cabin temp is uncomfortable whenever the outdoor temp is above 17 degs C, so we're having to drive round with the windows down all the time!
Any advice appreciated.
PurpleTurtle said:
It showed no change in his High/Low gauges when the AC is switched on at the dash.
There is an audible click from the compressor engaging and I can see the compressor clutch engaging/disengaging when I toggle the switch on/off.
I am no AC expert, but to my mind, if you are saying the gauges read equal with the AC is off & also when it is on then that would have me thinking there is no flow through the system.There is an audible click from the compressor engaging and I can see the compressor clutch engaging/disengaging when I toggle the switch on/off.
That means the compressor isn't doing anything.
E-bmw said:
I am no AC expert, but to my mind, if you are saying the gauges read equal with the AC is off & also when it is on then that would have me thinking there is no flow through the system.
That means the compressor isn't doing anything.
This has been confirmed by my local indie today. That means the compressor isn't doing anything.
Honda want over 400 quid for one, OEM part is a Denso DCP40015. I've sourced an aftermarket alternative for £172 delivered, plus 30 quid for a receiver/dryer which should always be replaced at same time, so I read. My indie is going to swap them an regas for a couple of hours labour next week.
Ah, A bit late now you've ordered the replacement but I wonder if this is similar to the AC clutch issue on 8th Gen Civics - The clutch attempts to engage, but has too much of a gap once "engaged" - It makes the relevant whirs and clunks, but doesn't quite contact.
If it was that, it can be fixed by shimming the compressor to reduce the gap and allow it to engage once again - https://www.civinfo.com/threads/ac-condenser-overh...
http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/10/SNB6E10G...
You can just add the shims until the original gap specification is met, and they're much cheaper than a compressor: https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine...
If it was that, it can be fixed by shimming the compressor to reduce the gap and allow it to engage once again - https://www.civinfo.com/threads/ac-condenser-overh...
http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/10/SNB6E10G...
You can just add the shims until the original gap specification is met, and they're much cheaper than a compressor: https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine...
Thanks, I had seen the shim issue before and indeed if it was the 1.8 FRV it would share the same compressor as the Civic but the 2.0 version has (I think, from what I’ve seen online) a sealed clutch which can’t be shimmed. Happy to stand corrected though!
ETA, thanks for linking that How To.
My compressor is a Denso DCP40015 and it is engaging/disengaging but still not turning the compressor.
When I say it is 'sealed' what I should say is 'there is no readily available compressor clutch kit' like there is for the Civic.
However, over the weekend I will see if I can get this (circled red) bolt undone and see if it is shimmed. It could just be that my clutch is engaging with the electromagnet hence when viewed from looking at the faceplate it is spinning, but perhaps not transmitting any drive to the compressor because the face plate is not connecting. Interestingly there is an access hole through the plastic inner wing liner to this compressor nut, so it's almost like they know it's a serviceable item
My difficulty will be finding a way to stop the compressor from spinning to undo the nut. That Civic how-to shows an improvised tool used against one of the protrusions from the face plate to lock it in place, alas this is a smooth face so difficult to lock. I dare say there is a locking tool but hard to get hold of.
ETA, thanks for linking that How To.
My compressor is a Denso DCP40015 and it is engaging/disengaging but still not turning the compressor.
When I say it is 'sealed' what I should say is 'there is no readily available compressor clutch kit' like there is for the Civic.
However, over the weekend I will see if I can get this (circled red) bolt undone and see if it is shimmed. It could just be that my clutch is engaging with the electromagnet hence when viewed from looking at the faceplate it is spinning, but perhaps not transmitting any drive to the compressor because the face plate is not connecting. Interestingly there is an access hole through the plastic inner wing liner to this compressor nut, so it's almost like they know it's a serviceable item
My difficulty will be finding a way to stop the compressor from spinning to undo the nut. That Civic how-to shows an improvised tool used against one of the protrusions from the face plate to lock it in place, alas this is a smooth face so difficult to lock. I dare say there is a locking tool but hard to get hold of.
Edited by PurpleTurtle on Friday 19th August 10:22
Thread update: fixed today, my local indy charged me an hour's labour (£78) to flush the system, replace the pump and receiver/dryer that I supplied, and regas - actually didn't charge me for the gas as he's a top bloke.
Now have A/C cooler than a polar bear doing the moonwalk at a Christmas Party.
Now have A/C cooler than a polar bear doing the moonwalk at a Christmas Party.
Further thread update: aircon is functioning really well, but now we have a musty smell in the cabin.
I located the pollen filters behind the glove box, absolutely rank, pitch black dirty and full of all sorts of external crud, David Bellamy would have a field day with the contents. Clearly never changed in the 18yrs/135,000 miles of this car's life.
We've actually had it for 10yrs so a lot of that responsibility should lie with me, I've just never really had to do this myself, and as it wasn't previously smelling I just left them alone.
A tenner spent on new ones on eBay, now odour free!
I located the pollen filters behind the glove box, absolutely rank, pitch black dirty and full of all sorts of external crud, David Bellamy would have a field day with the contents. Clearly never changed in the 18yrs/135,000 miles of this car's life.
We've actually had it for 10yrs so a lot of that responsibility should lie with me, I've just never really had to do this myself, and as it wasn't previously smelling I just left them alone.
A tenner spent on new ones on eBay, now odour free!
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff