Time to treat the chassis - car lift choice?
Discussion
Had the Chim serviced last week (24K)- no problems and it feels and sounds much better, not just the placebo effect as a few passengers have commented how the engine note is smoother and deeper...
Anyway on to the topic. While the beast was on the lift I noticed that the dreaded rust had returned despite a chassis prep before I bought it back in December. Was quoted ~ £750 for a full prep and ~£250 to do the worst bits (outriggers etc). Given that this is likely to be an annual occurance and I intend to keep the car for a few years it make sense to do it myself. I don't fancy crawling around under ramps so I've scoured ebay and the web for cheap lifts and came up with this:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110395&r=2051&g=107
What do you think - would it be suitable?
TigerTiger said:I have got that very same lift and to be honest i cant fault it
Had the Chim serviced last week (24K)- no problems and it feels and sounds much better, not just the placebo effect as a few passengers have commented how the engine note is smoother and deeper...
Anyway on to the topic. While the beast was on the lift I noticed that the dreaded rust had returned despite a chassis prep before I bought it back in December. Was quoted ~ £750 for a full prep and ~£250 to do the worst bits (outriggers etc). Given that this is likely to be an annual occurance and I intend to keep the car for a few years it make sense to do it myself. I don't fancy crawling around under ramps so I've scoured ebay and the web for cheap lifts and came up with this:
www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110395&r=2051&g=107
What do you think - would it be suitable?
I have a WEBER HYDRALIC lift in the workshop - very similar to the machine mart one however it is far more robust and needs a compressor to power it - they are an excelent way of maintaining your own vehicle - The Weber one is rated at 2000KG will see if I have an address for them if any one is interested
Paul
Paul
TigerTiger said:
Just taken a look at your pictures Silver - looks great, how long did it take you?
4 full days of 9 to 5
It started off as a small poke in a seemingly ripe area, then turned into an "oh well, lets have a good look then"
Approx a day and a half chipping, scraping, and hammering to make sure it was solid underneath. Touch wood it was, but lots of surface paint/rust needed to be taken care of.
I then took an afternoon to apply a good brushed coat of red oxide to the engine bay area which by now was down to metal.
Next day was another coat of red oxide painted onto the engine bay area, then I sprayed the remainder with red oxide spray.
Next morning, I applied another good coat of spray oxide.
Next day, 2 coats of paint on, and spray on red smooth hammerite.
Feels bombproof now, trouble is, is that I have to muck it all up with snotty waxoyl.
It's a nice job to have done though, and worth the scraped knuckles etc. I found that it was just the right height whilst laying down to get right into the nooks and crannies. I did give it a good prod in the rust attracting areas with a small hammer and screwdriver. Very relieved to find it absolutely solid.
phew.
I saw a fantastic access system demonstrated at a classic car show recently. It tilted the car onto its side, rather than lifted it. Cost about £500.
First you jacked the car to remove the wheels and fit clamps to the hub bolts, then lift the car, using its own weight to counter balance the effort, by upto 90 degrees. This was demonstarted by a woman (just your regular model, no Fatima types). I was certainly impressed, but my drive is on a slight slope. I can't find the leaflet though, but will look again tomorrow.
First you jacked the car to remove the wheels and fit clamps to the hub bolts, then lift the car, using its own weight to counter balance the effort, by upto 90 degrees. This was demonstarted by a woman (just your regular model, no Fatima types). I was certainly impressed, but my drive is on a slight slope. I can't find the leaflet though, but will look again tomorrow.
TigerTiger said:
Given that this is likely to be an annual occurance and I intend to keep the car for a few years it make sense to do it myself. I don't fancy crawling around under ramps so I've scoured ebay and the web for cheap lifts.
The car roll device looks fun but I wouldn't fancy rolling my TVR. The car lift looks good but at that price I'd grin and bear it with the axle stands.
Why not go the expoxy mastic route?ttp://www.rust.co.uk/ Then it won't be a once a year job, more like every ten or fifteen years depending upon how much you scrape the chassis.
I have used www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_n=123907&p_i=123907 Five years and so far very good. Clean up is as you described but the wire brush bit can take time... Painting the stuff on is similar to Hammerite but without the pinholing problem.
Last winter I borrowed a Kwiklift - see www.kwiklift.com. American muscle ramp that you use your own trolley jack to lift onto stands. Absolutely brilliant.
It is a bit of a daunting task doing the whole frame especially after spending six hours on the thing and only getting a couple of bits done. The whole thing is absolutely worthwhile when you finally finish. What a relief.
I found all sorts of nasties under there - waxoyl on top of rust was the worst I think - it came off in great chuncks.
This really is a labour of love and you have to do it yourself - noone else would be that stupid!
Could probably find some photos if required.
It is a bit of a daunting task doing the whole frame especially after spending six hours on the thing and only getting a couple of bits done. The whole thing is absolutely worthwhile when you finally finish. What a relief.
I found all sorts of nasties under there - waxoyl on top of rust was the worst I think - it came off in great chuncks.
This really is a labour of love and you have to do it yourself - noone else would be that stupid!
Could probably find some photos if required.
Had exactly the same dilemma with my Chimaera, with the powder coating falling off and rust forming on the chassis Looked into every option from the machine mart lift, to digging a pit, but eventually decided on a 2 poster 240volt lift due to the restrictions and limitations of the other options. After weeks of looking on ebay, and phoning around for quotes for new installations, I was talking to the owner of a small workshop who was at the time doing an MOT test on my bike, who had a 2 poster ramp in his fathers garage that he had obtained a few years previously, as payment for a job but never fitted. Anyway, I viewed the ramp which although dismantled, appeared to be in very good order so a deal was done for £700, and I have since had it installed at my mothers garage just up the road from my home.
It has already paid for itself, allowing me to service both my vehicles and to treat the whole chassis with POR15 and waxoil, while standing up, I have also found other faults that needed attention that I would not have been aware of before. Although my friends have suggested A full 2 poster lift in a domestic garage, maybe a little excessive,I have found it to be the most useful piece of equipment I have ever puchased, and I am sure they will change their tune when they need to ask to put their own cars on it.
It has already paid for itself, allowing me to service both my vehicles and to treat the whole chassis with POR15 and waxoil, while standing up, I have also found other faults that needed attention that I would not have been aware of before. Although my friends have suggested A full 2 poster lift in a domestic garage, maybe a little excessive,I have found it to be the most useful piece of equipment I have ever puchased, and I am sure they will change their tune when they need to ask to put their own cars on it.
Holden sell the same lift as agents for the maufacturer (Autec) www.holden,co,uk.
Cost (£999+vat) is less however !
Lift is excellent, although you'll need some planks placed each side to aid ground clearance on a Tiv.
Great for all normal maintenance + chassis etc, but not so good for exhaust access as center part of lift obscures.
Cost (£999+vat) is less however !
Lift is excellent, although you'll need some planks placed each side to aid ground clearance on a Tiv.
Great for all normal maintenance + chassis etc, but not so good for exhaust access as center part of lift obscures.
Thanks for the info. I'm convinced that a lift is the best option.
There's an Autec stockist only a few miles from me in Hitchin so I'll call them tomorrow and see if they have any refurbished units first...
I've also come accross the mini2k lift (see link below) www.ikotec.com/home.html
It is a compact single post lift that can be placed under a wheel and then used to tilt the car to ~45 degress. Looks ideal but I have some, perhaps unfounded, concerns that the chassis may be twisted or the wheel hubs / wishbones be damaged by the side load that will result.
What do you think?
You know strange thing is that mow I've decided to do it myself I really looking forward to it - I'm hoping to start next weekend if all goes well. I'll take is to a local garage for a steam clean and then start scraping and brushing.
Still haven't decided on the best surface treatment yet though. Epoxy seems favourite but all further advice welcome. I'll post pics as i go.
>> Edited by TigerTiger on Sunday 14th August 15:32
There's an Autec stockist only a few miles from me in Hitchin so I'll call them tomorrow and see if they have any refurbished units first...
I've also come accross the mini2k lift (see link below) www.ikotec.com/home.html
It is a compact single post lift that can be placed under a wheel and then used to tilt the car to ~45 degress. Looks ideal but I have some, perhaps unfounded, concerns that the chassis may be twisted or the wheel hubs / wishbones be damaged by the side load that will result.
What do you think?
You know strange thing is that mow I've decided to do it myself I really looking forward to it - I'm hoping to start next weekend if all goes well. I'll take is to a local garage for a steam clean and then start scraping and brushing.
Still haven't decided on the best surface treatment yet though. Epoxy seems favourite but all further advice welcome. I'll post pics as i go.
>> Edited by TigerTiger on Sunday 14th August 15:32
silverback mike said:
Just completed the S chassis with stands and trolley jack.
I Have done the same job on my chimaera. (I used 4 axel stands and a trolley jack.) Although I managed to get hold of some red oxide primer from a friend who works on north sea oil rigs. I thought if it stops them from going rusty, its good enough for my chim.
I also used some stuff called rubber coat to do the inside of my wheel arches. This stuff is brilliant. It dries like a big rubber coating and still stays flexable when dry, so doesn`t crack and fall off. I got it from a kit car show a few years back, I`ve still got the tin in the garage, I`ll try to find out who makes it if anyone is interested?
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