Battery Drain

[dtpugh]

Just started getting a problem with a flat battery.

A couple of days ago the battery wasn't completly flat but didn't have enough juice to turn over the starter. The solenoid just clicked.

I charged the battery and have been driving the car over the last couple of days. Not much, just to and from work about 15miles round trip.

Went to lunch today, returned and the battery again didn't have enough juice to start. Called out the AA who jump started the car. Tested the battery and said that the battery was duff.

I had only bought the battery in september from a local motor factors and it was still covered by the guarentee. So out came the battery and returned it to them, who tested it and said they didn't think anything was wrong with battery and I must have a power drain. To be fair to the motor factors, they offered to swap the battery to prove the point. At that point I refused and said I would investigate first.

Anyway grabbed an multimeter and started to pull the fuses. Having removed the alarm fuse together with the clock and I was still getting .2 Amps. With these removed I started pulling and putting back the rest to try to establish what was actually pulling current. I found that even though the interior light was in the off position it was still pulling power. I then removed the interior light relay, this felt very warm to the touch. This removed most of the drain although it was still showing .02 Amps.

My question is does this indicate a fault with the relay and I have found the cause of my power drain?

Thanks
Dave

[Cider Andy]

Dave, it's possible that it's the relay that's at fault, as you've deduced, but the most likely offending article is one of the door switches. Remove them both, check that the contacts are clean, but most importantly that they're dry.

[GTvr]

If your car is kept in a garage with a power supply have you considered getting an Accumate(Battery Charger/Conditioner)from leven?
Does what it says on the tin, That way battery is always in tip top condition and fully charged.

www.leventechnology.co.uk

[the dodger]

Don't forget that the courtesey light relay is energised all the time the door is open - even a tiny amount. I flattened a battery (to zero volts) when my passenger shut the seatbelt in the door and I didn't notice it was only on the first catch. The door switches seem to have two positions and have to be fully home to set the relay timer. Make sure you have the rubber pads on the door which press on the buttons (these do fall off).

BTW - clock and immobiliser (mostly) do account for about 300mA. TADTS !!!

[zumbruk]

And once a car battery has been run completely flat, it will never be the same again. Mine used to last about 8 months until I got a conditioner - the one in the Chim has been going 3 years plus whatever it went before |I got the car.

[tlewthwa]

I personally would take the interior light relay out (I have) - if you need light then you have to turn the switch on manually but it does save a current drain of nearly half an amp. I also leave a solar panel plugged into the cigarette lighter (picked it up from Maplin for £30). Works a treat.

TOM

[damnfinechim]

Cider Andy said:

Dave, it's possible that it's the relay that's at fault, as you've deduced, but the most likely offending article is one of the door switches. Remove them both, check that the contacts are clean, but most importantly that they're dry.

Sorry for the shameless hijack but it looks like your 'likely offending article' could be the cause of my power drain.

Had the switches off yesterday when fitting alarm and passenger side is quite corroded. Still works fine but battery is very temperamental.

Where can I get my hands on a new set of switches?

Ta

Kempy