Front end suspension refresh… ideas

[Joshandcars]

Afternoon folks,

Managed to get a brilliant set of scissor lift ramps for one axle, and axle stands for the other recently, in preparation to on for winter strip and refresh of the front axle.

Thoughts currently include:

-replace worn ARB “D” bushes with power flex replacements as worn
-replace ARB drop links with upgraded Racing Green items
-replace steering rack gaiters whilst all apart as small cracks present
-Remove all unbolting parts of front suspension, have stripped, then epoxy painted and refaced on contacting faces
-all nuts/bolts/washers/small brackets dipped then zinc coated
-geometry check once all finished.
-replace paint flaked engine mounts with epoxy painted items (already sourced through Racing Green and painted)
-re coat all surfaces in Bilthamber UC clear wax.

Will do the same with the rear next year… question is, does anyone have any good recommendations for anything else I should be doing?

Repaint is because of paint flake and surface corrosion picked up on chassis ice blasting back in March.




Any and all thoughts welcome.

[MikeE]

Depending on condition I'd also replace

- Top and bottom ball joints
- wheel bearings
- steering ball joints
- wishbone bushes (don't go powerflex they only last a few years, go with standard rubber/metal bushes)

[LucyP]

Job number 1. Check if it's had a new chassis recently. I wouldn't want to working under a 19 year old TVR with axle stands on an original chassis.

[pmessling]

When I first got my cerb 12 years ago one of my first jobs was cleaning the outriggers and painting them.

This turned into stripping the suspension and doing what you want to do. Replacing the radiator plus air con. Doing the hoses and pipes and a few other bits.

It can run out of control but you have better facilities than I did when I done it all on the drive.

Should you need any new stainless steel parts, chassis outrigger protectors, undertrays etc then send me a message .

[Joshandcars]

LucyP said:

Job number 1. Check if it's had a new chassis recently. I wouldn't want to working under a 19 year old TVR with axle stands on an original chassis.

Thanks, I had the chassis dry ice blasted back in March this year, and the chassis is completely solid. There are a couple of minor bits I will attend to in the future, but for now they are safely protected and are in no way structural. It’s got to be one of the best original chassis’ out there, and I want to keep it that way.

[Joshandcars]

MikeE said:

Depending on condition I'd also replace

- Top and bottom ball joints
- wheel bearings
- steering ball joints
- wishbone bushes (don't go powerflex they only last a few years, go with standard rubber/metal bushes)

These are all worthwhile thoughts, thanks a lot. I will inspect them all for condition and replace if necessary, don’t see any point in replacing things which aren’t needed.

[Joshandcars]

pmessling said:

When I first got my cerb 12 years ago one of my first jobs was cleaning the outriggers and painting them.

This turned into stripping the suspension and doing what you want to do. Replacing the radiator plus air con. Doing the hoses and pipes and a few other bits.

It can run out of control but you have better facilities than I did when I done it all on the drive.

Should you need any new stainless steel parts, chassis outrigger protectors, undertrays etc then send me a message .

Thanks a lot for the offer… might drop you a message on Facebook messenger.

[camel_landy]

Check and/or replace those fuel hoses.

M

[LucyP]

Joshandcars said:

Thanks, I had the chassis dry ice blasted back in March this year, and the chassis is completely solid. There are a couple of minor bits I will attend to in the future, but for now they are safely protected and are in no way structural. It’s got to be one of the best original chassis’ out there, and I want to keep it that way.

I hope that you are sure. Without taking the body off how can you really know? The Saving Salvage Cerbera chap didn't think his chassis was as bad as it turned out to be, even with the body off, until he started stripping components from it. You should watch his last video. As he says, the front suspension could have collapsed at any minute.

[Joshandcars]

LucyP said:

I hope that you are sure. Without taking the body off how can you really know? The Saving Salvage Cerbera chap didn't think his chassis was as bad as it turned out to be, even with the body off, until he started stripping components from it. You should watch his last video. As he says, the front suspension could have collapsed at any minute.

Thanks Lucy, although see below… it’s definitely good
Outriggers:




Paint flake on suspension arms:



You can see the suspension mounts which were rotten in Saving Salvages video, but mine are all good thankfully.
The outriggers are all all okay too.

[Mr Cerbera]

Wotcha Josh,

Can't quite make out what brake pipes you have BUT I would heavily recommend replacing the brake lines with Steel-Braided ones if you haven't already.
Had it done on my first ever service and it transformed the positivity of the front end

Also, I recently checked the play in the Steering Column UJs and the higher one, which takes all the st off the driver's wheel, had worn far more than the lower one which, on my Baby, has been well lubricated by any number of engine/steering leaks .

When I replaced it, I covered it in a flexible rubber gaiter in an attempt to increase its lifetime !


Also, whilst you're concentratin' on that end, I would recommend cutting the leading inch off the low-pressure PAS feed pipe and using a new jubilee clip to re-attach it to the Reservoir

Sorry, I presume that you're gonna take the Water Rad out to perform you work and, if so, I would recommend giving it many full-inversion swills, in order to remove the crap that has accumulated in it.

Edited by Mr Cerbera on Tuesday 27th September 17:55