DT175 front brake cable

[ThreadKiller]

Hello again,
So I bought some EBC shoes and a new brake cable. The front brake is fairly awful so thought worth a try, although not expecting much improvement!
The original cable has two nuts at the wheel end whereas the new one has one. I’m wondering if I have been sent the right part.

Stupid question (and I think there are such things)… if it’s ok does the nut go above or below the brake plate bracket.I’m sure I would work it out by trial and error, but to save a bit of time I thought I would ask!
Thank you,
Mike

[ThreadKiller]

Oops.
Double post.

[I am alright Jack]

Above..

It may be because of the pic but the new new one looks smaller? If if is the same size you can take a nut off the old one and put it on the new one.

Edit, Thinking about it not sure if it should have two nuts. Someone may have added the second/lower one if the thread in the brake plate bracket has gone.

Edited by I am alright Jack on Saturday 10th September 06:11

[Jazoli]

Looks like it's just a pattern part, it'll still fit, the nut goes on the bottom like the bottom of the OE one, the hex bar sits where the top nut is one the OE one with the threaded rod running through the bracket.

[Turn7]

Add the existing lower nut to the new cable and replicate what you already have,

[Cambs_Stuart]

Turn7 said:

Add the existing lower nut to the new cable and replicate what you already have,

+1.
Even it it works and is secure with one nut, having two will make it easier to adjust.

[ThreadKiller]

Thanks for comments. Can’t fit second nut as it won’t go over the nipple.
I would think the nut goes above the base plate clamp so I can adjust cable and the brake cam lever holds that upper nut against the clamp by the spring tension of the shoes. Just doesn’t feel right that I can’t lock it off and relying on spring tension to stop the nut from moving.
Or perhaps I misunderstanding!

[Biker's Nemesis]

Cut a hacksaw width slot on One side of a new nut and slip it over the exposed cable beneath the rubber.

[I am alright Jack]

It does go above the base plate. I don't specifically know on a DT175 but normally the base plate would be threaded and one nut above it to lock the adjuster, the nut would also take the pressure off the aluminium baseplate thread when the brake is applied.

Maybe the DT doesn't have a thread in the base plate and uses two nuts as standard which gives you three choices.. 1. If there's nothing wrong with the original cable leave it alone, which is what I would do. 2. Buy the correct cable or 3. Cut a slot in the nut on the old cable so it slips over that cable and put it on the new one.

[ThreadKiller]

Yes…. Was thinking aboit that. Wqs wondering if this fell into the category of bodging a brake system! A dab of loctite blue may help reduce my paranoia. Will call WeMoto and ask them. It’s a Slinky cable and not some Chinese pattern part off ebay, so i was hoping it would be right.

[Biker's Nemesis]

Just been for a smoke in the garage so took a photo of my 1977 Yamaha front drum brake cable set up.

The cable is genuine Yamaha, i moved the nut to show the single nut with cut out. I would just cut a new nut and place it on the other side of the plate if you are worried about it not being secure.

Pic.

[ThreadKiller]

Thanks for the comments…. And the photo.
Lug is not threaded and old cable has two nuts…one to adjust and one to lock.
Just slotted and fitted a nut. Seems to nip up nice and tight.
Thanks,
Mike