Freeing off bleed nipples
Discussion
After owning the car for a year, with my son we've undertaken the first annual service on his car before its' MoT. (The car was serviced by the garage when he bought it)
Along with the usual stuff we've changed the coolant (not knowing when this was last done), the final job being to replace the brake fluid (again not being 100% sure how old this is).
The rear drums were no problem, the bleed nipples moving freely. The fronts however are another story.
Having cleaned off the crude, a 10mm ring spanner fits the nipple, but (on both sides) they won't budge, to the point where I fear I'll end up rounding off, or worse - shearing, the nipple in the calliper.
Any advice on how I can free these off - would careful application of a blowtorch (avoiding the rubber hoses of course) be acceptable? Any other ideas?
Not that I'll be doing this work today, but I'm a bit stuck on how to progress otherwise.
I should add, the nipple covers were still present (on all four corners), so the seating for the rubber hose is good.
Thanks all.
Along with the usual stuff we've changed the coolant (not knowing when this was last done), the final job being to replace the brake fluid (again not being 100% sure how old this is).
The rear drums were no problem, the bleed nipples moving freely. The fronts however are another story.
Having cleaned off the crude, a 10mm ring spanner fits the nipple, but (on both sides) they won't budge, to the point where I fear I'll end up rounding off, or worse - shearing, the nipple in the calliper.
Any advice on how I can free these off - would careful application of a blowtorch (avoiding the rubber hoses of course) be acceptable? Any other ideas?
Not that I'll be doing this work today, but I'm a bit stuck on how to progress otherwise.
I should add, the nipple covers were still present (on all four corners), so the seating for the rubber hose is good.
Thanks all.
Buy new nipples just in case.
Use 6 sided socket. Maybe some plusgas for a bit before trying.
Sometimes trying to tighten a little before loosening helps.
I have some excellent extractor sockets that get called in if things are showing signs of rounding off. They've yet to be beaten. Bite into the metal more as you turn them.
Use 6 sided socket. Maybe some plusgas for a bit before trying.
Sometimes trying to tighten a little before loosening helps.
I have some excellent extractor sockets that get called in if things are showing signs of rounding off. They've yet to be beaten. Bite into the metal more as you turn them.
Plusgas is good, though I tried some American stuff, PB Blaster, and have switched to that.
Agree with all the above, particularly heating then quenching with your penetrating oil, that's my usual approach.
I have an induction heater, but yes, a blowtorch is fine if you're mindful of what else is in the line of fire!
What car is it, and how much is a replacement caliper if things go sideways?
Also, yes, a decent socket on a breaker bar gives more controlled application of torque, and if it still rounds off, the extractor sockets (Irwin Boltgrip are what I use) are very good.
Agree with all the above, particularly heating then quenching with your penetrating oil, that's my usual approach.
I have an induction heater, but yes, a blowtorch is fine if you're mindful of what else is in the line of fire!
What car is it, and how much is a replacement caliper if things go sideways?
Also, yes, a decent socket on a breaker bar gives more controlled application of torque, and if it still rounds off, the extractor sockets (Irwin Boltgrip are what I use) are very good.
By way of an update, after a week of spraying the front bleed nipples with penetrating fluid and using a six pointed socket I managed to get the nearside front bleed nipple moving.
The offside front was another story though. The bleed nipple was already rounded off (making the new socket a necessity) and the new socket didn't allow it to move either. I tried applying heat but again to no avail.
On the nearside, I bled through plenty of fluid to ensure the fluid in the master cylinder is as much new fluid as possible. Now I know gravity will suggest the old brake fluid in the offside front would stay low near the calliper but with heat cycling through the brakes, do you think the new and remaining old brake fluid will 'mix'?
If so I would look to change the brake fluid more regularly (annually) to ensure a relatively new fluid in the system. Or is this a foolish notion and I need to remove the calliper and properly sort the problem?
For info - I haven't been able to source individual bleed nipples (although I haven't been to a Ford garage as yet), only a complete replacement calliper (for £60).
Cheers all.
The offside front was another story though. The bleed nipple was already rounded off (making the new socket a necessity) and the new socket didn't allow it to move either. I tried applying heat but again to no avail.
On the nearside, I bled through plenty of fluid to ensure the fluid in the master cylinder is as much new fluid as possible. Now I know gravity will suggest the old brake fluid in the offside front would stay low near the calliper but with heat cycling through the brakes, do you think the new and remaining old brake fluid will 'mix'?
If so I would look to change the brake fluid more regularly (annually) to ensure a relatively new fluid in the system. Or is this a foolish notion and I need to remove the calliper and properly sort the problem?
For info - I haven't been able to source individual bleed nipples (although I haven't been to a Ford garage as yet), only a complete replacement calliper (for £60).
Cheers all.
As above, change the caliper if it can't be removed.
The issue isn't that the old fluid near the caliper is effectively sat there not moving, but that this fluid is old & possibly contaminated & when all of a sudden, the brake pedal goes to the floor due to it boiling it is too late!
Chances are it won't happen, but the brakes are fairly critical & not to be messed with.
The issue isn't that the old fluid near the caliper is effectively sat there not moving, but that this fluid is old & possibly contaminated & when all of a sudden, the brake pedal goes to the floor due to it boiling it is too late!
Chances are it won't happen, but the brakes are fairly critical & not to be messed with.
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