Harpooned by Axle Stand
Discussion
I decided today that my new pads weren't giving me a big enough contact patch on the near side of the chim and stripped cleaned, lubed and rebuilt them. Quick test drive down the A34 and back, to find out that my calliper is hanging off with one of the bolts missing!!
I didn't loctite because I thought I might have to readjust. I was bloody lucky.
Good prompt for new bolts to replace the allen key originals with hex heads, loctite and tidy up.
Just moving the pride and joy and hadn't cleared up as well as I thought when an axle stand came through the drivers side floor.:(
Very luckily the damage was an 8" crack rather than a gaping hole and no other damage!
Today will be my first attempt at fibre glass repair, will let you know how it goes.
I didn't loctite because I thought I might have to readjust. I was bloody lucky.
Good prompt for new bolts to replace the allen key originals with hex heads, loctite and tidy up.
Just moving the pride and joy and hadn't cleared up as well as I thought when an axle stand came through the drivers side floor.:(
Very luckily the damage was an 8" crack rather than a gaping hole and no other damage!
Today will be my first attempt at fibre glass repair, will let you know how it goes.
I agree, The floor pan also provides the support for the seat so its strength is the only thing that will keep you and the seat in its place so that the seat belt will work correctly.
It needs to be matted and it would be worth now fitting some seat bars to bolt the seat though so that the chassis takes the strain. Tower View sell them. Not that expensive either. They simply bolt on underneath.
It needs to be matted and it would be worth now fitting some seat bars to bolt the seat though so that the chassis takes the strain. Tower View sell them. Not that expensive either. They simply bolt on underneath.
Considering that the glassfibre floorpan that you've "repaired" is about the only thing separating your bollox from tarmac when you next go over a humptyback, you might want to reconsider the strength of your repair.
Your should have matted it, preferably on both sides, after first cleaning up the whole area. I'd consider drilling a few holes either side of the crack, which will allow the repair to bond top to bottom, stitching the whole thing together. The matting/resin should be thoroughly rolled to get any air bubbles out. When it's fully cured the underside should be undersealed to make sure no water seeps in to any potential pinholes.
I seriously would not like to be sitting on a seriously weakened and bodged floorpan like that knowing my seat was bolted to it. But then I'm not a candidate for the Darwin awards
Your should have matted it, preferably on both sides, after first cleaning up the whole area. I'd consider drilling a few holes either side of the crack, which will allow the repair to bond top to bottom, stitching the whole thing together. The matting/resin should be thoroughly rolled to get any air bubbles out. When it's fully cured the underside should be undersealed to make sure no water seeps in to any potential pinholes.
I seriously would not like to be sitting on a seriously weakened and bodged floorpan like that knowing my seat was bolted to it. But then I'm not a candidate for the Darwin awards
Flintstone said:
"...gung ho...". Bit harsh.
Didn't mean to cause offense, just trying to get the point across that imo brake calipers not fitted securely and driving off with large bits of ironmongery in the way both indicate a lack of good engineering practice. I'm all in favour of DIY but with a note of caution than some mistakes can be very expensive to put right, and/or life threatening.
Having smashed a hole in the floor, my own first reaction would not be 'Oh well I've never done this before but I'll have a go' (sorry for the paraphrase, I know you weren't quite that casual about it). I would be concerned about understanding whether the damaged panel is load bearing, what the implications of structural failure would be, whether I think I'm capable of making an adequate repair, and if I actually trust myself to make that decision.
There are several lessons to be learned here, for starters I would emphasize the importance of accounting for everything that has been used, down to the last tool, part, nut, washer and cable tie.
Shutting up now ...griffter said:
ouch. Always been my fear using axle stands.
But surely you don't use them under the GRP? I only ever place them under a chassis member .
no I dont. But my point is that I always have a fear of the jack moving as I lift the car, or somehow getting out of position under the car between me checking and starting to raise it. Not got anything to base my fear upon, other than the thought of it not being at a crossmember.
Funnily enough, the elise only has 2 jacking points (1 each side that lifts both wheels) unless you remove the undertray to access the other points.
Guys,
Ive been away agin, so not had an opportunity to read your posts. As far as the repair is concerned, it had been thoroughly cleaned, tidied and prepared, is matted top and bottom and treble layered. The remaining paste placed on top. It has been filed down since. The photo wasn't the final finished version.
Both sides have been treated with black hammerite and its pretty strong. Will take a better photo tomorrow to allay any fears of my 'dodgy' repair.
Finally, the axle stand was not supporting the car on GRP, give me a break, I'd already removed it from the section of the chassis that I'd used. It was lay on its side and when I went to move the car pivoted into the floorpan.
Ive been away agin, so not had an opportunity to read your posts. As far as the repair is concerned, it had been thoroughly cleaned, tidied and prepared, is matted top and bottom and treble layered. The remaining paste placed on top. It has been filed down since. The photo wasn't the final finished version.
Both sides have been treated with black hammerite and its pretty strong. Will take a better photo tomorrow to allay any fears of my 'dodgy' repair.
Finally, the axle stand was not supporting the car on GRP, give me a break, I'd already removed it from the section of the chassis that I'd used. It was lay on its side and when I went to move the car pivoted into the floorpan.
stegefal said:Just worried about your family jewels mate!
Ive been away agin, so not had an opportunity to read your posts. As far as the repair is concerned, it had been thoroughly cleaned, tidied and prepared, is matted top and bottom and treble layered. The remaining paste placed on top. It has been filed down since. The photo wasn't the final finished version.
Both sides have been treated with black hammerite and its pretty strong. Will take a better photo tomorrow to allay any fears of my 'dodgy' repair.
Sounds like you've got it sorted. Still, even after doing a pukka job, I think I'd be tempted to consider putting in the strengthening bars for the seat as advised. Just in case.
I bet your face was a picture when you lowered the car and heard the splintering sound.
stegefal said:
This is the current state: 
Going off that photo I'd be worried. The fibreglass should have been feathered in for 3 to 4 " on either side of the crack top and bottom. I suppose that if you go down the shpub route of fitting bars then it won't matter too much but I'd do the proper repair.
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