A question about buying 10+ year old Porsches
Discussion
I don’t get it.
I’ve been desperate to buy a Porsche for many many years but whenever I get an opportunity to get one I bottle it. What with bore score, IMS, RMS on the 996/997.1 (and 986/987) versions, it seems to me that buying one of these cars is a fools paradise.
Lately I’ve been looking at Cayman R/987 Spyder or 996/997 Turbo, but then I looked at maintenance of these cars for the home mechanic. What a PITA, from accessing engines in the mid engined models to trying to change spark plugs in the turbo versions. I even saw a video where the engine had to be removed to access coolant pipes. Why is everything so difficult to access on these cars?
I watched a YT vid the other day where a chap spent $20k fixing a 2 owner 74k mile 964 C2 over in America, plus the purchase of the car which had gone through a $900 PPI.
My question to you guys is, should one be buying a newer version of these cars over the money pit versions and are there ways of working on the cars without forking out shedloads?
I’ve been desperate to buy a Porsche for many many years but whenever I get an opportunity to get one I bottle it. What with bore score, IMS, RMS on the 996/997.1 (and 986/987) versions, it seems to me that buying one of these cars is a fools paradise.
Lately I’ve been looking at Cayman R/987 Spyder or 996/997 Turbo, but then I looked at maintenance of these cars for the home mechanic. What a PITA, from accessing engines in the mid engined models to trying to change spark plugs in the turbo versions. I even saw a video where the engine had to be removed to access coolant pipes. Why is everything so difficult to access on these cars?
I watched a YT vid the other day where a chap spent $20k fixing a 2 owner 74k mile 964 C2 over in America, plus the purchase of the car which had gone through a $900 PPI.
My question to you guys is, should one be buying a newer version of these cars over the money pit versions and are there ways of working on the cars without forking out shedloads?
You forgot the front AC condensers and pipes that rot under the drivers cill .
You best bet for the least worst , or most DIY er able , = least cost going Fwds and having capitol reserves is go for a Boxster or Cayman 987.2 , the one with the 2.9 so a base that comes with a 9A1 closed deck engine . 09-12 yrs
No IMS
No bore scoring tendency.
No RMS issues
Port injection not valve fouling DI
Get a manual too to dodge any PDK “known unknowns “and expensive lub changes
If it’s any consolation the hydraulic PAS does give better feel than newer electric , they a physically smaller than 981 / 718s and obviously the mid engine handing balance over a 911 goes without saying .
I am an experienced Porsche guy having had 924 , 911 C2 , 968Club sport , Cayenne,Current Macan SD .Additionally as 2nd / 3rd a Testarossa , 360 M F1 and GT4 .Bentley GT
You won’t be disappointed with the raw feel , sound and turn in of the 987.2 .
You best bet for the least worst , or most DIY er able , = least cost going Fwds and having capitol reserves is go for a Boxster or Cayman 987.2 , the one with the 2.9 so a base that comes with a 9A1 closed deck engine . 09-12 yrs
No IMS
No bore scoring tendency.
No RMS issues
Port injection not valve fouling DI
Get a manual too to dodge any PDK “known unknowns “and expensive lub changes
If it’s any consolation the hydraulic PAS does give better feel than newer electric , they a physically smaller than 981 / 718s and obviously the mid engine handing balance over a 911 goes without saying .
I am an experienced Porsche guy having had 924 , 911 C2 , 968Club sport , Cayenne,Current Macan SD .Additionally as 2nd / 3rd a Testarossa , 360 M F1 and GT4 .Bentley GT
You won’t be disappointed with the raw feel , sound and turn in of the 987.2 .
Edited by Fiammetta on Thursday 13th October 09:13
I bought a ten year old 996 carrera 12 years ago. I was worried about bore score etc.
Over a decade later I still have the car and still love driving it, it has regular maintenance of things like brakes, suspension a/c condensers (none of that cheap) but has held its value so all in all it was a great purchase. Glad I bought it and didn't back out due to worries about mechanical failures.
Over a decade later I still have the car and still love driving it, it has regular maintenance of things like brakes, suspension a/c condensers (none of that cheap) but has held its value so all in all it was a great purchase. Glad I bought it and didn't back out due to worries about mechanical failures.
maz8062 said:
My question to you guys is, should one be buying a newer version of these cars over the money pit versions and are there ways of working on the cars without forking out shedloads?
I don't want to sound obnoxious, but seems to me that Porsche ownership may not be for you. They're expensive, yes, there is no cheap way. Saying that, when you compare with other performance cars, BMW M, AMG, Ferrari, Maserati... they're ballpark the same, if not cheaper in some cases.Either you REALLY want it, or find reasons not to buy one! I did this back in 2010 and bought a Honda S2000. Two years later got my 997 and haven't looked back since.
Scrump said:
I bought a ten year old 996 carrera 12 years ago. I was worried about bore score etc.
Over a decade later I still have the car and still love driving it, it has regular maintenance of things like brakes, suspension a/c condensers (none of that cheap) but has held its value so all in all it was a great purchase. Glad I bought it and didn't back out due to worries about mechanical failures.
I’ve a friend just selling his 20 yr old 996 and the analogy I use with people is that it was a £60k+ car when new and hence even though it might cost £20k now, it still has the servicing habits of a £60k car albeit there are plenty of specialists who can maintain at a much more affordable cost than a main dealer often. Over a decade later I still have the car and still love driving it, it has regular maintenance of things like brakes, suspension a/c condensers (none of that cheap) but has held its value so all in all it was a great purchase. Glad I bought it and didn't back out due to worries about mechanical failures.
My friend was unlucky in that his car needed a full engine rebuild (still quite rare given the number sold & his was an unusual fault) but for whoever buys it, they’ll only pay a few £k more than a car without a rebuilt engine & yet his bill from Hartech was much greater and they’ll have the peace of mind it’s as good as it’s going to be for it’s age.
OP, even though the service intervals can be 2 yrs on the new Porsches, you can find enthusiasts getting an interim service annually just for peace of mind and low miles isn’t necessarily a positive as the cars suspension and various pipes can deteriorate ironically from lack of use! If you find a true enthusiast owned car that’s been well looked after, it’ll be a great buy - if you find a car that’s been passed around and they’ve saved on things like decent tyres, it’s likely they’ve tried to run it on a low budget which isn’t good.
Fiammetta said:
You forgot the front AC condensers and pipes that rot under the drivers cill .
You best bet for the least worst , or most DIY er able , = least cost going Fwds and having capitol reserves is go for a Boxster or Cayman 987.2 , the one with the 2.9 so a base that comes with a 9A1 closed deck engine . 09-12 yrs
No IMS
No bore scoring tendency.
No RMS issues
Port injection not valve fouling DI
Get a manual too to dodge any PDK “known unknowns “and expensive lub changes
If it’s any consolation the hydraulic PAS does give better feel than newer electric , they a physically smaller than 981 / 718s and obviously the mid engine handing balance over a 911 goes without saying .
I am an experienced Porsche guy having had 924 , 911 C2 , 968Club sport , Cayenne,Current Macan SD .Additionally as 2nd / 3rd a Testarossa , 360 M F1 and GT4 .Bentley GT
You won’t be disappointed with the raw feel , sound and turn in of the 987.2 .
PH thread rapidly descends into farce...You best bet for the least worst , or most DIY er able , = least cost going Fwds and having capitol reserves is go for a Boxster or Cayman 987.2 , the one with the 2.9 so a base that comes with a 9A1 closed deck engine . 09-12 yrs
No IMS
No bore scoring tendency.
No RMS issues
Port injection not valve fouling DI
Get a manual too to dodge any PDK “known unknowns “and expensive lub changes
If it’s any consolation the hydraulic PAS does give better feel than newer electric , they a physically smaller than 981 / 718s and obviously the mid engine handing balance over a 911 goes without saying .
I am an experienced Porsche guy having had 924 , 911 C2 , 968Club sport , Cayenne,Current Macan SD .Additionally as 2nd / 3rd a Testarossa , 360 M F1 and GT4 .Bentley GT
You won’t be disappointed with the raw feel , sound and turn in of the 987.2 .
With all due respect, the cars from Stuttgart’s stable you’ve listed don’t mark you out as an “experienced Porsche guy”, more of a “habitual Porsche owner”, and there is a subtle difference.
A 987.2 is good car, but a great Porsche ? That depends on what you want from a sports car. If you want something that handles impeccably, is relatively low maintenance, but requires little in the way of skill/nous to drive quickly, it’ll most likely tick your boxes. But if you want something that handles with less aplomb, provides more of a driving challenge and requires some thought to pedal quickly down your favourite A or B road, AND will reward you in a way NO Cayman will, then a 996 would be a better choice.
Of course, the 996 may/will present you with higher maintenance bills, but as others have said, they’re commensurate with what the car cost originally. But bought sensibly, ie off an enthusiast owner and with the protection of a good pre-purchase inspection, there’s no reason why the right car, with proper maintenance, won’t provide you with many miles and years of engaging ownership.
Retires to a safe distance having lit blue touch paper ...
Slippydiff said:
Fiammetta said:
You forgot the front AC condensers and pipes that rot under the drivers cill .
You best bet for the least worst , or most DIY er able , = least cost going Fwds and having capitol reserves is go for a Boxster or Cayman 987.2 , the one with the 2.9 so a base that comes with a 9A1 closed deck engine . 09-12 yrs
No IMS
No bore scoring tendency.
No RMS issues
Port injection not valve fouling DI
Get a manual too to dodge any PDK “known unknowns “and expensive lub changes
If it’s any consolation the hydraulic PAS does give better feel than newer electric , they a physically smaller than 981 / 718s and obviously the mid engine handing balance over a 911 goes without saying .
I am an experienced Porsche guy having had 924 , 911 C2 , 968Club sport , Cayenne,Current Macan SD .Additionally as 2nd / 3rd a Testarossa , 360 M F1 and GT4 .Bentley GT
You won’t be disappointed with the raw feel , sound and turn in of the 987.2 .
PH thread rapidly descends into farce...You best bet for the least worst , or most DIY er able , = least cost going Fwds and having capitol reserves is go for a Boxster or Cayman 987.2 , the one with the 2.9 so a base that comes with a 9A1 closed deck engine . 09-12 yrs
No IMS
No bore scoring tendency.
No RMS issues
Port injection not valve fouling DI
Get a manual too to dodge any PDK “known unknowns “and expensive lub changes
If it’s any consolation the hydraulic PAS does give better feel than newer electric , they a physically smaller than 981 / 718s and obviously the mid engine handing balance over a 911 goes without saying .
I am an experienced Porsche guy having had 924 , 911 C2 , 968Club sport , Cayenne,Current Macan SD .Additionally as 2nd / 3rd a Testarossa , 360 M F1 and GT4 .Bentley GT
You won’t be disappointed with the raw feel , sound and turn in of the 987.2 .
With all due respect, the cars from Stuttgart’s stable you’ve listed don’t mark you out as an “experienced Porsche guy”, more of a “habitual Porsche owner”, and there is a subtle difference.
A 987.2 is good car, but a great Porsche ? That depends on what you want from a sports car. If you want something that handles impeccably, is relatively low maintenance, but requires little in the way of skill/nous to drive quickly, it’ll most likely tick your boxes. But if you want something that handles with less aplomb, provides more of a driving challenge and requires some thought to pedal quickly down your favourite A or B road, AND will reward you in a way NO Cayman will, then a 996 would be a better choice.
Of course, the 996 may/will present you with higher maintenance bills, but as others have said, they’re commensurate with what the car cost originally. But bought sensibly, ie off an enthusiast owner and with the protection of a good pre-purchase inspection, there’s no reason why the right car, with proper maintenance, won’t provide you with many miles and years of engaging ownership.
Retires to a safe distance having lit blue touch paper ...
Maybe it's just time to retire? ;-)
Slippydiff said:
Fiammetta said:
You forgot the front AC condensers and pipes that rot under the drivers cill .
You best bet for the least worst , or most DIY er able , = least cost going Fwds and having capitol reserves is go for a Boxster or Cayman 987.2 , the one with the 2.9 so a base that comes with a 9A1 closed deck engine . 09-12 yrs
No IMS
No bore scoring tendency.
No RMS issues
Port injection not valve fouling DI
Get a manual too to dodge any PDK “known unknowns “and expensive lub changes
If it’s any consolation the hydraulic PAS does give better feel than newer electric , they a physically smaller than 981 / 718s and obviously the mid engine handing balance over a 911 goes without saying .
I am an experienced Porsche guy having had 924 , 911 C2 , 968Club sport , Cayenne,Current Macan SD .Additionally as 2nd / 3rd a Testarossa , 360 M F1 and GT4 .Bentley GT
You won’t be disappointed with the raw feel , sound and turn in of the 987.2 .
PH thread rapidly descends into farce...You best bet for the least worst , or most DIY er able , = least cost going Fwds and having capitol reserves is go for a Boxster or Cayman 987.2 , the one with the 2.9 so a base that comes with a 9A1 closed deck engine . 09-12 yrs
No IMS
No bore scoring tendency.
No RMS issues
Port injection not valve fouling DI
Get a manual too to dodge any PDK “known unknowns “and expensive lub changes
If it’s any consolation the hydraulic PAS does give better feel than newer electric , they a physically smaller than 981 / 718s and obviously the mid engine handing balance over a 911 goes without saying .
I am an experienced Porsche guy having had 924 , 911 C2 , 968Club sport , Cayenne,Current Macan SD .Additionally as 2nd / 3rd a Testarossa , 360 M F1 and GT4 .Bentley GT
You won’t be disappointed with the raw feel , sound and turn in of the 987.2 .
With all due respect, the cars from Stuttgart’s stable you’ve listed don’t mark you out as an “experienced Porsche guy”, more of a “habitual Porsche owner”, and there is a subtle difference.
A 987.2 is good car, but a great Porsche ? That depends on what you want from a sports car. If you want something that handles impeccably, is relatively low maintenance, but requires little in the way of skill/nous to drive quickly, it’ll most likely tick your boxes. But if you want something that handles with less aplomb, provides more of a driving challenge and requires some thought to pedal quickly down your favourite A or B road, AND will reward you in a way NO Cayman will, then a 996 would be a better choice.
Of course, the 996 may/will present you with higher maintenance bills, but as others have said, they’re commensurate with what the car cost originally. But bought sensibly, ie off an enthusiast owner and with the protection of a good pre-purchase inspection, there’s no reason why the right car, with proper maintenance, won’t provide you with many miles and years of engaging ownership.
Retires to a safe distance having lit blue touch paper ...
For the avoidance of doubt here it is again ……
“ My question to you guys is, should one be buying a newer version of these cars over the money pit versions and are there ways of working on the cars without forking out shedloads?”
Where did “ Great Porsche “ enter into the OPs equation?
Agree two peddling a Testarossa or flicking a 360 M paddle or getting / holding a 968CS sideways is for some enjoyable.But unless I am mistaken he’s not asking that kinda stuff .
Sleep tight with your IMS , RMS , bore scoring worries and Ford Focus esq interior .Glad you like the 996 .
Edited by Fiammetta on Thursday 13th October 17:50
Edited by Fiammetta on Thursday 13th October 17:51
Edited by Fiammetta on Thursday 13th October 17:53
One of the OPs questions was around ease of spannering. Unless it's a keep for life car, you are actively reducing the resale value by DIY. Feel free to do your own thing, but buyers generally want to see specialist invoices for service and maintenance - OPC on an older car is not necessary (welcome, obviously, but not necessary).
randlemarcus said:
One of the OPs questions was around ease of spannering. Unless it's a keep for life car, you are actively reducing the resale value by DIY. Feel free to do your own thing, but buyers generally want to see specialist invoices for service and maintenance - OPC on an older car is not necessary (welcome, obviously, but not necessary).
This is the big thing for me; doing some of the work on the car myself like oil changes, basic stuff, but it seems to be very complicated access wise. For example, for some of the 911 models, one has to take the rear bumper off to replace the spark plugs, coil packs etc. it seems overly complicated.I guess for me, all things considered, i’m not convinced that it’s quite worth it, although those that own them love them like a deity.
https://youtube.com/shorts/joc3gTCagEQ?feature=sha...
Handling .If all things were equal but they are not .That list can be dodged with a Mezglers designed closed block 9A1 engine .
Ok it’s insured for the going backwards into a ditch , buts that’s extra hassle for a newbie .
Handling .If all things were equal but they are not .That list can be dodged with a Mezglers designed closed block 9A1 engine .
Ok it’s insured for the going backwards into a ditch , buts that’s extra hassle for a newbie .
When my 34yo Porsche was written off recently I replaced it with one a mere 29yo, so not sure I'm doing this right...
Any car over 10yo will need stuff doing, and the same goes for Porsches as it does for all other cars at this age - buy on condition, don't impose limitations such as less than XX miles, or must have certain options. Get the best you can for your budget. At 29yo mine was still running original fuel pipes amongst many other things and, until this week's work, original expansion tank and sump gasket - but it has been looked after, with only 2 previous owners in that time.
If you don't mind a bit of spannering, then mid-engined stuff is always a bit more complicated, and the compromises required for rear-engined stuff can force certain solutions that aren't really DIY-friendly.
The other thing to figure out is what Porsche have you always wanted? it sounds like some form of 911, but you also mention mid-engine so Boxster/Cayman? And what is it you want from your Porsche - handling, engine, space for 2, or a 2+2, or a family car? Is it a daily driver, second/third car, garage queen? What budget have you got for purchase and maintenance, and does Man Maths work for you...???
Any car over 10yo will need stuff doing, and the same goes for Porsches as it does for all other cars at this age - buy on condition, don't impose limitations such as less than XX miles, or must have certain options. Get the best you can for your budget. At 29yo mine was still running original fuel pipes amongst many other things and, until this week's work, original expansion tank and sump gasket - but it has been looked after, with only 2 previous owners in that time.
If you don't mind a bit of spannering, then mid-engined stuff is always a bit more complicated, and the compromises required for rear-engined stuff can force certain solutions that aren't really DIY-friendly.
The other thing to figure out is what Porsche have you always wanted? it sounds like some form of 911, but you also mention mid-engine so Boxster/Cayman? And what is it you want from your Porsche - handling, engine, space for 2, or a 2+2, or a family car? Is it a daily driver, second/third car, garage queen? What budget have you got for purchase and maintenance, and does Man Maths work for you...???
Broadly speaking, newer is going to mean fewer issues, on average. But even 987/997 are getting on now, so it's a big ask to buy one with zero issues. You could pay a premium from one of the better known independents who will back the car. But typically that's not going to work out cheaper than buying privately and fixing whatever issues there are. If it did, they wouldn't have a business model.
That said, paying the Indy premium / margin should make for a lower stress transaction and initial ownership experience and protect you against any major horrors.
Overall, if you can afford a 997 Turbo / Cayman R, the maintenance costs of most of the cars being discussed shouldn't be too scary. The easiest option would be a 9x7.2 non-Turbo which are generally pretty reliable re major faults, young enough that you'd be unlucky to end up in a complete basket case and reasonable re running costs. i'm personally unclear on Turbo running costs, so can't comment on that. Most of those cars have at least some issues - rotten coolant pipes, worn suspension, gearshift cables ready to snap, maybe a DFI high pressure fuel pump or a cam solenoid about to go titsup.com - but nothing really hideous.
Clock is ticking on our ability to enjoy these cars. And they're not getting any younger - neither are we. If you can afford one, get it bought ASAP, is my advice.
That said, paying the Indy premium / margin should make for a lower stress transaction and initial ownership experience and protect you against any major horrors.
Overall, if you can afford a 997 Turbo / Cayman R, the maintenance costs of most of the cars being discussed shouldn't be too scary. The easiest option would be a 9x7.2 non-Turbo which are generally pretty reliable re major faults, young enough that you'd be unlucky to end up in a complete basket case and reasonable re running costs. i'm personally unclear on Turbo running costs, so can't comment on that. Most of those cars have at least some issues - rotten coolant pipes, worn suspension, gearshift cables ready to snap, maybe a DFI high pressure fuel pump or a cam solenoid about to go titsup.com - but nothing really hideous.
Clock is ticking on our ability to enjoy these cars. And they're not getting any younger - neither are we. If you can afford one, get it bought ASAP, is my advice.
I don't think mid engined Porsches are particularly hard to work on at all, compared to many run of the mill cars they are a doddle!
You will need to raise the car up on stands to do certain jobs ie plugs/coils but any car has to be raised to change the oil anyway.
Lying on your back underneath a Cayman is probably more comfortable than leaning over the top of an M car engine imo.
You will need to raise the car up on stands to do certain jobs ie plugs/coils but any car has to be raised to change the oil anyway.
Lying on your back underneath a Cayman is probably more comfortable than leaning over the top of an M car engine imo.
I've had a few of these 987.1 , 997.1 and current 987.2 and on the Cayman's (servicing aside) you'll probably never need the engine cover off in your ownership.
Even if you did it's 5 (?) easy access bolts and a lift off section of carpet.
Anytime I've worked on them I've been astonished how easy they are to work on compared to other cars, most of the parts are pretty cheap too.
I've never heard of engine out to replace a coolant pipe?
Dunc.
Even if you did it's 5 (?) easy access bolts and a lift off section of carpet.
Anytime I've worked on them I've been astonished how easy they are to work on compared to other cars, most of the parts are pretty cheap too.
I've never heard of engine out to replace a coolant pipe?
Dunc.
Edited by dunc_sx on Friday 14th October 10:38
Agree with all the like-minded spanner wielders on here. I've owned my 997 nearly 12 years and done a fair few jobs myself, none of which were particularly taxing once I'd ensured I'd read up properly and got the right tools together (Working on Missus '91 Mini Cabriolet has helped me amass quite the toolset, lol)
> Brake Discs and Pads all round- This was a relative breeze, not withstanding the punch pin on the NSF Calliper that didn't want to budge initially. (Refit each pin with a dab - a DAB - of copper grease)
> Front bumper removal, condenser check (they were fine) install grills behind each air inlet - Dead easy. Much easier than I though it'd be, despite the amount of underbody stuff that has to come off first.
> New Coil Packs and Heat Shields - Came off the back of an Oil Service which included plugs from my Indy, when they noted that a couple were cracked. Aside from the OSR coil which slightly fouls the exhaust on its way out, this was another job much easier than I thought. Particularly as the new packs were of a revised design that have different fittings, so an 8mm ratchet spanner can be used to bolt up instead of trying to get a Hex drive in there.
> Battery (Twice) 5 Minutes spannering, max. Short drive to reset PASM, PSM, Windows, etc. Sorted.
> Underbody Air Con Pipe Seals - This defeated me. I bought the 2 seals (£12 !) after the system stopped working, and watched a couple of Friends Green Porsche's excellent 'Prep' videos where the seals were noted as a weak point. I knew my condensers were OK as they'd been changed by the previous owner, so I figured changing the seals would be an easy win. Nope. No amount of wrenching (or swearing) was going to budge the union unless it broke first, so I left it until this years Minor service at my Indy. Turns out it was seized and had to be cut off and replaced entirely, but at least the air con works a treat now (It was £180 including the regas for that. Not bad considering the union alone was £90 from Porsche)
>Rear ARB Drop Links - The OSR link was 'noted' on last year's MOT so I replaced both to be sure. £55 for the parts and just over 90 minutes work.
Not sure what jobs lay in the future, but I have to part ways with her soon due to an impending house build / move and we need the funds. She's just sailed through this year's MOT, so she won't want for anything for a new owner (wheel refurb aside as they could use it, but that's the only cosmetic concern).
Basically, don't be afraid; roll up your sleeves and get in there.
> Brake Discs and Pads all round- This was a relative breeze, not withstanding the punch pin on the NSF Calliper that didn't want to budge initially. (Refit each pin with a dab - a DAB - of copper grease)
> Front bumper removal, condenser check (they were fine) install grills behind each air inlet - Dead easy. Much easier than I though it'd be, despite the amount of underbody stuff that has to come off first.
> New Coil Packs and Heat Shields - Came off the back of an Oil Service which included plugs from my Indy, when they noted that a couple were cracked. Aside from the OSR coil which slightly fouls the exhaust on its way out, this was another job much easier than I thought. Particularly as the new packs were of a revised design that have different fittings, so an 8mm ratchet spanner can be used to bolt up instead of trying to get a Hex drive in there.
> Battery (Twice) 5 Minutes spannering, max. Short drive to reset PASM, PSM, Windows, etc. Sorted.
> Underbody Air Con Pipe Seals - This defeated me. I bought the 2 seals (£12 !) after the system stopped working, and watched a couple of Friends Green Porsche's excellent 'Prep' videos where the seals were noted as a weak point. I knew my condensers were OK as they'd been changed by the previous owner, so I figured changing the seals would be an easy win. Nope. No amount of wrenching (or swearing) was going to budge the union unless it broke first, so I left it until this years Minor service at my Indy. Turns out it was seized and had to be cut off and replaced entirely, but at least the air con works a treat now (It was £180 including the regas for that. Not bad considering the union alone was £90 from Porsche)
>Rear ARB Drop Links - The OSR link was 'noted' on last year's MOT so I replaced both to be sure. £55 for the parts and just over 90 minutes work.
Not sure what jobs lay in the future, but I have to part ways with her soon due to an impending house build / move and we need the funds. She's just sailed through this year's MOT, so she won't want for anything for a new owner (wheel refurb aside as they could use it, but that's the only cosmetic concern).
Basically, don't be afraid; roll up your sleeves and get in there.
Edited by STiG911 on Friday 14th October 10:54
STiG911 said:
Agree with all the like-minded spanner wielders on here. I've owned my 997 nearly 12 years and done a fair few jobs myself, none of which were particularly taxing once I'd ensured I'd read up properly and got the right tools together (Working on Missus '91 Mini Cabriolet has helped me amass quite the toolset, lol)
> Brake Discs and Pads all round- This was a relative breeze, not withstanding the punch pin on the NSF Calliper that didn't want to budge initially. (Refit each pin with a dab - a DAB - of copper grease)
> Front bumper removal, condenser check (they were fine) install grills behind each air inlet - Dead easy. Much easier than I though it'd be, despite the amount of underbody stuff that has to come off first.
> New Coil Packs and Heat Shields - Came off the back of an Oil Service which included plugs from my Indy, when they noted that a couple were cracked. Aside from the OSR coil which slightly fouls the exhaust on its way out, this was another job much easier than I thought. Particularly as the new packs were of a revised design that have different fittings, so an 8mm ratchet spanner can be used to bolt up instead of trying to get a Hex drive in there.
> Battery (Twice) 5 Minutes spannering, max. Short drive to reset PASM, PSM, Windows, etc. Sorted.
> Underbody Air Con Pipe Seals - This defeated me. I bought the 2 seals (£12 !) after the system stopped working, and watched a couple of Friends Green Porsche's excellent 'Prep' videos where the seals were noted as a weak point. I knew my condensers were OK as they'd been changed by the previous owner, so I figured changing the seals would be an easy win. Nope. No amount of wrenching (or swearing) was going to budge the union unless it broke first, so I left it until this years Minor service at my Indy. Turns out it was seized and had to be cut off and replaced entirely, but at least the air con works a treat now (It was £180 including the regas for that. Not bad considering the union alone was £90 from Porsche)
>Rear ARB Drop Links - The OSR link was 'noted' on last year's MOT so I replaced both to be sure. £55 for the parts and just over 90 minutes work.
Not sure what jobs lay in the future, but I have to part ways with her soon due to an impending house build / move and we need the funds. She's just sailed through this year's MOT, so she won't want for anything for a new owner (wheel refurb aside as they could use it, but that's the only cosmetic concern).
Basically, don't be afraid; roll up your sleeves and get in there.
Exactly.> Brake Discs and Pads all round- This was a relative breeze, not withstanding the punch pin on the NSF Calliper that didn't want to budge initially. (Refit each pin with a dab - a DAB - of copper grease)
> Front bumper removal, condenser check (they were fine) install grills behind each air inlet - Dead easy. Much easier than I though it'd be, despite the amount of underbody stuff that has to come off first.
> New Coil Packs and Heat Shields - Came off the back of an Oil Service which included plugs from my Indy, when they noted that a couple were cracked. Aside from the OSR coil which slightly fouls the exhaust on its way out, this was another job much easier than I thought. Particularly as the new packs were of a revised design that have different fittings, so an 8mm ratchet spanner can be used to bolt up instead of trying to get a Hex drive in there.
> Battery (Twice) 5 Minutes spannering, max. Short drive to reset PASM, PSM, Windows, etc. Sorted.
> Underbody Air Con Pipe Seals - This defeated me. I bought the 2 seals (£12 !) after the system stopped working, and watched a couple of Friends Green Porsche's excellent 'Prep' videos where the seals were noted as a weak point. I knew my condensers were OK as they'd been changed by the previous owner, so I figured changing the seals would be an easy win. Nope. No amount of wrenching (or swearing) was going to budge the union unless it broke first, so I left it until this years Minor service at my Indy. Turns out it was seized and had to be cut off and replaced entirely, but at least the air con works a treat now (It was £180 including the regas for that. Not bad considering the union alone was £90 from Porsche)
>Rear ARB Drop Links - The OSR link was 'noted' on last year's MOT so I replaced both to be sure. £55 for the parts and just over 90 minutes work.
Not sure what jobs lay in the future, but I have to part ways with her soon due to an impending house build / move and we need the funds. She's just sailed through this year's MOT, so she won't want for anything for a new owner (wheel refurb aside as they could use it, but that's the only cosmetic concern).
Basically, don't be afraid; roll up your sleeves and get in there.
Edited by STiG911 on Friday 14th October 10:54
Depends on how handy you are .
That’s the rub ,
Some on here are all into stamps , others like the poster above are a roll your sleeves up and get stuck in kinds guy ,
They are ( pork ) incredibly well in a Germanic kinda way well thought out for servicing .
You can do a lot of spanner ing yourself.
Mr Google + you tube are your friends .
I had mine 6 months and done the AC condensers ( front bumper off ) a doodle , flushed the brake fluid and changed the g box oil .Fixed the hood fit .Taken the door card off to fix a rattle , cleared all the drains , checked the poly belt .
Removed the pads and cleaned up the brakes to increase inner calliper pressure etc etc .
Had all the wheel arch linings out to inspect the cooling pipe connections and waxoiled them .Cleaned and waxoiled up the suspension top mounts and springs .
Boxster 987.2 s are a joy to get your hands dirty on .
It lives in a dehumidified garage btw .
Slippydiff said:
But if you want something that handles with less aplomb, provides more of a driving challenge and requires some thought to pedal quickly down your favourite A or B road, AND will reward you in a way NO Cayman will, then a 996 would be a better choice.
But what if you want a super stable sports car and don't need a driving challenge that requires some thought just to stop it going backwards through a hedge, and worse when you open the garage door you see an ugly lump of a 996 sitting there.Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff