Underseal that vulnerable back end!?
Discussion
Lurking finally got me into trouble...
I have a new member of the family to look after now, piccys to follow as she is in the dealership being treated to a full once over, 2017 Vantage S V8. Oooh!
Please could you help with a few questions regarding the ACF-50 underside protection fluid that can be applied to protect that chassis at the back end.
At a £180 it seems like a reasonable thing to do, is it?
Are there better alternatives?
I am asking as she is fully wrapped already and I want to make sure she looks good all round for a nunnery of years to come.
Thoughts please
I have a new member of the family to look after now, piccys to follow as she is in the dealership being treated to a full once over, 2017 Vantage S V8. Oooh!
Please could you help with a few questions regarding the ACF-50 underside protection fluid that can be applied to protect that chassis at the back end.
At a £180 it seems like a reasonable thing to do, is it?
Are there better alternatives?
I am asking as she is fully wrapped already and I want to make sure she looks good all round for a nunnery of years to come.
Thoughts please
When I bought an aerosol of ACF 50, it cost about £15.
An extra £165 to squirt it, seems quite a good earner.
The only proper solution, is for the subframe to be removed, then there is a procedure involving I think, galvanizing or powder coating.
However, if you plan to use the car reasonably lightly, it will be very many years before any problems occur.
Even when it looks rusty, it only tends to be surface corrosion, not about to break apart.
Enjoy your new car. They are wonderful.
Acf 50 us a brilliant protector against rust however its mot really a permanent solution. Lots of motorcyclists spray their bikes with it in readiness for winter but it's the sort of product that needs used annually. I wouldn't rely on it as a permanent fix.
Powder coating or similar is a more permanent solution
Powder coating or similar is a more permanent solution
The only way of properly protecting the rear subframe is to remove, prime, and powdercoat.
Also as the frame is tubular the inside needs to be protected.
I removed mine a couple of years ago, I found loads of other little faults which you wouldn't notice whilst driving but all were repaired.
Read my PH topic on it.
Also as the frame is tubular the inside needs to be protected.
I removed mine a couple of years ago, I found loads of other little faults which you wouldn't notice whilst driving but all were repaired.
Read my PH topic on it.
Jon39 said:
When I bought an aerosol of ACF 50, it cost about £15.
An extra £165 to squirt it, seems quite a good earner.
The only proper solution, is for the subframe to be removed, then there is a procedure involving I think, galvanizing or powder coating.
However, if you plan to use the car reasonably lightly, it will be very many years before any problems occur.
Even when it looks rusty, it only tends to be surface corrosion, not about to break apart.
Enjoy your new car. They are wonderful.
Jon39 said:
When I bought an aerosol of ACF 50, it cost about £15.
An extra £165 to squirt it, seems quite a good earner.
The only proper solution, is for the subframe to be removed, then there is a procedure involving I think, galvanizing or powder coating.
However, if you plan to use the car reasonably lightly, it will be very many years before any problems occur.
Even when it looks rusty, it only tends to be surface corrosion, not about to break apart.
Enjoy your new car. They are wonderful.
Longy00000 said:
Acf 50 us a brilliant protector against rust however its mot really a permanent solution. Lots of motorcyclists spray their bikes with it in readiness for winter but it's the sort of product that needs used annually. I wouldn't rely on it as a permanent fix.
Powder coating or similar is a more permanent solution
Thanks Longy but now much world that cost? Powder coating or similar is a more permanent solution
paulrog1 said:
The only way of properly protecting the rear subframe is to remove, prime, and powdercoat.
Also as the frame is tubular the inside needs to be protected.
I removed mine a couple of years ago, I found loads of other little faults which you wouldn't notice whilst driving but all were repaired.
Read my PH topic on it.
Sorry Paulrog1 but I am new to this wonderful resource and don't know where to find your expert musings? Also as the frame is tubular the inside needs to be protected.
I removed mine a couple of years ago, I found loads of other little faults which you wouldn't notice whilst driving but all were repaired.
Read my PH topic on it.
Swervym said:
Jon39 said:
When I bought an aerosol of ACF 50, it cost about £15.
An extra £165 to squirt it, seems quite a good earner.
The only proper solution, is for the subframe to be removed, then there is a procedure involving I think, galvanizing or powder coating.
However, if you plan to use the car reasonably lightly, it will be very many years before any problems occur.
Even when it looks rusty, it only tends to be surface corrosion, not about to break apart.
Enjoy your new car. They are wonderful.
I just had ACF 50 applied whilst mine was getting its larger 4-year service at supplying garage HWM. They did a thorough job, though, undertray and wheels off, etc. I can really recommend them.
You can see from these photos (before it was applied) that the steel parts lightly surfaces corrode under the tray. All VH examples which actually get used do that, and nothing to worry about. It's largely overengineered and of no concern at all. But anything to help me mentally use the car all year round is good in my book.
Yes, you can buy the stuff cheaper. Of course you can. But to do it properly you need a ramp and find a garage willing to do this messy job. I originally phoned around several places to where I am locally and all said "no", including those who claimed to do this stuff. I mentioned it in passing to HWM before taking it for the service, and they saved the day.
You can see from these photos (before it was applied) that the steel parts lightly surfaces corrode under the tray. All VH examples which actually get used do that, and nothing to worry about. It's largely overengineered and of no concern at all. But anything to help me mentally use the car all year round is good in my book.
Yes, you can buy the stuff cheaper. Of course you can. But to do it properly you need a ramp and find a garage willing to do this messy job. I originally phoned around several places to where I am locally and all said "no", including those who claimed to do this stuff. I mentioned it in passing to HWM before taking it for the service, and they saved the day.
Swervym said:
Sorry Paulrog1 but I am new to this wonderful resource and don't know where to find your expert musings?
Enjoy - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Just starting this up again as my 2014 Vanquish currently has a very clean underside and I'm interested in protecting it as well as reasonably possible for as long as possible.
Some people say it should be treated, others say not. One suggested it might not be a good idea and they had removed under seal for a few people at great cost recently, another suggested clear wax because black underseal might devalue the car. But they don't specifically know about Astons. Is there an official Aston owner's view?
Assuming it's 'yes', like the OP I've been quoted £180 for ACF-50 - was it HWM by any chance? But both that and Lanogard only last a year which seems entirely pointless to me. Dinotrol and Bilt Hamber are mentioned - any reason not to use them?
Some people say it should be treated, others say not. One suggested it might not be a good idea and they had removed under seal for a few people at great cost recently, another suggested clear wax because black underseal might devalue the car. But they don't specifically know about Astons. Is there an official Aston owner's view?
Assuming it's 'yes', like the OP I've been quoted £180 for ACF-50 - was it HWM by any chance? But both that and Lanogard only last a year which seems entirely pointless to me. Dinotrol and Bilt Hamber are mentioned - any reason not to use them?
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