Discussion
Eddie, had same prob last week.
Bled the radiator i had quite a bit of air come out, leave the engine to run until the fans cut in!
turn the car off, and leave it to cool.
then top water up to max mark (when cold).
This has completely fixed my car.
Also remember although the temp gauge is reading say 105 you will find its only actually running at 95 (if you plug a laptop into it, you will see true temp)
mine was going beyond 110 and not coming back down!
cheers
dan
Bled the radiator i had quite a bit of air come out, leave the engine to run until the fans cut in!
turn the car off, and leave it to cool.
then top water up to max mark (when cold).
This has completely fixed my car.
Also remember although the temp gauge is reading say 105 you will find its only actually running at 95 (if you plug a laptop into it, you will see true temp)
mine was going beyond 110 and not coming back down!
cheers
dan
Eddie - mine was doing this the other week - in fact getting above 110 easily and even had steam coming out of the bonnet. New undercrackers were required at that point.
Got the system all checked out - was thankful to hear that the gauge was reading 10deg higher than was actually the case, and all ok.....until the clutch went, but that's another story.
p.s. loving the orange
Got the system all checked out - was thankful to hear that the gauge was reading 10deg higher than was actually the case, and all ok.....until the clutch went, but that's another story.
p.s. loving the orange
Eddie,
it takes ages to get all the air out the system, I take it the rad came out for the spray job. Joolz would cycle the car through hot to complete cold 6 times to get the air out, at least I read that on here somewhere.
Just drive the car and the mornig after check the water level again (like you already do right
)
>> Edited by Extra 300 Driver on Tuesday 16th August 22:21
it takes ages to get all the air out the system, I take it the rad came out for the spray job. Joolz would cycle the car through hot to complete cold 6 times to get the air out, at least I read that on here somewhere.
Just drive the car and the mornig after check the water level again (like you already do right
) >> Edited by Extra 300 Driver on Tuesday 16th August 22:21
Hi Guys, I have the exact same problem. Temperature around 80-90 when driving and jumps up to 100-105 in traffic jam (I live in London). In traffic jam the temperature gauge generally goes to 100-105 then comes back down to 95, then back up to 100-105, etc.
Before I do anything I just wanna double check. Does 'bleeding' the radiator refer to opening the lid where I pour in the water/coolant and then starting the engine ? Is there more to it ?
Many thanks,
Pete
Before I do anything I just wanna double check. Does 'bleeding' the radiator refer to opening the lid where I pour in the water/coolant and then starting the engine ? Is there more to it ?
Many thanks,
Pete
peter_melichar said:
Hi Guys, I have the exact same problem. Temperature around 80-90 when driving and jumps up to 100-105 in traffic jam (I live in London). In traffic jam the temperature gauge generally goes to 100-105 then comes back down to 95, then back up to 100-105, etc.
Before I do anything I just wanna double check. Does 'bleeding' the radiator refer to opening the lid where I pour in the water/coolant and then starting the engine ? Is there more to it ?
Many thanks,
Pete
That sounds normal to me, maybe a little hot but nothing to worry about.
To get the air out the system warm the car up, get the fans to kick in, then re check the water level by removing the cap and filling to the mark.
To do a good job you want to do this about 6 times, or every time you start the car.
peter_melichar said:
Before I do anything I just wanna double check. Does 'bleeding' the radiator refer to opening the lid where I pour in the water/coolant and then starting the engine ? Is there more to it ?
Many thanks,
Pete
Theres a brass nut on the radiator. Undo that. There should be no air in.
Nice profile pic.mmmmmm (Car nor bad too

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