Rust preventative maintenance on used cars
Discussion
Does anyone go through the effort of paying for, or DIY'ing rust prevention on a used buy? I don't mean anything rare or exotic as I'd imagine it's not even a question in that case. I mean a workhorse/runaround/daily driver, but relatively modern and clean at time of purchase?
My previous car I had it up on my ramps and went through the effort of grinding all visible rust off (mostly the subframes), Kurust applied twice, then 2 coats of Hammerite. Then cavity wax down the frame rails, in the subframe etc etc. It stayed terminal rust free for 4 years after that (developed some surface rust though). I also waxoiled the arches after removing the liners and scraping out a small gardens worth of mud, sticks and leaves. I never got the time to redo the arches though and 4 years later they started to rust out behind the liner and also on the bumper mounts, an area I had never treated.
Since you can just pay someone to do it for you and underseal the entire car to save you doing what is an extremely dirty and messy job, do you bother to do so?
I've heard on MX5 forums it's quite common practice and will only set you back 200-300 notes for a professional underseal.
I'd also be curious to know just how damaging living near the sea is to a car? I'm in the Midlands so never had to deal with that.
My previous car I had it up on my ramps and went through the effort of grinding all visible rust off (mostly the subframes), Kurust applied twice, then 2 coats of Hammerite. Then cavity wax down the frame rails, in the subframe etc etc. It stayed terminal rust free for 4 years after that (developed some surface rust though). I also waxoiled the arches after removing the liners and scraping out a small gardens worth of mud, sticks and leaves. I never got the time to redo the arches though and 4 years later they started to rust out behind the liner and also on the bumper mounts, an area I had never treated.
Since you can just pay someone to do it for you and underseal the entire car to save you doing what is an extremely dirty and messy job, do you bother to do so?
I've heard on MX5 forums it's quite common practice and will only set you back 200-300 notes for a professional underseal.
I'd also be curious to know just how damaging living near the sea is to a car? I'm in the Midlands so never had to deal with that.
Mercky said:
Kurust is a waste of time and money. It does not cure rust, it claims to provide a stable surface for painting but rusting will continue underneath. Far better to saturate rusted areas with an oil based product on my view.
Yea I was never very convinced by it. Waxoyl or 'Hammerite with added waxoyl' + Dinitrol works wonders however. Probably better off grinding the rust, WD40 the area, degrease, Hammerite then waxoyl on topi dont see any of the paid services that would appeal to me , stuff like jet washing in the morning and applying the stuff in the afternoon after a quick toot with the airline
i do mine peak summer after a couple of weeks of dry weather, i put the hours in scraping and picking at rust and removing trims etc
i do mine peak summer after a couple of weeks of dry weather, i put the hours in scraping and picking at rust and removing trims etc
I'm not averse to DIY but underseal is a job I've paid for. Simply because I know I wouldn't do as thorough a job as someone who has a process, a steam cleaner and a ramp.
Definitely cost a lot more than £2-300, I don't recall the precise figure but I had South West Rust Proofing do the S2000 (Honda seemed to apply Lancia rustproofing techniques to them, and it's a keeper). However... They remove liners etc to get proper access, they steam clean, wire brush and so forth before the dinitrol gets added inside and out. I wouldn't have been able to do that.
I've seen photos of some shocking jobs, where people have got a "pro" to do it and they have just slathered it on everywhere including driveshaft and diff.
Definitely cost a lot more than £2-300, I don't recall the precise figure but I had South West Rust Proofing do the S2000 (Honda seemed to apply Lancia rustproofing techniques to them, and it's a keeper). However... They remove liners etc to get proper access, they steam clean, wire brush and so forth before the dinitrol gets added inside and out. I wouldn't have been able to do that.
I've seen photos of some shocking jobs, where people have got a "pro" to do it and they have just slathered it on everywhere including driveshaft and diff.
Do it to every car i buy (only used Japanese built cars), the full job, Bilt Hambers excellent aerosol probes for cavities inside doors etc, ladder chassis and subframes derusted treatedas much as possible then with a rust converter followed by painting, and before the following winter sets in the chassis gets greased.
Then to finish off its the first of its annual and sometimes twice a year whole underbody sprayings with ACF50 takes place, not forgetting the zinc paint spraying of the exposed sections of exhaust system which you shoudl do before spraying will oil based product.
Had a large 4x4 professionaly treated 15 years ago, cost £400 then, i do a better job than they did, but properly rustproofing a ladder chassis 4x4 is a daunting task unless new.
Doing the job well you won't get any change out of £200 in materials if you have a ladder chassised vehicle, much cheaper for a normal underbody car.
Can't praise those BH cavity wax aerosols and probes enough, not had one block up yet in use, if you have air pressure you could use those same probes to squirt ACF50 or similar inside the cavities.
The most important thing is to buy the right car in the first place, i avoid all cars that have lived in Sotland and the far north because of the increased salting of the roads further north, you can pretty well tell from the MOT history when comparing used cars which have lived in Scotland by the mentions of corrosion.
Then to finish off its the first of its annual and sometimes twice a year whole underbody sprayings with ACF50 takes place, not forgetting the zinc paint spraying of the exposed sections of exhaust system which you shoudl do before spraying will oil based product.
Had a large 4x4 professionaly treated 15 years ago, cost £400 then, i do a better job than they did, but properly rustproofing a ladder chassis 4x4 is a daunting task unless new.
Doing the job well you won't get any change out of £200 in materials if you have a ladder chassised vehicle, much cheaper for a normal underbody car.
Can't praise those BH cavity wax aerosols and probes enough, not had one block up yet in use, if you have air pressure you could use those same probes to squirt ACF50 or similar inside the cavities.
The most important thing is to buy the right car in the first place, i avoid all cars that have lived in Sotland and the far north because of the increased salting of the roads further north, you can pretty well tell from the MOT history when comparing used cars which have lived in Scotland by the mentions of corrosion.
Edited by Smint on Sunday 13th November 09:29
Did my pickup with Dinitrol when I got it. I was lucky, it was very clean at 2 years old. The bits I haven't done with the dinitrol have had Fluid Film sprayed on them - it's similar to Lanoguard, but cheaper.
I've had to top up bits and pieces where it gets battered from debris off the tyres.
I've had to top up bits and pieces where it gets battered from debris off the tyres.
If you're buying a car with the aim to look after it & keep long term, it's absolutely still worth doing IMO.
There is a bit of a common narrative that cars rusting to death is now a thing of the past, but some of the stuff you see on social media is shocking - 2016 Mazda's with fist-sized rust holes in subframes
, Range Rovers needing brake pipes replacing at 4 yrs old, 7 year old Kia's basically falling apart etc.
It feels like the manufacturers have determined that money could be saved from the quality of steel/rust prevention process during manufacture, while still giving what they deem as acceptable performance while the car remains under the anti corrosion warranty, & have cut it to the bone.
Problem with paying someone to do it is it is a pretty awful/messy job as you say, & do you trust whoever is doing it to not miss a bit? When it comes to addressing & preventing rust, the difference between a 95% & 100% good job is a big one. Sods law, the one place they miss with the cavity wax injection is the awkward place right above the rear jacking point where the rust is most likely to start/be terminal anyway.
There is a bit of a common narrative that cars rusting to death is now a thing of the past, but some of the stuff you see on social media is shocking - 2016 Mazda's with fist-sized rust holes in subframes
, Range Rovers needing brake pipes replacing at 4 yrs old, 7 year old Kia's basically falling apart etc.It feels like the manufacturers have determined that money could be saved from the quality of steel/rust prevention process during manufacture, while still giving what they deem as acceptable performance while the car remains under the anti corrosion warranty, & have cut it to the bone.
Problem with paying someone to do it is it is a pretty awful/messy job as you say, & do you trust whoever is doing it to not miss a bit? When it comes to addressing & preventing rust, the difference between a 95% & 100% good job is a big one. Sods law, the one place they miss with the cavity wax injection is the awkward place right above the rear jacking point where the rust is most likely to start/be terminal anyway.
steveo3002 said:
i dont see any of the paid services that would appeal to me , stuff like jet washing in the morning and applying the stuff in the afternoon after a quick toot with the airline
i do mine peak summer after a couple of weeks of dry weather, i put the hours in scraping and picking at rust and removing trims etc
This place near me (never used it, but tempted) seems ok - £540 for a GT3 Porsche, including valet, takes 3-4 days and much of that is spent in dehumidified storage to allow it to properly dry out.i do mine peak summer after a couple of weeks of dry weather, i put the hours in scraping and picking at rust and removing trims etc
Personally, on car restos I’ve always used Bilt Hamber. In my case I’ve decided I’m keeping my UP GTi forever (have other fun cars) so may well be using them (I have no connection with them).
https://www.cumbriacarstorage.co.uk/corrosion_prot...
DaveCWK said:
If you're buying a car with the aim to look after it & keep long term, it's absolutely still worth doing IMO.
There is a bit of a common narrative that cars rusting to death is now a thing of the past, but some of the stuff you see on social media is shocking - 2016 Mazda's with fist-sized rust holes in subframes, Range Rovers needing brake pipes replacing at 4 yrs old, 7 year old Kia's basically falling apart etc.
It feels like the manufacturers have determined that money could be saved from the quality of steel/rust prevention process during manufacture, while still giving what they deem as acceptable performance while the car remains under the anti corrosion warranty, & have cut it to the bone.
Problem with paying someone to do it is it is a pretty awful/messy job as you say, & do you trust whoever is doing it to not miss a bit? When it comes to addressing & preventing rust, the difference between a 95% & 100% good job is a big one. Sods law, the one place they miss with the cavity wax injection is the awkward place right above the rear jacking point where the rust is most likely to start/be terminal anyway.
Best bet would be to go to the recommended place by the owners club of the car you have. A specialist who knows the car inside and out, rather than a generic undersealer who does all carsThere is a bit of a common narrative that cars rusting to death is now a thing of the past, but some of the stuff you see on social media is shocking - 2016 Mazda's with fist-sized rust holes in subframes
, Range Rovers needing brake pipes replacing at 4 yrs old, 7 year old Kia's basically falling apart etc.It feels like the manufacturers have determined that money could be saved from the quality of steel/rust prevention process during manufacture, while still giving what they deem as acceptable performance while the car remains under the anti corrosion warranty, & have cut it to the bone.
Problem with paying someone to do it is it is a pretty awful/messy job as you say, & do you trust whoever is doing it to not miss a bit? When it comes to addressing & preventing rust, the difference between a 95% & 100% good job is a big one. Sods law, the one place they miss with the cavity wax injection is the awkward place right above the rear jacking point where the rust is most likely to start/be terminal anyway.
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