Brake caliper refurb recommendations
Discussion
Has anyone got any recommendations for a brake caliper service company? I've googled and seen there are a few around but would be interested in what people have found with them in terms of quality of work and speediness.
I need a fast turnaround as I need to get the car back into service quickly, hence this won't be the time to order a service kit and try that out
I'm in the Beds/Cambs area so something in that vicinity could make life easier as I could drop them off and collect.
They're two-pot opposing piston calipers, one showing early signs of seizure (mild uneven pad wear) and the other is clearly seized solid (outboard pad basically new, 100% wear on the inboard pad, plus pushing one piston in doesn't make the suspect piston move out).
I'll also need one of the mounting holes helicoiled because apparently after replacing pads in a clearly fooked caliper the correct action is to refit the seized caliper by airgunning the bolt in cross threaded. Done by a main dealer servicing according to the manufacturer's own app! (Previous owner so I doubt I'd have any chance of getting them to fix it, plus it's miles away, and it seems likely the "wasn't us, prove otherwise" shutters would come down)
It's a fairly uncommon model so unfortunately new calipers are not easily available (and I am expecting will cost similar amounts to the medical bills for removing the air impact from the rectum of the previous mechanic if I ever meet him).
Finally, does anyone have any tips to plug up banjo fittings for a week or two without losing any fluid?
I need a fast turnaround as I need to get the car back into service quickly, hence this won't be the time to order a service kit and try that out
I'm in the Beds/Cambs area so something in that vicinity could make life easier as I could drop them off and collect.
They're two-pot opposing piston calipers, one showing early signs of seizure (mild uneven pad wear) and the other is clearly seized solid (outboard pad basically new, 100% wear on the inboard pad, plus pushing one piston in doesn't make the suspect piston move out).
I'll also need one of the mounting holes helicoiled because apparently after replacing pads in a clearly fooked caliper the correct action is to refit the seized caliper by airgunning the bolt in cross threaded. Done by a main dealer servicing according to the manufacturer's own app! (Previous owner so I doubt I'd have any chance of getting them to fix it, plus it's miles away, and it seems likely the "wasn't us, prove otherwise" shutters would come down)
It's a fairly uncommon model so unfortunately new calipers are not easily available (and I am expecting will cost similar amounts to the medical bills for removing the air impact from the rectum of the previous mechanic if I ever meet him).
Finally, does anyone have any tips to plug up banjo fittings for a week or two without losing any fluid?
Amazingly, the first specialist I called has a pair of rear calipers in stock, so I have ordered them plus new bolts, banjo bolts, washers etc... Still cheaper than a monthly payment on a new car 
I'll hang on to the old ones and get a service kit one day. Thanks for the tip on Big Redd.
I'll hang on to the old ones and get a service kit one day. Thanks for the tip on Big Redd.
Nice one.
Top tip to stop fluid leaking from disconnected lines (and especially handy if you have unclampable braided teflon ones); depress and hold the brake pedal down to take up the free-play and add a little pressure. This closes the intake port in the master cylinder and, apart from an initial spurt when opening a union, there will be no further leakage.
An accelerator depressor tool is best, or use a suitable length of timber, just ensure that it can't drop down off the front edge of the seat when you subsequently release the pressure in the system.
You can thank me later!
Top tip to stop fluid leaking from disconnected lines (and especially handy if you have unclampable braided teflon ones); depress and hold the brake pedal down to take up the free-play and add a little pressure. This closes the intake port in the master cylinder and, apart from an initial spurt when opening a union, there will be no further leakage.
An accelerator depressor tool is best, or use a suitable length of timber, just ensure that it can't drop down off the front edge of the seat when you subsequently release the pressure in the system.
You can thank me later!
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