Winter projects
Discussion
I have a crack in my rear near side ARB bracket, is it best to just cut it off a weld in a piece of flat bar ?, or any other suggestions
Second item is while the suspension arm is off for the above I thought I would replace the rubber fuel pipes, they look ok but just as a precaution, is 8mm Gates Barricade still the preferred hose ?, looking through the circuit I estimate about 1ft from pump to filter, another 1ft from filter to copper pipe, 2ft in the engine bay to the fuel rail, for the return another 2ft to the copper pipe in the engine bay then maybe another 2 ft at the back to the tank, so approx 8ft total or 3m as it seems to be sold by the metre, now how do you access the ones in the engine bay, remove the plenum maybe?, also retiring to the tank, do I need to remove the tank to change this piece ??
Lastly what size is the pipe Fromm the tank to the copper bridge, I measure the bridge at 13mm but doing a search suggests 15mm hose ?
Any hints or tips always welcome to make what looks a bit of a pain any easier.
Second item is while the suspension arm is off for the above I thought I would replace the rubber fuel pipes, they look ok but just as a precaution, is 8mm Gates Barricade still the preferred hose ?, looking through the circuit I estimate about 1ft from pump to filter, another 1ft from filter to copper pipe, 2ft in the engine bay to the fuel rail, for the return another 2ft to the copper pipe in the engine bay then maybe another 2 ft at the back to the tank, so approx 8ft total or 3m as it seems to be sold by the metre, now how do you access the ones in the engine bay, remove the plenum maybe?, also retiring to the tank, do I need to remove the tank to change this piece ??
Lastly what size is the pipe Fromm the tank to the copper bridge, I measure the bridge at 13mm but doing a search suggests 15mm hose ?
Any hints or tips always welcome to make what looks a bit of a pain any easier.
12 mm from tank, there are 2 grades of Gates, I think one is low pressure which you can use on the returns.
You can change the return at the tank by removing the top bolts of the tank straps and pulling the tank slightly back at the top [ remove the filler neck first ]
Edited by Aussie John on Sunday 27th November 19:05
You can buy new ones. The shape is slightly different which gives it more strength.
https://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/car-parts/suspens...
https://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/car-parts/suspens...
That happened to me many moons ago on a '95 Chimaera. It's a known weak point, later models have a stronger bracket:
If you're taking the lower arm off, I'd suggest getting somebody to replace it, perhaps it could be homemade, the Racetech one certainly looks it. TVR parts (Racing Green) say that theirs are not 'currently available.'
ETA: You could remove the rear anti-rollbar completely and run without it. I did this for a while on my last Chimaera (after reading on here that others did) while I was having it powder coated and there wasn't much noticeable difference (not that I'm a track day warrior...)
If you're taking the lower arm off, I'd suggest getting somebody to replace it, perhaps it could be homemade, the Racetech one certainly looks it. TVR parts (Racing Green) say that theirs are not 'currently available.'
ETA: You could remove the rear anti-rollbar completely and run without it. I did this for a while on my last Chimaera (after reading on here that others did) while I was having it powder coated and there wasn't much noticeable difference (not that I'm a track day warrior...)
Edited by sixor8 on Sunday 27th November 22:00
I'd remove the rear Arb as it does nothing anyway, problem solved.
lots of threads about it.
As for hose I'd pick this.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/ethanol-proof-fuel-h...
Be very wary of counterfeit stuff on ebay, it's not worth the risk.
lots of threads about it.
As for hose I'd pick this.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/ethanol-proof-fuel-h...
Be very wary of counterfeit stuff on ebay, it's not worth the risk.
As Belle says, Car Builders solutions for ethanol resistant fuel hose a good firm to deal with.
Also unless you are into track days or competition the rear AR bar will have little effect on normal driving I could not tell any difference.
stronger brackets are not that difficult to make, I have replaced mine as both had cracked.
Also unless you are into track days or competition the rear AR bar will have little effect on normal driving I could not tell any difference.
stronger brackets are not that difficult to make, I have replaced mine as both had cracked.
Edited by Loubaruch on Monday 28th November 10:05
I have been driving all year with the ARB removed, and as several have mentioned I felt no difference, I just thought maybe the MOT guy might spot it ?
The race tech one would be around £75 delivered, seems a bit steep for what it is, what your thoughts on a piece of 1/4 inch flat bar ??
The race tech one would be around £75 delivered, seems a bit steep for what it is, what your thoughts on a piece of 1/4 inch flat bar ??
Well, I had a one weld repaired in 2001 and nothing was said at the MoT test.
I asked about the MoT when mine was off in 2018 though and I was advised to refit it, which I did. The rear ARB also clamps onto 2 plates using bushes on the chassis with threaded sections to apply nuts onto to. I can't remember if this plate is removeable or welded on.
It would be obvious something is missing otherwise, if the tester spots it. Many cars have no rear ARBs so perhaps they wouldn't expect one?
I asked about the MoT when mine was off in 2018 though and I was advised to refit it, which I did. The rear ARB also clamps onto 2 plates using bushes on the chassis with threaded sections to apply nuts onto to. I can't remember if this plate is removeable or welded on.
It would be obvious something is missing otherwise, if the tester spots it. Many cars have no rear ARBs so perhaps they wouldn't expect one?
sixor8 said:
Well, I had a one weld repaired in 2001 and nothing was said at the MoT test.
I asked about the MoT when mine was off in 2018 though and I was advised to refit it, which I did. The rear ARB also clamps onto 2 plates using bushes on the chassis with threaded sections to apply nuts onto to. I can't remember if this plate is removeable or welded on.
It would be obvious something is missing otherwise, if the tester spots it. Many cars have no rear ARBs so perhaps they wouldn't expect one?
It's not the lack of an ARB, it's the unemployed brackets. Been discussed on here before. It's a moot point as some mainstream cars can have unemployed brackets... I asked about the MoT when mine was off in 2018 though and I was advised to refit it, which I did. The rear ARB also clamps onto 2 plates using bushes on the chassis with threaded sections to apply nuts onto to. I can't remember if this plate is removeable or welded on.
It would be obvious something is missing otherwise, if the tester spots it. Many cars have no rear ARBs so perhaps they wouldn't expect one?
Probably would be less of a problem if there were no witness marks of it ever having had one, so out with the paint brush
Likewise the welded repairs, the original wishbone is fabricated then painted, so aim for that same 'factory' appearance.
I'm sure you can see the intention of the rules... you can't have cars running around with amateurishly cut'n'shut arms, or their temper altered by intense heating. A good examiner will be prepared to listen, but better to not give him a hook in the first place.
I had my fuel pump & fuel line replaced at a well known TVR dealer. MOT the next week & the tester said you have drop links & bolts but no anti roll bar.
The car did not fail its MOT. If all the bolts had been removed he would not have noticed.
Quick phone call & the reply was we wondered who's anti roll bar was left on the floor.
I did not notice any difference in driving & heard no rattling loose bolts.
Lick of paint & re fitted. These things happen.
The car did not fail its MOT. If all the bolts had been removed he would not have noticed.
Quick phone call & the reply was we wondered who's anti roll bar was left on the floor.
I did not notice any difference in driving & heard no rattling loose bolts.
Lick of paint & re fitted. These things happen.
Early Griffs had no rear ARB fitted, but some 'spirited' driving by journos and early owners led to them quickly fitting one.
By the time the Chimaera was in production in 1993, I expect they came as standard. The fact it was an afterthought is probably why it's a bit too short and thin, and attached quite flimsily to the lower suspension arms, to be completely effective.
By the time the Chimaera was in production in 1993, I expect they came as standard. The fact it was an afterthought is probably why it's a bit too short and thin, and attached quite flimsily to the lower suspension arms, to be completely effective.
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