Planning winter jobs
Discussion
stuartlynn said:
Views on chassis treatment..
Bible advises de-rust then hammerite followed by waxoyl, buy I've read some threads on here that go straight for waxoyl.
Comments?
Pressure wash to get the dirt off (cover all electrics with plastic bags / cling film). Then use a degreaser and pressure wash again, or hose hot water - but WATCH THOSE ELECTRICS. Then wire brush / scraper. This will take a few days to do properly - don't bank on doing a proper job over a weekend. Then degrease. I used white spirit, others may recommend something better. Now you get messy... There are many options, lots of PHers recommend POR15. I didn't use it - it sounds incredibly messy and I'd never used it before. I wasn't prepared to do the job twice so I went with a known quantity - zinc-based primer (rust retarding) followed by hammerite on the suspension / steering components and plasticised stone guard on the lower chassis. Waxoyl everwhere else. So far it's stood up well. Don't hammerite straight to the metal or rust, although it says you can, it won't last long IME.
POR do a product called Marine Clean, which is a bloody good degreaser, and Metal Ready which is a zinc based etch primer.
I did the chassis on my Tasmin in Metal Ready/POR15 about 3 1/2 years ago. The chassis was sandblasted which really helped matters, I found POR needed something to "grab onto". And a word of warning, wear gloves and strimming goggles and a hat, it is the biggest bastard in the world to remove, unlike Hammerite which is just a bit annoying!
I'm now finding that there are little pin pricks of rust starting to show through the POR in places, especially those that have been exposed to the sun, but this is 3 1/2years on, and the car having sat outside all that time.
Pay your money, takes your choice, POR/Hammerite, Waxoyl/Dinitrol everyone has their opinion of personal favourite, and the subjective tests show only minor variations in performance. For what its worth, i'm going to be tarting up all the suspension bits and bobs in Hammerite on the Chim racer.
Regards
Iain
I did the chassis on my Tasmin in Metal Ready/POR15 about 3 1/2 years ago. The chassis was sandblasted which really helped matters, I found POR needed something to "grab onto". And a word of warning, wear gloves and strimming goggles and a hat, it is the biggest bastard in the world to remove, unlike Hammerite which is just a bit annoying!
I'm now finding that there are little pin pricks of rust starting to show through the POR in places, especially those that have been exposed to the sun, but this is 3 1/2years on, and the car having sat outside all that time.
Pay your money, takes your choice, POR/Hammerite, Waxoyl/Dinitrol everyone has their opinion of personal favourite, and the subjective tests show only minor variations in performance. For what its worth, i'm going to be tarting up all the suspension bits and bobs in Hammerite on the Chim racer.
Regards
Iain
Nobody has yet mentioned using rust converting products like this
www.hammerite-automotive.com/rust_remover.htm
Such products work by converting the rust into Iron Phosphate, which, once dry, you then treat with your favourite primer / Hammerite product.
You will still need to remove loose flaking rust, but IMO they work well.
I follow it up with a couple of coats of primer (e.g. Finnigan's No1 - now called No1 Rustbeater I believe), wait a few days then two coats of Hammerite, and finally (after a few days or so) cover with a good coat of Waxoil.
www.hammerite-automotive.com/rust_remover.htm
Such products work by converting the rust into Iron Phosphate, which, once dry, you then treat with your favourite primer / Hammerite product.
You will still need to remove loose flaking rust, but IMO they work well.
I follow it up with a couple of coats of primer (e.g. Finnigan's No1 - now called No1 Rustbeater I believe), wait a few days then two coats of Hammerite, and finally (after a few days or so) cover with a good coat of Waxoil.
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