Winter hibernation

Winter hibernation

Author
Discussion

neildyson

Original Poster:

41 posts

260 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2002
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Hello

I know this has been mentioned before in another thread but I can't seem to find it. I basically want to grab as much info as possible on laying my S2 up for the winter (it's going into a garage).

Someone has told me that you shouldn't leave it with the handbrake on as this can sieze 'on', and I was wondering if anyone has any other 'must do's' to take note of.

Thanks

Podie

46,630 posts

276 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2002
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Don't leave the handbrake on as the drums can rust "on"...

Best bet is to get a copy of Steve Heath's book (aka the bible) - there's some good notes in there about laying up your car.

PeterC

386 posts

270 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2002
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Best advice to avoid problems - don't lay up the car!

You will be surprised how many dry days there are during the winter. Take the opportunity to give the car an outing, warm up the engine and drive a few miles. If its cold, put an extra jumper on.

This will avoid all those problems like, seized brakes, handbrake & clutch, flat spots on tyres and tyre wall cracks, corrosion inside the engine from the oil, electrics that go screwy due to the damp etc, etc.

S2 Giles

2,870 posts

276 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2002
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I second Peter's advice

However, you must leave the roof off too....its just not right otherwise, if your cold, lift the targa back up...but thats it !!!!

I do tend to use mine during the winter and its as much fun as the summer ! by the way it is very very reliable and i put this down to its regular use and regular attention.

bills1

305 posts

271 months

Tuesday 22nd October 2002
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The thought of going through winter without a burn up in the S would be unbearable.
OK you have to be choosy with the weather and the flying jacket is needed but there is just as much fun driving on a dry cold day.
Top down of course.
If the weather has been wet for the previous few days there is nothing better than geting the car fully warmed up,dried out and the battery charged by 20+ mile run.

Use it dont store it!

montegogt

421 posts

264 months

Wednesday 23rd October 2002
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There's nothing better than to see your pride and joy up on axle stands, handbrake off, gently hibernating. The spiders webs and mould growing slowly on the covers and leather all add the the atmoshere. The monthly attempt to start it, to get the oil moving again, and knowing that it won't start next month either. The sound of the rust breaking through the cylinder walls. Ahhhhh, that's what's winter is all about...

keithyboy

1,940 posts

271 months

Wednesday 23rd October 2002
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. . . "OK you have to be choosy with the weather and the flying jacket is needed . . . ". Dont forget the white silk scarf (with the straightened coat hanger inside it) to complete the picture. Goggles optional!!

HarryW

15,151 posts

270 months

Wednesday 23rd October 2002
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So lets get this straight, you're hibernating for the winter and you're looking for someone to keep the car ticking over so to speak or have I got the wrong end of the stick again

Harry

simba

61 posts

275 months

Thursday 24th October 2002
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I gave my V8S a blast for twenty miles or so on one dry day per week all through last winter and I had absolutely no problems whatsoever. Remember the old saying Use it or lose it! Keep it on the road!

neildyson

Original Poster:

41 posts

260 months

Friday 25th October 2002
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Now I am confused !

This is my first winter with a tiv, having only had my S2 for a few months now. I was under the impression it was kind of a 'done thing' to park the car up for the harshest weather and get it back out in spring.

I was thinking of putting in it in the garage and seeing to it every week or two (starting it up etc) to keep it fairly happy. I was planning on taking a sabbatical from road tax and full insurance over wintertime (and use the cash to do a few things to the car). This sounds OK to me, but with the exception that I can't take it on the road (obviously).

So my real question was basically 'what do I need to do to it to keep it alive over winter' if I can't road drive it but can start it regularly etc.

dern

14,055 posts

280 months

Friday 25th October 2002
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I don't understand why you'd park it up. I mean you enjoy driving it over the summer don't you so why shouldn't you enjoy driving it through the winter? The only difference being that you may not take the roof off quite so frequently.

It'll do the car a lot of good assuming you've waxoyled the chassis. Water proofing the hood and fitting new roof seals means you stay dry. The heater works extremely well. Admitedly the wipers aren't great but it only a pain in the worst weather and the lights aren't too bad.

So why do you want to park it up? This isn't supposed to be one of those sanctimonious posts I'm just interested why you wouldn't want to drive your car?

Mark

John Mac

386 posts

264 months

Friday 25th October 2002
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If you do intend to take the vehicle off the road for the winter period and I'm assuming your talking of say November to March I would suggest you do the following which can only be considered as "precautions".
1. Drive the car into the Garage (front against the wall)
2. Make certain you have anti-freeze in if you don't want to drain the system.
3.Take the weight of the car off the tyres etc. by putting it on axle stands (one each corner)
4.Disconnect battery
5.Every 2/3 weeks remove plugs and put a few drops of light oil into the plug holes (as you can't turn engine over to lubricate)
6. Keep handbrake off.
7. Keep hood up to avoid creasing rear screen.
8.Put dust sheet over car.
9. Try and have a low petrol tank capacity
As you said you will be working on the car during the lay up period, make certain that adequate support is under the car apart from the axle stands.
As the car is "up" you can open the bonnet further forward for access, check this before "parking up".
Remember to trickle charge the battery should you need it.
I'm assuming you have a pretty good dry garage, as the other enemy to watch out for is condensation on metal parts.


Happy sleep
John Mac

dern

14,055 posts

280 months

Friday 25th October 2002
quotequote all

Try and have a low petrol tank capacity
Wouldn't you be better off with a full tank given that it would reduce corrosion? Also I would have thought that a tank full of petrol is slightly less dangerous (assuming it is contained) than a tank full of petrol vapour.

Regards,

Mark



>> Edited by dern on Friday 25th October 12:10

neildyson

Original Poster:

41 posts

260 months

Friday 25th October 2002
quotequote all

dern said: I don't understand why you'd park it up. I mean you enjoy driving it over the summer don't you so why shouldn't you enjoy driving it through the winter? The only difference being that you may not take the roof off quite so frequently.

Mark


To be honest, I am still unsure if I will or not. I was just trying to get a feel of if it was a good idea, and if so what needed to be done to protect it 'in garage'. The Bible has a whole section on it, I found out, so I suppose a lot of people do this.


John Mac

386 posts

264 months

Friday 25th October 2002
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dern said:

Try and have a low petrol tank capacity
Wouldn't you be better off with a full tank given that it would reduce corrosion? Also I would have thought that a tank full of petrol is slightly less dangerous (assuming it is contained) than a tank full of petrol vapour.

Regards,

Mark



>> Edited by dern on Friday 25th October 12:10

I take your point Mark but would only say that for 10/12 years I have "laid up" over the winter a Classic Historical car and have generally followed the points I mentioned and have had no problems. My garage is pretty well ventilated (and I open it frequently to get the S2 out).Petrol can "go off" if stored for 5 months as was the earlier intention for hibernation.
John

montegogt

421 posts

264 months

Friday 25th October 2002
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I have laid up many cars over winters and have never had fuel 'go off'. However, oil companies do adjust the cocktail that makes up the petrol, to make starting easier in winter months, so if you still have summer petrol in the tank, and try to start it when it's still cold, you may find it reluctant to start.
It is best to leave the tank full, as condensation will form on exposed areas of the tank interior, leading to corrosion, plus the condensation will also run down and collect in the bottom of the tank. If you haven't tried starting an engine with H2O, it's an interesting, if somewhat irritating experience, that, in severe circumstances, necessitate draining the tank!

Paceracing

729 posts

267 months

Friday 25th October 2002
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Neildyson,

Personally, I would not lay the car up. I once laid my S2 up for about 3 months, and the number of problems I encountered when I put it back on the road were alarming. It was the silly things that you just don't think about, and I particularly remember that the steering column coupling actually went 'dry' and stiff. I only became aware of the problem when I went around a corner and the steering didn't automatically centre on the exit of the corner which meant that I very nearly drove the car into a hedge! As I say, it's these silly things that cause problems.
I now use my S2 all year 'round and have even been for a roof down cruise with a Griff 500 and another S2 when it has been snowing slightly, (wrap up warm though). It turned out to be one of the best TVR days out with the lads!

Jas.

John Mac

386 posts

264 months

Friday 25th October 2002
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Thumbing through the Bible I came across this comment that may add more reason to keep the car/engine running.
page 44 - item 7 "If the engine is not used for some time, the fuel distributor can rust internally, causing blockage and fuel starvation"
I was into the Bible trying to locate where the "cold start resistor" is - why? - to see if this could be causing my Tacho not to work after following through the wiring diagram.
Anyone know or could describe it for me?

>> Edited by John Mac on Friday 25th October 15:28

shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Friday 25th October 2002
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It is normally a piece of resistive wire or a oblong shaped plastic bloc with a LUCAR connector at each end.