CanBus Error Free LEDs current draw
Discussion
We all know that LEDs draw less current than a normal incandescent bulb.
I've read that the Error Free LEDs have ballast/resistor or some other magikery in there to draw additional current to mimic a incandescent bulb.
Does this mean that Error Free LEDs draw as much current as an incandescent bulb?
If so then that makes them a lot let desirable if your goal is to reduce electric consumption.
I've read that the Error Free LEDs have ballast/resistor or some other magikery in there to draw additional current to mimic a incandescent bulb.
Does this mean that Error Free LEDs draw as much current as an incandescent bulb?
If so then that makes them a lot let desirable if your goal is to reduce electric consumption.
montyjohn said:
We all know that LEDs draw less current than a normal incandescent bulb.
I've read that the Error Free LEDs have ballast/resistor or some other magikery in there to draw additional current to mimic a incandescent bulb.
Does this mean that Error Free LEDs draw as much current as an incandescent bulb?
If so then that makes them a lot let desirable if your goal is to reduce electric consumption.
Why would you worry about the ammout if electric your lights draw in a car?I've read that the Error Free LEDs have ballast/resistor or some other magikery in there to draw additional current to mimic a incandescent bulb.
Does this mean that Error Free LEDs draw as much current as an incandescent bulb?
If so then that makes them a lot let desirable if your goal is to reduce electric consumption.
The extra fuel use from the load probably works out at like £2 per 10k miles
Chris32345 said:
Why would you worry about the ammout if electric your lights draw in a car?
The extra fuel use from the load probably works out at like £2 per 10k miles
Lots of reasons.The extra fuel use from the load probably works out at like £2 per 10k miles
I work on my car a lot. It's an old Range Rover so it needs it.
This means doors are open all the time, interior lights on and off. I want as little current draw as possible so the thing starts on a cold morning.
If camping and I need the light, I don't want to leave the engine running.
Long term I'm keen on a Hybrid, or EV conversion. In the research phase at the moment. If this goes ahead the least amount of current draw becomes very important.
Then there's reliability. I can't count the number of times my old cars have failed for things like alternators packing in.
If something like an alternator fails having LEDs could the the difference between getting home or not.
montyjohn said:
Lots of reasons.
I work on my car a lot. It's an old Range Rover so it needs it.
This means doors are open all the time, interior lights on and off. I want as little current draw as possible so the thing starts on a cold morning.
If camping and I need the light, I don't want to leave the engine running.
Long term I'm keen on a Hybrid, or EV conversion. In the research phase at the moment. If this goes ahead the least amount of current draw becomes very important.
Then there's reliability. I can't count the number of times my old cars have failed for things like alternators packing in.
If something like an alternator fails having LEDs could the the difference between getting home or not.
Interior lights aren't main beams or driving light's and rarely monited by canbus so not an issue to change I work on my car a lot. It's an old Range Rover so it needs it.
This means doors are open all the time, interior lights on and off. I want as little current draw as possible so the thing starts on a cold morning.
If camping and I need the light, I don't want to leave the engine running.
Long term I'm keen on a Hybrid, or EV conversion. In the research phase at the moment. If this goes ahead the least amount of current draw becomes very important.
Then there's reliability. I can't count the number of times my old cars have failed for things like alternators packing in.
If something like an alternator fails having LEDs could the the difference between getting home or not.
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