RPi exhaust manifold stud conversion
RPi exhaust manifold stud conversion
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Discussion

Cider Andy

Original Poster:

1,889 posts

254 months

Saturday 20th August 2005
quotequote all
My car has an exhaust manifold leak from the gasket. Whilst the repair job itself is quite simple, I'm not taking it on myself as I know it is very awkward and time consuming because of the lack of space accessing some of the bolts.

RPi (www.rpiv8.com) do a stud conversion to make the reassembly job easier. Has anyone installed this conversion? Does it make the job even more awkward in a TVR because of the lack of space?

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Saturday 20th August 2005
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I suspect it would make the job even harder in this case, because you would have to remove the studs to get the manifolds clear.

David H

809 posts

270 months

Saturday 20th August 2005
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You will have to remove the head to be able to do this because there is not the clearance to fit the manifold otherwise.

And then whenever an exhaust gasket goes (and they do) it's a head off job.

Good quality gaskets and stainless bolts (with spring washers) are your best bet. That's what I've gone for anyway

Cider Andy

Original Poster:

1,889 posts

254 months

Saturday 20th August 2005
quotequote all
Thanks Peter and David. I've had a close look this evening, following your comments and have decided that:

1. Yes, there is under 1" clearance at either side, so it would be impossible to remove the manifolds if they were mounted on studs;

2. The job doesn't look quite as awkward as I first thought, so I'm going to do it myself.

3. Replacement stainless bolts are in order (good idea, that, David). Fortunately we have an engineer's merchant in town.

This should be a laugh, the last job of any size I did on a car was a head gasket change on a Cavalier sixteen years ago!

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Saturday 20th August 2005
quotequote all
Had mixed reports about stainless bolts for this application, stainless and aluminium will react together so they can still seize. The stainless bolts are harder and more brittle, more likely to snap, and very difficult to get out if they do.

pupp

12,951 posts

301 months

Saturday 20th August 2005
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Cider Andy said:


2. The job doesn't look quite as awkward as I first thought, so I'm going to do it myself.



Assemble yourself a good selection of 14mm spanners and sockets in a variety of angles etc and it's not too bad. Although they can all be got from above (yes really), it is easier on one or two from underneath if you can lift the front of the car. Just watch that any corroded bolts are not about to snap off like carrots Good luck

Hughesie2

12,790 posts

311 months

Saturday 20th August 2005
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Doing mine tomorrow so i'll let you all know how i get on !!

Cider Andy

Original Poster:

1,889 posts

254 months

Sunday 21st August 2005
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GreenV8S said:
The stainless bolts are harder and more brittle, more likely to snap, and very difficult to get out if they do.


Good point, that. I'm fortunate in that the car has only done 19,000 miles, so the bolts look in pretty good order. Maybe I'll use the originals with plenty of copperslip.

pupp said:
Just watch that any corroded bolts are not about to snap off like carrots Good luck


Hughesie, I guess you'll find out before me! Look on the bright side: if all eight snap, at least you'll have got the manifold off!

...then there's just the other side.

Graham

16,381 posts

313 months

Sunday 21st August 2005
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I've used the stainless steel stud and brass nut kit on the race tuscan. with the zertec headers I have i still have to use 2 bolts and its quite a faf to get the manifolds on. but im much happier that i can get brass nuts off without breaking things.

SOme of the studs i git weren't threaded straight and i couldnt use them though.

I dont have a clearance issue as my headers have to go on with th eengine out as otherwise you cant get at the bolts/ nuts never mind get the headers off

G

Hughesie2

12,790 posts

311 months

Sunday 21st August 2005
quotequote all
Cider Andy said:


Hughesie, I guess you'll find out before me! Look on the bright side: if all eight snap, at least you'll have got the manifold off!

...then there's just the other side.


Seriously, get someone else to do it for you, its a bastard of a job, i'm halfway through getting one side off and strugglig, big stylie !!

How do i get the Lambda sensor off the end off the Manifold ??

GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Sunday 21st August 2005
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Hughesie2 said:
How do i get the Lambda sensor off the end off the Manifold ??


Just grab the wire and pull? Something's bound to give way ...

Or maybe not.

The Surveyor

7,624 posts

266 months

Monday 22nd August 2005
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To get the Lambda sensors off, you can either buy a slotted socket tool, or modify a deep 17mm socket by cutting a slot in it to clear the leads.

I use a deep 17mm socket, extract the three cables out of the connector (you will need to slot the rubber bung to remove the wires, and the boyonet connectors can released with lots of carfull poking with a small srewdriver). Feed the cables through the socket and remove the sensor using grips on the end of the socket.