Totally dead V8V Battery
Discussion
2007 V8V - stone dead. Was on a battery conditioner but that seems to have failed......been fine for the past 2 winters when it's not used but not this time.
So I can get in the car with the key but no electrics at all. The car is nose in to a garage and the bonnet sits under a high bench.
I've done a search and can't find any pics of where to connect to jump start the car. I presume they are under the bonnet somewhere?
I don't need to use the car urgently but I do need something out of the glove box - which is of course electric!
Any help on how to jump the car would be gratefully received.
So I can get in the car with the key but no electrics at all. The car is nose in to a garage and the bonnet sits under a high bench.
I've done a search and can't find any pics of where to connect to jump start the car. I presume they are under the bonnet somewhere?
I don't need to use the car urgently but I do need something out of the glove box - which is of course electric!
Any help on how to jump the car would be gratefully received.
Surely your handbook would show where?
Anyhow on my Vanquish there is a separate positive connection ( under a red plastic cover) right at the front of the car under the bonnet and you can stick the negative onto the engine casing or similar as the battery is buried under the rear seats.
Anyhow on my Vanquish there is a separate positive connection ( under a red plastic cover) right at the front of the car under the bonnet and you can stick the negative onto the engine casing or similar as the battery is buried under the rear seats.
Longy00000 said:
Anyhow on my Vanquish there is a separate positive connection ( under a red plastic cover) right at the front of the car under the bonnet and you can stick the negative onto the engine casing or similar as the battery is buried under the rear seats.
As the bonnet is under a bench so presumably impossible to open, it could be an entertaining project... like parking a bubble car with the door on the front and no reverse gear...If so, the rear seat could be the best option...
Riddochg said:
You dont need to open the bonnet. Pull the rear parcel shelf out. Remove some foam padding behind the drivers seat and there is the battery. It's a minutes work.
How is he going to open the rear hatch? Isn’t the hatch release electric?Only one way I can see to sort it
1) release the handbrake and push the car back until the bonnet can be opened and then access the jump points.
2) connect a good battery to the jump points
3) get into the car and move the seat forward (actually, I think this may be possible without power - there’s a release cable / pull somewhere)
4) access the battery and replace it
There’s little point in jump-starting the car - there’s a fair chance it won’t start anyway if the car battery is properly dead
Nigel_O said:
How is he going to open the rear hatch? Isn’t the hatch release electric?
Only one way I can see to sort it
1) release the handbrake and push the car back until the bonnet can be opened and then access the jump points.
2) connect a good battery to the jump points
3) get into the car and move the seat forward (actually, I think this may be possible without power - there’s a release cable / pull somewhere)
4) access the battery and replace it
There’s little point in jump-starting the car - there’s a fair chance it won’t start anyway if the car battery is properly dead
the battery is behind the seat under a shall shelf. no need to open the hatch at all. check the disconnect button heasnt been pressed though Only one way I can see to sort it
1) release the handbrake and push the car back until the bonnet can be opened and then access the jump points.
2) connect a good battery to the jump points
3) get into the car and move the seat forward (actually, I think this may be possible without power - there’s a release cable / pull somewhere)
4) access the battery and replace it
There’s little point in jump-starting the car - there’s a fair chance it won’t start anyway if the car battery is properly dead
Right...
Couldn't open the boot to remove the CTEK charger which is connected to the 12v socket in there.
Opened door with key and got to battery behind seats.
Connected a Noco charger to the battery, as wondering if the CTEK failed, but nothing.
Checked voltage across battery - 1.8v......Noco needs 2v to recognise battery
Connected up a Lithium Jump Starter pack. Strange behaviour. Powers up, fuel pump starts to prime, dash lights come on etc. But then drops out again. No idea why. Tried a few times and once managed to get it to power long enough to push the starter button. But not enough ooomph, even though the pack says it should start up to 6L petrol engine.
Jump leads I have aren't long enough to connect to the battery whilst in the car (in the garage) and reach the battery on my daily.
Managed to open the glove box and get what I needed. Wil have to push the car out and get it into a position where I can jump it. Hopefully the battery is saveable.
No idea why it;s done this. Has been fine previously.
Couldn't open the boot to remove the CTEK charger which is connected to the 12v socket in there.
Opened door with key and got to battery behind seats.
Connected a Noco charger to the battery, as wondering if the CTEK failed, but nothing.
Checked voltage across battery - 1.8v......Noco needs 2v to recognise battery
Connected up a Lithium Jump Starter pack. Strange behaviour. Powers up, fuel pump starts to prime, dash lights come on etc. But then drops out again. No idea why. Tried a few times and once managed to get it to power long enough to push the starter button. But not enough ooomph, even though the pack says it should start up to 6L petrol engine.
Jump leads I have aren't long enough to connect to the battery whilst in the car (in the garage) and reach the battery on my daily.
Managed to open the glove box and get what I needed. Wil have to push the car out and get it into a position where I can jump it. Hopefully the battery is saveable.
No idea why it;s done this. Has been fine previously.
LPH said:
Hopefully the battery is saveable.
IIRC, 10v - 11v is classed as ‘flat’, so 1.8v is ‘totally fubar’d’. Lead acid batteries do that sometimes. Fine one day, and the next day they won’t even power the interior lights. Do you want to risk being stranded on your next drive out? I’d be replacing it, even if you can get enough charge in it to start the car.
Agree, that battery is done so I wouldn't even.bother trying to recharge it. Better get online and start shopping for a new one. Some batteries have a production date on them so if yours is over about 7 years old then that's your answer.
As a side, given your cteck was still attached what was the ' light' situation on that? How many were lit up etc
As a side, given your cteck was still attached what was the ' light' situation on that? How many were lit up etc
Longy00000 said:
Agree, that battery is done so I wouldn't even.bother trying to recharge it. Better get online and start shopping for a new one. Some batteries have a production date on them so if yours is over about 7 years old then that's your answer.
As a side, given your ctek was still attached what was the ' light' situation on that? How many were lit up etc
It was lit up but I think (I've disconnected it now) that it was only half way on the 'graph' on the body of the charger - I think No 4 or 5. So looks like the battery wasn't accepting full charge.As a side, given your ctek was still attached what was the ' light' situation on that? How many were lit up etc
On my 4.7, the original battery was still working perfectly in year 8.
Having read on here about the multitude of difficulties, which can arise when batteries on these cars fail, I decided not to push my luck any further, so had the battery changed at service.
If we can manage to get 8 years out of a battery, that is not too much cost per year of course.
SL500UK said:
Did the main dealer change your battery DEWI 2, or someone else?
I used to enjoy working on my cars, but not so much these days.
My Vantage is looked after by a knowledgeable specialist (also make videos).
Did use main dealers for the first few years though.
Last year my nearest main dealer did an MoT. That was funny, because I was given the glass, travertine, refreshments, television, magazines, receptionist treatment, but all they got was the standard MoT fee.
I too used to like a little fiddle under the bonnet or swapping brake pads or what ever but I've just about given up now.
Almost everything on the Aston is a bit of pain to get to and the missus Ev doesn't have anything to fiddle with !!!
So i turned my attention to more detailing than anything else. Washing, drying and polishing is my substitute.
Even a simple battery change where mine is buried under the back seat even Houdini would struggle to get at let alone then lift a bloody big battery out.
Almost everything on the Aston is a bit of pain to get to and the missus Ev doesn't have anything to fiddle with !!!
So i turned my attention to more detailing than anything else. Washing, drying and polishing is my substitute.
Even a simple battery change where mine is buried under the back seat even Houdini would struggle to get at let alone then lift a bloody big battery out.
Even though my battery seemed to be working ok, it was 6 years old and this thread made me think about changing it. I recall someone in this forum telling us the AA changed his, so I checked out the AA battery fitting service who confirmed they're able to fit one to a V8V and on the sameday, an AA technician turned up. I told him that this might not be a straightforward job but he seemed to know what he was doing so I let him carry on. After a short while he presented me with a bill for c £172 for a Bosch that comes with a 5 year guarantee. Six years ago Stratstone charged me just under £500 to replace a battery (and a further £200 to deactivate the tracker).
Gassing Station | Aston Martin | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff