HEEEEEELLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPP!!!
Discussion
(another) problem with my Dax.
When I go for a drive and get the turbo spooling so it's nice and hot, and I turn the engine off, it will not restart for another 20 mins. When I turn the key, the fuel pumps go on, and the fan goes on, but nothing else, like the immobiliser is cutting in. Only, it only does it when it's hot.
Any ideas? :confused:
When I go for a drive and get the turbo spooling so it's nice and hot, and I turn the engine off, it will not restart for another 20 mins. When I turn the key, the fuel pumps go on, and the fan goes on, but nothing else, like the immobiliser is cutting in. Only, it only does it when it's hot.
Any ideas? :confused:
Could this be the same 'hot starter motor' problem that TVRs suffer from? Seems to be caused by a combination of heat damage to the starter motor, and marginal wiring to the solenoid. Heat wrapping the starter motor seems to extend the life, and people seem to be getting good results from the Mod-Wise wiring upgrade too.
GreenV8S said:
Could this be the same 'hot starter motor' problem that TVRs suffer from? Seems to be caused by a combination of heat damage to the starter motor, and marginal wiring to the solenoid. Heat wrapping the starter motor seems to extend the life, and people seem to be getting good results from the Mod-Wise wiring upgrade too.
Hmm yeah it does click, sounds like it could well be it, I will look tomorrow and see if I can heat wrap it.
pwig said:
Hmm yeah it does click, sounds like it could well be it, I will look tomorrow and see if I can heat wrap it.
If it clicks then it's not the common TVR problem. In the TVR instance you get no click, the solenoid doesn't move. In your case it sounds like the solenoid is activating but it isn't turning over. Not the same problem I don't think.
On top of the good advice above, I'd suggest that before you go off and buy a new starter motor, try stripping and cleaning all the connections on the battery/starter motor cables, earth cables from engine to chassis, etc.
It won't cost you anything, and you never know - it might save you the expense of a new starter motor.
It won't cost you anything, and you never know - it might save you the expense of a new starter motor.
Right just above the starter motor, is an oil vapour return pipe that is disconnected at the mo (another job to do) so I think that the vapour is covering up the starter motor or connections and making it not start. Now I will go take a pic of the pipe and I would be very greatful if you nice people can tell me what it is called 
Oil vapour shouldn't really have any effect on the conductivity of electrical connections to the starter motor - especially in such a way that it only creates a problem when hot. If anything, a fine mist of oil should help prevent corrosion, which would aid conductivity.
Probably not a good idea to have the breather discharging oil at random, though - if it gets onto the brushes inside the starter, it could cause problmes, for instance.
Simple solution - route the breather pipe into an empty plastic Diet Coke bottle somewhere away from heat in the engine bay (gotta be Diet Coke, mind you, no point in adding unneccessary weight!
)
Probably not a good idea to have the breather discharging oil at random, though - if it gets onto the brushes inside the starter, it could cause problmes, for instance.
Simple solution - route the breather pipe into an empty plastic Diet Coke bottle somewhere away from heat in the engine bay (gotta be Diet Coke, mind you, no point in adding unneccessary weight!
)I had a little K&N on my breather in this position.... with 25psi of boost it was fine.
if it clicks then I suspect the starter is sticking when hot, IMO its not likely to be a heat problem as the turbo is on the other side of the engine..... I'd let you have the one lying around my garage to test (and the K&N) but your miles away from me.
I'd definatelly check all the connections before you spend money though.
if it clicks then I suspect the starter is sticking when hot, IMO its not likely to be a heat problem as the turbo is on the other side of the engine..... I'd let you have the one lying around my garage to test (and the K&N) but your miles away from me.
I'd definatelly check all the connections before you spend money though.
Mutant Rat said:
Oil vapour shouldn't really have any effect on the conductivity of electrical connections to the starter motor - especially in such a way that it only creates a problem when hot. If anything, a fine mist of oil should help prevent corrosion, which would aid conductivity.
Probably not a good idea to have the breather discharging oil at random, though - if it gets onto the brushes inside the starter, it could cause problmes, for instance.
Simple solution - route the breather pipe into an empty plastic Diet Coke bottle somewhere away from heat in the engine bay (gotta be Diet Coke, mind you, no point in adding unneccessary weight!
The pipe isn't connected at either end. The other end is at the start motor area, but I can't see where!!
because in order to see you need to take the starter motor off. So if anyone has any better insight feel free to help me out! the pipe that comes up the intake manifold goes into a little 100x30mm chamber thingy just in front of the dizzy, that in turn goes into a low hole in the block... it vents the crankcase pressure....
if there is no chamber thingy then oil will come out the bottom of the block... it definatelly needs to be vented and not just blocked up.
the pipe in the picture would normally go around the front of the engine and vent into the air filter box.
if there is no chamber thingy then oil will come out the bottom of the block... it definatelly needs to be vented and not just blocked up.
the pipe in the picture would normally go around the front of the engine and vent into the air filter box.
Hey Pwig... Email sent with solution...
Its the gap in the Distributor Phase Sensor, its got too big and the heat from the engine makes the gap get bigger hence it won't start when hot... if it gets further away (i.e. if you don;t sort it out) you will get miss-firing on boost too
HTH
Regards
Tim
Its the gap in the Distributor Phase Sensor, its got too big and the heat from the engine makes the gap get bigger hence it won't start when hot... if it gets further away (i.e. if you don;t sort it out) you will get miss-firing on boost too
HTH
Regards
Tim
Gassing Station | Kit Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff