C70 - The Creaky Cabrio
Discussion
I wasn't going to do a blog on this one, as it isn't in awsome condition, and I originally intended to be a cheap (-ish, nothing is that cheap these days) bit of fun until it either broke, or something else caught my eye (still want a flat front 244..)
But as:
1, I just can't leave stuff alone, and
2, I'm starting to quite like it,
Here goes.
2004 C70 Convertible 2.0t with 163,000 miles when I bought it at the start of Dec, it had been stood for a while before I picked it up.
Seller seemed genuine, had owned it 10 years, said he had only ever had two issues - several years ago needed a coil pack so had all 5 replaced, and last year smelt fuel and the garage replaced the fuel line from front to back.
I think his maintenance schedule was a little more relaxed than mine.
Here it is not looking too bad after I gave it a very quick, very cursory wash (can't see the couple bits of rust from here):
First impressions on the drive home. Holy
is it bendy! I had heard about the scuttle shake but in the first couple of weeks I was seriously considering just punting it on again. It seems I wasn't the only one - found this from 2005 in the history, this guy only had it for 10 weeks 
:
Its definitely a cruiser, the chassis really isn't up to anything approaching hustling. If you hit a rough bit of road with the shimmy it sets up end up transferring though the steering wheel and pedals. Of course, living as we do, quite close to Hinkley point, all the roads are rutted and collapsed from all the buses, lorries and bits of nuclear reactor.
It also rattles and creaks, quite a lot.
Its only the 2.0 lpt producing 163hp. TBH I suspect the T5 would be a bit wayward.
But, once the sun comes out and the roof goes down it doesn't matter any more:
Not only is the exterior mossy but the interior is also grimey. I thought the gear legend on the gearknob had worn off over 163k, but no, it was dirt. I've only had chance to clean it with some dash wipes whilst waiting for my wife or daughter so far, so its only marginally better as yet.
So, onto the maintenance so far.
Plugged it into VIDA
The car is noticeably of the previous generation here when compared to the P2 - the connection and reading takes considerably longer.
Anyway, all those codes were of course mainly historical. A reset, a couple of drive cycles and a rescan and we were left with the boost pressure sensor, and the air distribution damper.
A new intermotor boost pressure sensor was ordered from fleabay for a grand total of £30 and unleashed what seemed like about 30 horsepower. Result.
The distribution damper fault seems to result in not being able to direct the air to the floor. Windscreen and/or vents work fine. I might investigate this further but seeing as how we've got through the winter like it its not a priority.
When I picked it up the fuel pump was screaming. A second hand unit was acquired:
Access was awkward because someone has put a roof stowage compartment in the way:
And as for reaching the wiring - I tried all ways - getting in the boot (couldn't fit), leaning over the side; but squeezing my shoulders together and 'diving' in seemed the only way to get two hands to it.
Once I had the pump refitted I started the car.
It sounded exactly the same
I discovered why, when I ventured underneath to replace the (original, covered in underseal) fuel filter. Whatever moron had replaced the fuel lines, had bypassed the fuel pressure regulator and return, so the pump was constantly delivering full pressure to the fuel rail with no relief!
A Sunday afternoon trip to Halfords for some new fuel line and some clamps had the added bonus of warming the exhaust - it was quite pleasant under the car then
. Earlier on I had put my gloves down for 5 minutes then picked them up to find ice forming on them.
Once the fuel pressure regulator was plumbed back in - sweet silence.
So, the second hand pump wasn't strictly necessary, but looking at it positively, I doubt the one that had been under that much stress was going to be in the best condition, and now I have a spare housing I can fit just a pump body to if I need to in future.
I also changed the oil and filter and the air filter. I bought 20 litres of A3 5w-40 (Thats what VIDA specifies) from Smith and Allan, works out at £4 per litre that way. I'll do another change after 5k. After losing a V70 2.4 170 to oil sludge despite 10k intervals I do get paranoid! Mann filters from Car parts 4 less.
Someone had been using their ugga-dugga, I seriously thought the thread was going to come out with the drain plug, but thankfully no lasting damage done.
The upper engine torque mount bush was shot - par for the course on these 5 cylinder cars it seems, so I replaced it with a cheap polyurethane mount.
The moment I started the car I was filled with regret. I had taken a rattley creaky car and introduced a lot more NVH to the cabin
And of course as I had hacksawed the old one out, I was stuck with it.
That will be getting changed for a rubber one soon.
But as:
1, I just can't leave stuff alone, and
2, I'm starting to quite like it,
Here goes.
2004 C70 Convertible 2.0t with 163,000 miles when I bought it at the start of Dec, it had been stood for a while before I picked it up.
Seller seemed genuine, had owned it 10 years, said he had only ever had two issues - several years ago needed a coil pack so had all 5 replaced, and last year smelt fuel and the garage replaced the fuel line from front to back.
I think his maintenance schedule was a little more relaxed than mine.
Here it is not looking too bad after I gave it a very quick, very cursory wash (can't see the couple bits of rust from here):
First impressions on the drive home. Holy
is it bendy! I had heard about the scuttle shake but in the first couple of weeks I was seriously considering just punting it on again. It seems I wasn't the only one - found this from 2005 in the history, this guy only had it for 10 weeks :Its definitely a cruiser, the chassis really isn't up to anything approaching hustling. If you hit a rough bit of road with the shimmy it sets up end up transferring though the steering wheel and pedals. Of course, living as we do, quite close to Hinkley point, all the roads are rutted and collapsed from all the buses, lorries and bits of nuclear reactor.
It also rattles and creaks, quite a lot.
Its only the 2.0 lpt producing 163hp. TBH I suspect the T5 would be a bit wayward.
But, once the sun comes out and the roof goes down it doesn't matter any more:
Not only is the exterior mossy but the interior is also grimey. I thought the gear legend on the gearknob had worn off over 163k, but no, it was dirt. I've only had chance to clean it with some dash wipes whilst waiting for my wife or daughter so far, so its only marginally better as yet.
So, onto the maintenance so far.
Plugged it into VIDA
The car is noticeably of the previous generation here when compared to the P2 - the connection and reading takes considerably longer.
Anyway, all those codes were of course mainly historical. A reset, a couple of drive cycles and a rescan and we were left with the boost pressure sensor, and the air distribution damper.
A new intermotor boost pressure sensor was ordered from fleabay for a grand total of £30 and unleashed what seemed like about 30 horsepower. Result.
The distribution damper fault seems to result in not being able to direct the air to the floor. Windscreen and/or vents work fine. I might investigate this further but seeing as how we've got through the winter like it its not a priority.
When I picked it up the fuel pump was screaming. A second hand unit was acquired:
Access was awkward because someone has put a roof stowage compartment in the way:
And as for reaching the wiring - I tried all ways - getting in the boot (couldn't fit), leaning over the side; but squeezing my shoulders together and 'diving' in seemed the only way to get two hands to it.
Once I had the pump refitted I started the car.
It sounded exactly the same
I discovered why, when I ventured underneath to replace the (original, covered in underseal) fuel filter. Whatever moron had replaced the fuel lines, had bypassed the fuel pressure regulator and return, so the pump was constantly delivering full pressure to the fuel rail with no relief!
A Sunday afternoon trip to Halfords for some new fuel line and some clamps had the added bonus of warming the exhaust - it was quite pleasant under the car then
. Earlier on I had put my gloves down for 5 minutes then picked them up to find ice forming on them.Once the fuel pressure regulator was plumbed back in - sweet silence.
So, the second hand pump wasn't strictly necessary, but looking at it positively, I doubt the one that had been under that much stress was going to be in the best condition, and now I have a spare housing I can fit just a pump body to if I need to in future.
I also changed the oil and filter and the air filter. I bought 20 litres of A3 5w-40 (Thats what VIDA specifies) from Smith and Allan, works out at £4 per litre that way. I'll do another change after 5k. After losing a V70 2.4 170 to oil sludge despite 10k intervals I do get paranoid! Mann filters from Car parts 4 less.
Someone had been using their ugga-dugga, I seriously thought the thread was going to come out with the drain plug, but thankfully no lasting damage done.
The upper engine torque mount bush was shot - par for the course on these 5 cylinder cars it seems, so I replaced it with a cheap polyurethane mount.
The moment I started the car I was filled with regret. I had taken a rattley creaky car and introduced a lot more NVH to the cabin
And of course as I had hacksawed the old one out, I was stuck with it.
That will be getting changed for a rubber one soon.I had couple of hours on Sunday evening so I thought I would make a start on cleaning the moss and grime out of all the seals and crevices.
Trying to jam a bit of cloth into the gap around the rear lights was taking way too long..
The solution:
Much easier to clean then:
Then refitted with a smear of silicone rubber grease on the seals.
I took this after I had already started on it:
After spending an inordinate amount of time with a lot of cotton buds, it was dark by the time I had finished so took this the next day:
This really needs tackling. It also looks as though the previous owner might have put a pressure washer over it:
I've found someone selling the 3 part renovo kit for £37 on ebay. That does't seem too bad unless anyone has any other suggestions.
It does apparently require a dry, but not sunny day to do each stage, and to not rain inbetween or for 24 hrs after reproofing it. That is unlikely knowing my luck. I think I will look into stinging up a tarp between some trees at my parents - if its not too windy.
The car has had paint in the past, so it is not scratched or dented as much as I would expect for the age and mileage, but it is in desperate need of a polish. I am definitely not a detailer - a wash with a wash mit, a polish with a microfibre and then some Turtle wax 'wax it wet' is the extent of my plans, but that seems to work well on the XC so I am hoping I'll get it looking half decent.
While I was fiddling about, couple of people walking their dogs commented that they liked the car, which is always good to hear
Trying to jam a bit of cloth into the gap around the rear lights was taking way too long..
The solution:
Much easier to clean then:
Then refitted with a smear of silicone rubber grease on the seals.
I took this after I had already started on it:
After spending an inordinate amount of time with a lot of cotton buds, it was dark by the time I had finished so took this the next day:
This really needs tackling. It also looks as though the previous owner might have put a pressure washer over it:
I've found someone selling the 3 part renovo kit for £37 on ebay. That does't seem too bad unless anyone has any other suggestions.
It does apparently require a dry, but not sunny day to do each stage, and to not rain inbetween or for 24 hrs after reproofing it. That is unlikely knowing my luck. I think I will look into stinging up a tarp between some trees at my parents - if its not too windy.
The car has had paint in the past, so it is not scratched or dented as much as I would expect for the age and mileage, but it is in desperate need of a polish. I am definitely not a detailer - a wash with a wash mit, a polish with a microfibre and then some Turtle wax 'wax it wet' is the extent of my plans, but that seems to work well on the XC so I am hoping I'll get it looking half decent.
While I was fiddling about, couple of people walking their dogs commented that they liked the car, which is always good to hear
You can get a really cheap bluetooth / usb thing that connects to the changer port if you can be arsed.
I like these, an ex Ms Stickleback had a manual T5 and it could be very wayward indeed. It did improve with the Volvo strut brace but at the time FRF Swansea told me I'd bought the very last one in the UK. It was incredibly cheap to insure too!
I like these, an ex Ms Stickleback had a manual T5 and it could be very wayward indeed. It did improve with the Volvo strut brace but at the time FRF Swansea told me I'd bought the very last one in the UK. It was incredibly cheap to insure too!
It was dry on Saturday and not ridiculously cold, so I set about replacing the rear brakes.
The discs were knackered from the car being stood up before I got it, and the squealing noise that created had got embarrasingly loud.
New bits:
Old discs were in less than pristine condition:
The insides of them were comparatively, not too bad.
It took a little bit of dismantling, the wheels were siezed on the hub. The usual method of a hefty kick failed me, I resorted to belting the tyre with a sledge.
Then the pads didn't really want to come out of the calipers. Volvo have a special tool to this. I have a hammer and screwdriver. But within the hour I had both sides stripped down.
After much scrubbing of the hubs with brake cleaner and a wire brush, the new handbrake shoes went on with new retaining clips and springs.
You can see the handbrake adjuster at the top, this is accessed with a screwdriver through one of the wheelbolt holes, and it is held in the position you set it by the spring. The P2's don't have this, just having a normal spreader bar, but Dads '07 XC90 does have them.
The retaining clips are of a different design too.
This is the fourth set of handbrake shoes I've replaced in the past few months (our XC70, my brothers S80, Dads XC90, and now this one) so I've got the method down now.
Vida suggests putting the shoes in the clips, and then using pliers to fit the large return spring. Yeah right thats not happening. I spent 45 minutes trying thay my first time.
My method now is to put the return spring on so the shoes are connected, get one shoe roughly in position and then you have the other shoe to hold on to to stretch the spring sufficently to get the other shoe on, takes 30 seconds, no swearing.
The caliper pistons on the drivers side went in with hand pressure, but on the passenger side the inner piston was a bit sticky.
The fix while I decide if a new caliper is worth it - assemble the other side fully, clamp the outer piston with a g-clamp and press on the brakes.
Push the now extended piston back in, and repeat a few times:
After extensive cleaning of the bearing surfaces in the calipers - including using a file to remove the really stubborn lumps down to a smooth surface, new pads fitted with new retaining pins and clips.
I always get the new clips/springs/pins, it just saves so much hassle trying to salvage old rusty bits that have lost their springyness.
I also took the opportunity to remove the locking wheel bolts and throw them as far away as possible, replacing them with some second hand standard bolts from e-bay.
Back down on the ground, and off for a drive.
Nearly headbutted the steering wheel - I don't think the old ones were contributing much stopping power.
But - they are still squealing, pretty much the same as before
By the time I got back it was starting to get dark. After a think and some research I discovered volvo had some specially shaped shims for the ATE calipers on the P80s:
So on sunday morning I got it up in the air again, removed the shims that came with the pads and modified them:
Then had _another_ go at cleaning the insides of the calipers, and reassembled everything with more grease than I ordinarily would use.
Still squealing just as bad
After a bit more of a think, when I got back from investigating the XC's oil leak and unloaded my tools, I took it out to 'bed in the pads' i.e. give it some stick'
A series of 60-30mph stops with 30 seconds between.
That did make some difference. It's...bearable now, I guess, in that I can only just hear it with the roof up, but still embarrassing (especially for my teenage daughter when I pick her up from school)
I'm at a bit of a loss now.
That slightlyy sticky caliper may account for some of it, but it is both sides that are literally screaming. It doesn't do it for the first few uses, so it is something that is expanding or changing with the heat. Neither hub gets excessively warm, nor are they unevenly warm.
It only does it under light(ish) braking
This is the first time I've ever had a squeal that I couldn't sort easily. something, on both sides is vibrating at an excruciatingly high frequency, but what?
The only bit that isn't new, is the calipers, but If I replace them both and it still does it I'll look a bit more foolish to my family than I do now!
I guess I should at least replace the N/S one, then if that side stops screaming I can do the other.
The discs were knackered from the car being stood up before I got it, and the squealing noise that created had got embarrasingly loud.
New bits:
Old discs were in less than pristine condition:
The insides of them were comparatively, not too bad.
It took a little bit of dismantling, the wheels were siezed on the hub. The usual method of a hefty kick failed me, I resorted to belting the tyre with a sledge.
Then the pads didn't really want to come out of the calipers. Volvo have a special tool to this. I have a hammer and screwdriver. But within the hour I had both sides stripped down.
After much scrubbing of the hubs with brake cleaner and a wire brush, the new handbrake shoes went on with new retaining clips and springs.
You can see the handbrake adjuster at the top, this is accessed with a screwdriver through one of the wheelbolt holes, and it is held in the position you set it by the spring. The P2's don't have this, just having a normal spreader bar, but Dads '07 XC90 does have them.
The retaining clips are of a different design too.
This is the fourth set of handbrake shoes I've replaced in the past few months (our XC70, my brothers S80, Dads XC90, and now this one) so I've got the method down now.
Vida suggests putting the shoes in the clips, and then using pliers to fit the large return spring. Yeah right thats not happening. I spent 45 minutes trying thay my first time.
My method now is to put the return spring on so the shoes are connected, get one shoe roughly in position and then you have the other shoe to hold on to to stretch the spring sufficently to get the other shoe on, takes 30 seconds, no swearing.
The caliper pistons on the drivers side went in with hand pressure, but on the passenger side the inner piston was a bit sticky.
The fix while I decide if a new caliper is worth it - assemble the other side fully, clamp the outer piston with a g-clamp and press on the brakes.
Push the now extended piston back in, and repeat a few times:
After extensive cleaning of the bearing surfaces in the calipers - including using a file to remove the really stubborn lumps down to a smooth surface, new pads fitted with new retaining pins and clips.
I always get the new clips/springs/pins, it just saves so much hassle trying to salvage old rusty bits that have lost their springyness.
I also took the opportunity to remove the locking wheel bolts and throw them as far away as possible, replacing them with some second hand standard bolts from e-bay.
Back down on the ground, and off for a drive.
Nearly headbutted the steering wheel - I don't think the old ones were contributing much stopping power.
But - they are still squealing, pretty much the same as before
By the time I got back it was starting to get dark. After a think and some research I discovered volvo had some specially shaped shims for the ATE calipers on the P80s:
So on sunday morning I got it up in the air again, removed the shims that came with the pads and modified them:
Then had _another_ go at cleaning the insides of the calipers, and reassembled everything with more grease than I ordinarily would use.
Still squealing just as bad
After a bit more of a think, when I got back from investigating the XC's oil leak and unloaded my tools, I took it out to 'bed in the pads' i.e. give it some stick'
A series of 60-30mph stops with 30 seconds between.
That did make some difference. It's...bearable now, I guess, in that I can only just hear it with the roof up, but still embarrassing (especially for my teenage daughter when I pick her up from school)
I'm at a bit of a loss now.
That slightlyy sticky caliper may account for some of it, but it is both sides that are literally screaming. It doesn't do it for the first few uses, so it is something that is expanding or changing with the heat. Neither hub gets excessively warm, nor are they unevenly warm.
It only does it under light(ish) braking
This is the first time I've ever had a squeal that I couldn't sort easily. something, on both sides is vibrating at an excruciatingly high frequency, but what?
The only bit that isn't new, is the calipers, but If I replace them both and it still does it I'll look a bit more foolish to my family than I do now!
I guess I should at least replace the N/S one, then if that side stops screaming I can do the other.
Ugh thats just annoying. It any parts of the handbrake spring/mechanism slight wrong and permantly rubbing, or it it def. pads as it stops when brake is applied?
I had a similar maddening experience for a year with our Saab 900. Turns out I needed specific pads that had a slot cut down the middle, or cut a centre line on a 'full' pad myself. Has not squealed since. Worth checking what shape facyory original ones are!
I had a similar maddening experience for a year with our Saab 900. Turns out I needed specific pads that had a slot cut down the middle, or cut a centre line on a 'full' pad myself. Has not squealed since. Worth checking what shape facyory original ones are!
Spinakerr said:
Ugh thats just annoying. It any parts of thd handbrake spting/mechanism slight wrong and permantly rubbing, or it it def. Pads as it stop when brake is applied?
I had a similar maddening experience for a year with our Saab 900. Turns out I needed sodcific pads that had a slot cut down thd middle, or cut a cdntrr line on a 'full' pad. Has not squealed since. Worth checking what shapd facyory original ones are!
Thanks, yes it doesn't do it when just driving along.I had a similar maddening experience for a year with our Saab 900. Turns out I needed sodcific pads that had a slot cut down thd middle, or cut a cdntrr line on a 'full' pad. Has not squealed since. Worth checking what shapd facyory original ones are!
It squeals insanely loudly under light braking, and the noise then goes away under hard braking.
(so If I hoof it up to traffic lights and jam on the brakes 'last minute', I look like a moron but don't deafen everyone)
Good shout on looking at the OE pad shape, I nearly bought some genuine volvo ones originally, but I though pagid would be decent enough (and they were 1/3rd the price).
The pagid pads have chamfered edges.
I'll see if I can find some picture on t'interwebnet.
How frustrating - Volvo sometimes have more brake pad sizes, but the aftermarket providers amalgamate sizes. It’s not something like that is it?
On the XC70 fronts, 316mm and 336mm are different part numbers/dimensions for Volvo, but all aftermarket list a single pad that fit’s both.
On the XC70 fronts, 316mm and 336mm are different part numbers/dimensions for Volvo, but all aftermarket list a single pad that fit’s both.
There are several different brake pads listed in Vida.
2 are designated as 'long life, for working vehicles' I assume for the police 850 T5's.
Then quite a few supercessions I think.
Caffyns volvo have 31261185 as fitting all c70's from 98-05
the resolution on my copy of vida goes funny sometimes making it hard to read..
2 are designated as 'long life, for working vehicles' I assume for the police 850 T5's.
Then quite a few supercessions I think.
Caffyns volvo have 31261185 as fitting all c70's from 98-05
the resolution on my copy of vida goes funny sometimes making it hard to read..
Always nice to see someone breathing some life back into an older car. For cleaning the roof, I normally use BiltHamber Surfex HD when I'm valeting. It's an insanely good APC that can be used on softops, engines, wheels and tyres, wheel arches, dead bugs, fabric seats, carpets and plastics. Probably best not water it down too much for the roof though.
Can't make any recommendations for protecting it though I'm afraid.
Can't make any recommendations for protecting it though I'm afraid.
Aiways liked the styling of this era of Volvo 'vert, more stylish than the later hard top ones which have slightly odd proportions imo.
Being a Saab guy, I bought probably the equivalent model to this from that range, the OG 9-3 Aero. It sounds like they probably drive in a pretty similar floppy manner!
Thing is, after a few miles I find I stop noticing the dynamic flaws, it becomes the new normal and then I enjoy it in relaxed cruising mode. I've had mine six or seven years now and no intention of getting rid as it is a perfect holiday car, reliable and comfortable yet not so pristine that I stress about parking it in the busiest, tightest of holiday hotspot parking.
Watching with interest to see how the old thing treats you (and vice versa). Enjoy!
Being a Saab guy, I bought probably the equivalent model to this from that range, the OG 9-3 Aero. It sounds like they probably drive in a pretty similar floppy manner!
Thing is, after a few miles I find I stop noticing the dynamic flaws, it becomes the new normal and then I enjoy it in relaxed cruising mode. I've had mine six or seven years now and no intention of getting rid as it is a perfect holiday car, reliable and comfortable yet not so pristine that I stress about parking it in the busiest, tightest of holiday hotspot parking.
Watching with interest to see how the old thing treats you (and vice versa). Enjoy!
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