Headlight levelling
Discussion
Hi. I've been informed that my auto levelling links have seized, both front and rear. I am awaiting more information but does anyone know if it could actually be the sensors? When I key the ignition the lights do move and then set at a position that is too high. Also, maybe a daft question but why is there sensors at both front and rear of the vehicle?
Front and rear to account for pitch of the vehicle; braking - the front goes down and the rear comes up; acceleration - the front goes up and the rear goes down. The system works out the vehicle attitude from both values, it would react too much with only one (over bumps for example).
The links are just a rod with balljoints - the joints seize which means when the suspension moves, the rod or the rod mount bends instead - eventually snapping the mount or the rod. If the rod has snapped, the sensor just supplies the position it is in and the lights react by raising or lowering and remaining so.
Inexpensive resolution; replacement - and you only need 2 10mm spanners once you are under the car or with the wheel removed......
The rear one is longer - but the same design; a rod and two balljoints:
The links are just a rod with balljoints - the joints seize which means when the suspension moves, the rod or the rod mount bends instead - eventually snapping the mount or the rod. If the rod has snapped, the sensor just supplies the position it is in and the lights react by raising or lowering and remaining so.
Inexpensive resolution; replacement - and you only need 2 10mm spanners once you are under the car or with the wheel removed......
The rear one is longer - but the same design; a rod and two balljoints:
Edited by Pope on Saturday 11th March 19:53
Pope said:
Front and rear to account for pitch of the vehicle; braking - the front goes down and the rear comes up; acceleration - the front goes up and the rear goes down. The system works out the vehicle attitude from both values, it would react too much with only one (over bumps for example).
The links are just a rod with balljoints - the joints seize which means when the suspension moves, the rod or the rod mount bends instead - eventually snapping the mount or the rod. If the rod has snapped, the sensor just supplies the position it is in and the lights react by raising or lowering and remaining so.
Inexpensive resolution; replacement - and you only need 2 10mm spanners once you are under the car or with the wheel removed......
The rear one is longer - but the same design; a rod and two balljoints:
Thanks Pope, Much appreciated. Something reasonably simple and cheap for a change.The links are just a rod with balljoints - the joints seize which means when the suspension moves, the rod or the rod mount bends instead - eventually snapping the mount or the rod. If the rod has snapped, the sensor just supplies the position it is in and the lights react by raising or lowering and remaining so.
Inexpensive resolution; replacement - and you only need 2 10mm spanners once you are under the car or with the wheel removed......
The rear one is longer - but the same design; a rod and two balljoints:
Edited by Pope on Saturday 11th March 19:53
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