Dumb Question re: Throttle cables..

[CarZee]

Just getting bits together for Angelsey..

Including a throttle cable..

Is the part number in the guide (www.pistonheads.com/tvr/s/Default.asp?storyId=3276) for a 2.8 or a 2.9V6?

Are they the same cable or different?

I went in the motor factors and asked for cable for 2.9V6 Granada and he asked if it was pre or post '89?

Presumably he just had it listed as V6 Granada hence pre=2.8 & post=2.9 - I just needed to make sure before finding myself stuck in Wales with a useless replacement cable....

Also, is the Ford part (F6720349) the equivalent of just the motorcraft cable, or the cable plus end fitting which has a seperate motorcraft part no..

nothing's ever simple

also, does anyone know a chain that stocks Millers Synthetic oil?

>>> Edited by CarZee on Wednesday 23 October 11:27

[shnozz]

carzee - the Ford part number for the throttle cable is 6720349. My local dealer does not stock them and I had to pre-pay for them to order it. About £15

When I came to fitting mine on a country lane I found out the replacement was slightly different - it was the ball and socket set up whereas fitted on mine was a bolt through the metal throttle arm. Might be worth checking and drilling out the spare rather than having to bore it out with a screwdriver at the road side.

[GreenV8S]

Since they tend to go, it's worth having a spare just to avoid the hassle when the current one finally fails. But if you get stuck with a broken cable and no spare, you can make a temporary repair in about half an hour or so. You will just need a small hacksaw blade and a cable clamp. You should find a suitable clamp on the 'engine' end of the heater control cable, or you can use a heavy duty electrical terminal block in an emergency.

The repair is to cut the cable's outer sleeve (the spiral wire thing) back six inches or so, exposing more of the inner wire. This needs care to ensure you don't cut into the inner. Then clean up the broken end of the inner wire, feed it through the cable clamp and refit in the normal way. Move the cable clamp up or down to get the correct length, tighten, and you're done. If the cable clamp is big enough, loop the inner through a washer or something and feed it back through the clamp again for a much stronger attachment.

Hope this makes sense,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)

[Podie]

The code that Shnozz supplied is know at the FINIS code (Ford International Numbering Index System IIRC!).

Basically, you should be able to pop into any Ford dealer, give them this number and they should be able to tell you how long delivery will be and how much it'll cost you. Unlikely they'll have any in stock though.

The code beginning with "F" is most likely the Motorcraft part number... you could therefore try Halfords and see if they can help...

[CarZee]

I've just ordered the Ford part from Dagenham motors.. will be in this afternoon or tomorrow afternoon... sweet.. amazed that the Ford part is cheaper than the offering from Camberley Auto Factors and Haflards..

Also found my local Millers supplier.. who's getting oil (and brake fluid) in for tomorrow..

[dern]

It's always worth checking with ford first, we run a mondeo as well as the s3 and often the cheapest bits are from ford or the prices are more or less the same. Also the ford bits seem to be better quality too. Their brake pads are much better than the ones I got from a factors recently (needed them in a hurry for the mondeo - doh) and the rocker cover gaskets for the s3 engine from ford are much better as they have little metal inserts at the bolt holes so it's much more difficult to over tighten the bolts and squash and tear the gasket.

Mark

[keirangrogan]

GreenV8S said: Since they tend to go, it's worth having a spare just to avoid the hassle when the current one finally fails. But if you get stuck with a broken cable and no spare, you can make a temporary repair in about half an hour or so. You will just need a small hacksaw blade and a cable clamp. You should find a suitable clamp on the 'engine' end of the heater control cable, or you can use a heavy duty electrical terminal block in an emergency.

The repair is to cut the cable's outer sleeve (the spiral wire thing) back six inches or so, exposing more of the inner wire. This needs care to ensure you don't cut into the inner. Then clean up the broken end of the inner wire, feed it through the cable clamp and refit in the normal way. Move the cable clamp up or down to get the correct length, tighten, and you're done. If the cable clamp is big enough, loop the inner through a washer or something and feed it back through the clamp again for a much stronger attachment.

I did this 4 years ago with the boot release cable when that sheared, it hasn't had a hicup since !!!

[mickypee]

The throttle cable set up on the S is some what poor. There have been many reports and stories of folk who have found they chaff or eventually break. The way TVR have routed the cable and attached the ends leaves a lot to be desired. So I modified mine with 100% success. I had a company called Spot On Cables to manufacture me a bespoke unit (they make cables for the F1 boys amongst others)Once fitted, the peddle is now silky smooth and doesn't wear like the standard item.If any one wants details, I could take some pickies and post them.

Mike