Shakey head lights !

[tribbster]

Hi guys ! does anyone have the shakey headlight problem, ie over slightly rough (normal english) roads, my headlights shake all over the place, must be annoying for oncomming traffic. Does anyone have a cure ?

[Number 7]

tribbster said:

Hi guys ! does anyone have the shakey headlight problem, ie over slightly rough (normal english) roads, my headlights shake all over the place, must be annoying for oncomming traffic. Does anyone have a cure ?

TADTS.

I've put some rubber washers between the outer face of the pods and the body where the securing bolts are located, and done them up as tight as poss. without preventing the pods from fully retracting. On mine these bolts have actually been drilled (factory?)and were previously lockwired, although I don't bother. Make sure the light units are secure in the pods as well. What also doesn't help is the beam adjustment mechanism (on the square lights, can't remember how the round ones work) is a bit weak because of the feeble spring adjuster.

7.

[tribbster]

Great ! i'll try the rubber washer scenario today ! many thanks

[SEvans]

There is also a rubber stop which contacts the lower front of the headlight pod. On mine there are some slots cut into the fiberglass so this can be adjusted.
It's just a piece of rubber hose bolted to a bracket. I think there may also be one bolted to the pod it's self which I guess is to stop the pod shaking when it's in the down position.

[Gerry Attrick]

On mine there is a rubber stop on the leading edge of the headlight surround. This holds the pod firmly if the adjustment on the arm between the lift motor and the pod is correct. The arm has a thread and locknut for adjustment, and you'll need to increase the arm length enough to make the pod hold firm against the rubber. Don't make it too long or the motor won't be able to continue to rotate to lower the pod later. In the closed position, there is a similar piece of hi-tec rubber hose attached to the underskirt. In this case, the hose is held in a slotted hole and you'll need to adjust the position of this so the pod lies flish with the bonnet.

[leorest]

If the bolts aren't lockwired then they will probably undo at some point in the future. I used, drilled out, tap washers either side of the pod.
Leo

[dickymint]

My pods are lock-wired and also they have a rubber strap bolted to the body (assume its to stop them falling off if the lock-wire breaks and the bolts undo!!!)

[geddy]

Do you also suffer from headlight droop when theyre down? The drive from the motor to the operating link wears such that there is always play in the mechanism and its almost impossible to adjust properly

[tribbster]

So basically i need to attack the car with a rubber hose ! thanks for all the replies, its improving daily, but with the amount of rubber i'm bringing through the house the missus thinks i'm into s & m !......... would hate to dissapoint her !

[chassis 33]

I'm looking at the posibility of using a pair of Hella 90mm projection units each side, (there is approx 112mm vertical distance between the front and rear edges on the outside of the Series 1 pod opening)on the under a sheet of polycarbonate that will totally eliminate the pop up lights.


When I re wired the car i totally ignored the electric motors for this reason, so my lights currently are rather solidly fixed in the up position.

And people wonder whe the car is never on the road!

[grahamw48]

I think you've been looking at a certain white prototype.

The pop-up lights do seem to be more of a nuisance than anything else though, and most peculiar when you're sitting behind up-popped ones.

[FrenchTVR]

I have been thinking about similar ideas for a couple of years, just never got around to speccing any lights or actually doing anyting about it.
from your model it looks like hte rear of the lamps protude into the engine bay area. This will affect the way the bonnet opens. Are the lamps actually that deep.

what software are you using to model it?

[shpub]

The 520 has had this system for years. Currently on the Mk 2 version which has the indicators/sidelights included in the headlamp bay under some very narrow lights.

The biggest problem is the length of the lamps. If they protrude into the engine bay, the bonnet will catch them and not open. If they move forward the height is reduced. Also be aware that when you actually look at the lamps physical diameter with mounts etc it is often far beyond their size. A 90mm lamp might actually require 120mm clearance.

I have mine set up so that full beam is everything and that does make a big difference.

[chassis 33]

EEK, only ment mention it in passing...

grahamw48 said:

I think you've been looking at a certain white prototype. The pop-up lights do seem to be more of a nuisance than anything else though, and most peculiar when you're sitting behind up-popped ones.

The original 'fag packet' sketch pre-dates me knowing the white elephant existed, however yes, It is somewhat similar isnt it! I think the white elephan rolls around the front edge to fit in the deep lights that were all that existed at the time.

FrenchTVR said:

I have been thinking about similar ideas for a couple of years, just never got around to speccing any lights or actually doing anyting about it. from your model it looks like hte rear of the lamps protude into the engine bay area. This will affect the way the bonnet opens. Are the lamps actually that deep. what software are you using to model it?

Yes the lights do protrude, and yes it will affect the bonnet. Two options, have a racer type lift off bonnet, or re-work the pivot so the bonnet lifts wholly up from the body, not partially down into it.

I think that was modelled on Inventor v5, they're currently on v10, the feature that they have now that I could of done with then was lofting along a rail path to make the nose and wings right.

shpub said:

The 520 has had this system for years. Currently on the Mk 2 version which has the indicators/sidelights included in the headlamp bay under some very narrow lights. The biggest problem is the length of the lamps. If they protrude into the engine bay, the bonnet will catch them and not open. If they move forward the height is reduced. Also be aware that when you actually look at the lamps physical diameter with mounts etc it is often far beyond their size. A 90mm lamp might actually require 120mm clearance. I have mine set up so that full beam is everything and that does make a big difference.

I've got a pair of narrow RING lights sunk into the front bumper of the car, and agree the make a huge difference on full beam, the only problem is for an MoT they're not really interested aout full beam, more the dipped beam and wether it will dazzle on coming traffic.



It seems really popular over in America to convert to projector lenses, andnot just in the 'chav' community either. Most people go for the HID option on main beam, which is nice,if you can afford it! Here's a diagram of the Hella units, standard main beam,

http://faqlight.carpassion.info/car-oem-hid.htm is a really useful resource

Regards
Iain

[MJG280]

s-v-c.co.uk/ is also has these lights for sale.

Headlight centres have to be at a minimum height which I think is 500mm

[chassis 33]

Thanks for the link!

Yes, it is 500mm, On the series 1 FHC the centre of the headlight opening is around 510mm from memory, its been 6months or so since I last looked at the conversion. If all else fails, its on adjustable spring platforms so i'll jack the car up a few inches for the MoT

I think the 500mm rule is only for dipped beam though, some LMP style its certainly aren't 500mm for the main beam, eg Westfield's XTR2.

Regards
Iain

[hormone]

I have the same problem but only on one side. Iv'e done the tap washer job but on one side the headlight pod is rock solid when up & the other is ok when you push it down but you can lift the pod up so it vibrates on the road.
I have adjusted the linkages between the pod & the motor which has helped but they are worn & have too much play in to completely solve the problem.