Shampoo consultant required

[Simpo Two]

I'll confess I'm not a car detailing fetishist; I like it to be clean and reasonably shiny but it's my daily drive.

My 5L container of Turtle Wax ZipWax 'Wash & Wax', which has served me well for many years, is nearing the bottom and a replacement will have to be found.

The choice is between this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Turtle-Wax-52824-Concentr...

and this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Turtle-Wax-Wash-Valeting-...

Both say they contain carnauba wax though it's not listed in the ingredients. The only difference seems to the words 'Pro Valet' on the latter.

Thoughts welcome!

[flatfour]

I would get something neutral like this which is also coatings safe Gtechniq Car Shampoo. Auto W1 GWash Shampoo for Cars. https://amzn.eu/d/2iyYoIg

[Mark V GTD]

Either is fine - or go for Autoglym. Just avoid using a sponge!

[Techno9000]

I have tried a few mid market 'shampoos' over the years, settling on Autoglym. When I ran out, I happened across a small bottle of Turtle Wax Zip Wax shampoo that I had inherited (literally) and found to my astonishment that it was a better finish than the Autoglym. Once I ran out I went for a 5 ltr tub at ~£12 that will last me a long while.

I'm all for paying out for a better result but, quite simply the Zip Wax shampoo gives a great result and I can't see a reason to pay more.

[Jon39]

Simpo Two said:

My 5L container of Turtle Wax ZipWax 'Wash & Wax', which has served me well for many years, is nearing the bottom and a replacement will have to be found.

The choice is - ...

The only difference seems to the words 'Pro Valet' on the latter.

Thoughts welcome!

If 5 litres has lasted many years, I don't think your valet can be using enough. Much frothing required for brake dust.

Without any doubt, I would definitely choose Pro Valet. Well worth paying the extra.
My valet is indispensible and I am particularly fortunate, because he also undertakes gardening and chauffeuring activities.
That makes him a true Pro Valet.

[RichB]

I got some of this Meguiars Wash & Wax for one of my cars because I wanted something to give it an instant shine and it's quite remarkable. Not cheap but works really well.

Meguiars at Halfords

[Ninja59]

Personally I would opt for a pure shampoo like dodo juice born to be mild with no wax or enhancers.

Grab some iron remover, tar remover, clay bar and then a spray and rinse protection products ike gyeon wet coat. That will give you 3 months protection and a lot better than the general shampoo with enhancers or wax in.

I say that above about dodo juice, but I currently have about 10 car shampoos...whenever I have a clear out of ones I don't use anymore I buy ones I have wanted to try to replace them

Edited by Ninja59 on Sunday 22 October 20:15

[Simpo Two]

Thanks for all the replies!

flatfour said:

I would get something neutral like this which is also coatings safe Gtechniq Car Shampoo. Auto W1 GWash Shampoo for Cars. https://amzn.eu/d/2iyYoIg

For £75 I'm afraid it's staying on the shelf; I'd expect unicorn spit for that.

Techno9000 said:

I have tried a few mid market 'shampoos' over the years, settling on Autoglym. When I ran out, I happened across a small bottle of Turtle Wax Zip Wax shampoo that I had inherited (literally) and found to my astonishment that it was a better finish than the Autoglym. Once I ran out I went for a 5 ltr tub at ~£12 that will last me a long while.

I'm all for paying out for a better result but, quite simply the Zip Wax shampoo gives a great result and I can't see a reason to pay more.

That's good to hear

Jon39 said:

Without any doubt, I would definitely choose Pro Valet. Well worth paying the extra.

There's a small possibility you're serous If so what is different about the Pro Valet version? - 'cos the marketing department ain't saying.

RichB said:

I got some of this Meguiars Wash & Wax for one of my cars because I wanted something to give it an instant shine and it's quite remarkable. Not cheap but works really well.

Thanks, that goes into runner-up slot

Ninja59 said:

Personally I would opt for a pure shampoo like dodo juice born to be mild with no wax or enhancers.

Grab some iron remover, tar remover, clay bar and then a spray and rinse protection products ike gyeon wet coat. That will give you 3 months protection and a lot better than the general shampoo with enhancers or wax in.

No doubt true, but a couple of leagues over my head I'm afraid. I'm the sort of man who uses a sponge.

Mark V GTD said:

Either is fine - or go for Autoglym. Just avoid using a sponge!

st. Have used a sponge for nearly 40 years (not the same one). How am I supposed to get the bubbly stuff on the motor?

[Ninja59]

Simpo Two said:

st. Have used a sponge for nearly 40 years (not the same one). How am I supposed to get the bubbly stuff on the motor?

On the application front noodle mitt from bilt hamber got some of the best reviews and should enable more dirt to be lifted away from the surface. That being said I would still do a 2 bucket method approach.

[geresey]

agree here, started using one of those mitts and 2 buckets once I started getting decent cars, and it’s also easier to use. Small sponge or cloth for the wheels. Don’t usually go for expensive shampoos, but one with wax in so don’t have to wax it too, and usually last a while so interested in outcome of this one for the next buy

[nickv12]

Simpo Two said:

I'll confess I'm not a car detailing fetishist; I like it to be clean and reasonably shiny but it's my daily drive.

My 5L container of Turtle Wax ZipWax 'Wash & Wax', which has served me well for many years, is nearing the bottom and a replacement will have to be found.

Not enough cat amongst the pigeons in this thread.

Keep using Turtle Zip (I do) and it now contains that concubine stuff… or whatever it’s called… and it works just like before.

Apply liberally with a sponge. Check regularly for debris on the sponge.

Enjoy driving your car more with the time saved.

In 10 years time, think of getting a respray if it’s desperately bad (it won’t be) as that will be same cost as all this fancy foam.

Time to exit with my thoughts whilst I’m still alive

[Ninja59]

nickv12 said:

Not enough cat amongst the pigeons in this thread.

Keep using Turtle Zip (I do) and it now contains that concubine stuff… or whatever it’s called… and it works just like before.

Apply liberally with a sponge. Check regularly for debris on the sponge.

Enjoy driving your car more with the time saved.

In 10 years time, think of getting a respray if it’s desperately bad (it won’t be) as that will be same cost as all this fancy foam.

Time to exit with my thoughts whilst I’m still alive

The biggest issue with Aston's clear is that it is very very soft, any grit in a sponge is more likely to cause straight scratching possibly deep enough given the lack of thickness, to frankly be more on the respray than saveable side by polishing. The flipside of that very statement, and this is a personal view having seen the way some even professional detailers approach them, some go a bit heavy handed (even Works have seen a number of cars more recently with strike through at the edge of panels which is the thinnest area).

This means approaching it with some the lightest polishes, they have broadly speaking removed some of the bad swirling I have seen on mine in one step (I do need to do some more to remove some holograms post Works respray). I am taljking products such as Rupes uno pure level which basically have no cut and are only for gloss, given the correct technique they virtually leave clear paint in one to two hits.

Proper care and treatment using correct shampoos, tools and technique will ensure at worst case you end up with light swirling, I personally (thanks to having some history with Mazda's soft paint) have readopted those techniques to help reduce the issues which is granted involving "fancy foam", but helps create boundary layers of lubrication as fundamentally lack of that that combined with your wash media is what leads to the issues experienced regarding "dull paint".

You could equally wrap it up in PPF, but that does bring its own set of issues as well. Understanding, even at a basic level the nature of the paint on the car can give you a head start in ensuring the longer term longevity of keeping the clear in good, pun intended, sharper shape.

Despite my slight negativity above about the soft clear, I personally prefer it to harder clears from other manufacturers which cause other issues around polishing and Aston do have a head start with the paint generally like lack of orange peel which if present kills sharpness hugely (but also increases time required in respray work).

Edited by Ninja59 on Monday 23 October 08:49

[geresey]

Ninja is the consultant! What do you think of snow foam prior to wash? My son got some recently that I’ve used a couple of times, doesn’t seem to be a downside other than it adds another 20 minutes to wash time

[RL17]

RichB said:

I got some of this Meguiars Wash & Wax for one of my cars because I wanted something to give it an instant shine and it's quite remarkable. Not cheap but works really well.

Meguiars at Halfords

Yep Meguiars Ultimate Wash and wax. 2 buckets and two mitts - one just for bottom 4 or 5 inches and wheel arch edges and underside between wheels.

Don’t wash that often - also use Bilberry on wheels with jet wash. Black V8V so needs dry cloudy weather or very early morning wash time.

Speed 3 times as long drying car with pet blower ( good for door handles, wing mirror fixings and rear light areas - plus wheels and wheelnuts etc (do use protective eyewear) and good drying cloths. Plus drying under bonnet - even with cardboard and cloths under bonnet vents).

Plus a little warm up run out afterwards.

[atrossity]

Ninja59 said:

The biggest issue with Aston's clear is that it is very very soft...

...

You could equally wrap it up in PPF, but that does bring its own set of issues as well...

Edited by Ninja59 on Monday 23 October 08:49

Is a professional ceramic coating something that would be recommended for Aston paints?

I'm due my DB12 soon. I won't have the time (or energy tbh) for very regular cleaning so I have been following this and the recent PPF thread out of interest. I'm put off PPF for various reasons. So I imagine a professional one-off ceramic coating followed by regular(-ish!) washing with quality shampoo/wax would be my best option.

[Jon39]

I have a power washer that is very useful for taking the top surface off stone paving.

Would the shampoo consultant here recommend using that, in conjunction with snow foam, because it might also remove all those awful swirl marks?

[SHIFTY]

When rinsing use rainwater as you can leave the car to dry on its own with no water spots, we have hard water so would leave lime spots.

I use a water butt connected to drainpipe and a hozelock pump via hose then if needed a towel mitten to dry water soaked bits.

[Ninja59]

geresey said:

Ninja is the consultant! What do you think of snow foam prior to wash? My son got some recently that I’ve used a couple of times, doesn’t seem to be a downside other than it adds another 20 minutes to wash time

As long as you approach snow foam with the mindset of:
1) not aiming to remove all dirt (unless it is general light level dirt and dust)
2) softening the dirt below

then yes it works.

But many people approach it with the wrong mindset, trying to remove dirt in one go and aiming for shaving foam thickness of foam, whilst also usually putting too little product concentration in the snow foam bottle mix.

Personally only Bilt Hamber Touchless or Autofoam is worth buying IMO. Putting circa 250 - 350 ml in a 1 litre bottle and turning it to the max.

If the car is significantly dirty then, if it is lighter dirt then miss steps one and 2 (post wheel clean):
1) Citrus pre wash
2) Rinse
3) Foam, plus cleaning of the detail areas with a brush and some APC or shampoo mix sprayed on
4) Rinse
5) Refoam with snow foam or the shampoo for additional lubrication on soft paint
6) Hands on 2 bucket wash
7) Rinse
8) Open hosoe rinse on a protected car
9) Blow dry

In general with 17 years of doing this the magic step on soft paint that made the biggest difference for me was step 5 and 8 (8 being something sooo many people forget to use to their advantage on protected cars). As these help increase lubrication on soft paint and minimise having to touch the paint to dry it when lubrication will be much lower. Step 9 helps, but is a bit "fancy" and expensive and you could achieve the same using methods such as the pat method or lay and pull method with a drying towel.

[Ninja59]

atrossity said:

Is a professional ceramic coating something that would be recommended for Aston paints?

I'm due my DB12 soon. I won't have the time (or energy tbh) for very regular cleaning so I have been following this and the recent PPF thread out of interest. I'm put off PPF for various reasons. So I imagine a professional one-off ceramic coating followed by regular(-ish!) washing with quality shampoo/wax would be my best option.

It depends which one, they are all broadly similar, but there is differences, if it is a 2 step one then yes I would. It will be strong on the base coat to be chemical resistant and generally have a better water beading/sheeting coat on top.

Do remember though that coatings can still:
1) gain swirl marks themselves
2) build up of dirt

They will need attention at some point, I stopped using the full fat ones across a car sometime back (but am very different), but still have them in areas that are problematic like the diffuser.

Don't use a shampoo with wax or enhancers in as you will block up the coating and effectively the wax of the shampoo then is protecting the car not your coating product.

[LTP]

When Paddy detailed my V8V a few years back I showed him my car washing kit. He gave me a pitying look and a list.

I know my place.