Ideas on how to remove this?

[tight fart]

I'm struggling removing this, it's the top half of a bump stop.
There's about 4" to work in before the leaf spring.
They should just unscrew, the other side has.
The disc has come away from the study that just has a round head so you can't get a socket on it.
I'm not a good welder although it wont matter what it looks like it just has to come out.

[Hammer67]

If you can, grind 2 parallel flats to fit into an open ended spanner.

[tight fart]

It's to tight for that. I was thinking 4 sides and hammer a 1/2 square on to it?

[InitialDave]

You may not be a good welder, but assuming you do have welding capability of some kind, weld a large nut onto it and use a socket on that.

The welding heat may help too.

[tight fart]

I wonder if something like this would grip it?

[Scrump]

I would just cut the whole thing off with an angle grinder. (I don’t have a welder so would go straight into destruction mode!).

[tight fart]

Scrump said:

I would just cut the whole thing off with an angle grinder. (I don’t have a welder so would go straight into destruction mode!).

Then I’m left with the stud in the chassis rail and no way of fitting the air bag.

[ian332isport]

Try using a small chisel in the side of it. You can usually get that sort of thing to turn with a chisel. Just need to get the angle right.

[tight fart]

ian332isport said:

Try using a small chisel in the side of it. You can usually get that sort of thing to turn with a chisel. Just need to get the angle right.

The problem with that is I managed about 4 full turns before it broke, probably got another 10 to go and I think it’s getting tighter.
No access to the bolt to clean it up, and I can’t get penetrating oil on it as it’s hidden.

[Hammer67]

tight fart said:

ian332isport said:

Try using a small chisel in the side of it. You can usually get that sort of thing to turn with a chisel. Just need to get the angle right.

The problem with that is I managed about 4 full turns before it broke, probably got another 10 to go and I think it’s getting tighter.
No access to the bolt to clean it up, and I can’t get penetrating oil on it as it’s hidden.

Heat, along with turning the bolt back and forth. If it`s moving a decent pair of mole grips should work.

Also sometimes you need to do what you don`t want to do to increase access, it might well be a PITA but have you considered dropping the leaf spring?

[Dogwatch]

Slosh/spray penetrating oil onto the top of the disc then work the stud back and forth to its limits so that the oil is carried up the threads into the chassis member.

[InitialDave]

tight fart said:

The problem with that is I managed about 4 full turns before it broke, probably got another 10 to go and I think it’s getting tighter.
No access to the bolt to clean it up, and I can’t get penetrating oil on it as it’s hidden.

OK, couple of things.

- if the end is hidden inside a box section, there will almost certainly be some kind of drain hole or other mounting point through which you could get a bit of tubing to roughly the right position and blast some penetrating spray at it
- if it's getting tighter trying to undo it, it could be there are protruding threads on the other side that are corroded and that's what's causing you trouble. In this situation, one option is to cut the head off, cut a slot for a screwdriver in the end, and screw it back into the box section and let it just fall in there and leave it.

[tight fart]

Thanks for all the thoughts, it really was to tight to cut a slot.
Dropping the leaf spring wouldn't do much as the axel would need moving as well.
I can't weld so if you can I suggest you exit now or you'll have nightmares.
I have a small mig welder unused in the garage and after 10 mins practice I used that, not nice lying on my back and welding about 9" above my face.
But it worked well enough to get a chain wrench around it and it's out.

Edited by tight fart on Saturday 28th October 14:55

[vw_99]

Well done.

[Hammer67]

Well played that man. Good effort.

[texaxile]

Your welding skills are superior to mine. It does lead one to wonder about why stuff is designed in such a way sometimes.

Good work fella. That deserves an ice cold beer.

[donkmeister]

tight fart said:

I wonder if something like this would grip it?

I realise you have solved the issue, well done, but for future reference this tool needs at least a centimetre or so of exposed stud.

Handy thing to have, I used one to remove some 50 year old interference fit head studs that were corroded in to an ally block. The black knurled wheel is very hard and bites in to the stud to give you the grip.

[TwinKam]

Well done, you clearly can weld, as demonstrated by the fact that it was strong enough to serve the purpose... ie you got sufficient penetration.
The prettiness comes later, with practice.

[Krikkit]

TwinKam said:

Well done, you clearly can weld, as demonstrated by the fact that it was strong enough to serve the purpose... ie you got sufficient penetration.
The prettiness comes later, with practice.

This!

Who cares how it looks when it gets you out of a jam

[tight fart]

donkmeister said:

I realise you have solved the issue, well done, but for future reference this tool needs at least a centimetre or so of exposed stud.

Handy thing to have, I used one to remove some 50 year old interference fit head studs that were corroded in to an ally block. The black knurled wheel is very hard and bites in to the stud to give you the grip.

Funnily enough i found I had one in the garage, but as you mention there wasn’t enough access to try it.