Brake fluid swap
Discussion
I need to do a brake fluid change on a anew-to-me Toyota Yaris, and while i'm at it i might as well do the other two cars and a motorbike as well.
What is the best tool to do the job? There seems a wide array of pressured tanks or vacuum pump systems, or do i stick with the old fashioned method of getting one of the kids to pump the pedal while i open and close the bleed nipple?
What is the best tool to do the job? There seems a wide array of pressured tanks or vacuum pump systems, or do i stick with the old fashioned method of getting one of the kids to pump the pedal while i open and close the bleed nipple?
I have a compressor, so I use one of these, which I find to be excellent.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS020-Pneumatic-Bl...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS020-Pneumatic-Bl...
InitialDave said:
I have a compressor, so I use one of these, which I find to be excellent.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS020-Pneumatic-Bl...
I've got a compressor, but only a smallish one so I'm not sure that will work. It seems to requires a lot of airflow, going by the reviewshttps://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS020-Pneumatic-Bl...
Is it an old Yaris? I've worked through mechanical refurb on a 2000 Yaris, (daughter's first car) this summer. I found I couldn't use my Ezibleed as the reservoir is a push fit lid, so I coudn't screw onto it.
In the end I just did a half full bottle of brake fluid so the tube was always submerged, opened the nipple & repeated pumps until it ran clear. Worked well.
In the end I just did a half full bottle of brake fluid so the tube was always submerged, opened the nipple & repeated pumps until it ran clear. Worked well.
ARHarh said:
First choice is old school, open nipple press pedal, close nipple, lift pedal. But you need a helper who listens (not the wife 
) If I am on my own I use one of those Sealey things. But the pedal way is always best.
I should be able to get daughter No1 to assist, as one of the cars is hers - a 2005 Yaris we are renovating together. ) If I am on my own I use one of those Sealey things. But the pedal way is always best.Well, I'm doing most of the technical stuff, but she has been underneath wire brushing the rear subframe and arches and giving them a coat of Smoothrite and underseal.
InitialDave said:
I have a compressor, so I use one of these, which I find to be excellent.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS020-Pneumatic-Bl...
I bought one of these but found that the connector doesn't fit the nipple too well and can introduce air to the system. Gunson easy bleed works very well in my experience.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS020-Pneumatic-Bl...
My preferred way is a clear hose leading from the bleed nipple up to a jar placed somewhere you can see it from the driver's seat. That turns this into a one person job, lets you see the state of the fluid coming out, and with only minimal care avoids any possibility of any getting drawn back in.
The pressure bleeder approach seems like it should be easier, but you only need that cap to leak or blow off once to put you off this approach.
The pressure bleeder approach seems like it should be easier, but you only need that cap to leak or blow off once to put you off this approach.
Old school has always served me well, Easibleed is fine but doesn't suit all reservoirs.
Wifey is brilliant at pedal pumping, i don't open and close the bleed valve constantly, instead using a clear tube i hold my finger gently over the open end using light finger pressure as a valve whilst wifey does her leg exercises via the brake pedal, this method has never failed.
As above syphon as much old fluid out as possible before starting.
Years ago you used to be able to buy valved bleed nipples from the car accessory shop, simply replace existing bleed nipples with them (they were cheap at the time) they really made brake bleeding a one man job, haven't seen them for years.
Wifey is brilliant at pedal pumping, i don't open and close the bleed valve constantly, instead using a clear tube i hold my finger gently over the open end using light finger pressure as a valve whilst wifey does her leg exercises via the brake pedal, this method has never failed.
As above syphon as much old fluid out as possible before starting.
Years ago you used to be able to buy valved bleed nipples from the car accessory shop, simply replace existing bleed nipples with them (they were cheap at the time) they really made brake bleeding a one man job, haven't seen them for years.
Smint said:
Years ago you used to be able to buy valved bleed nipples from the car accessory shop, simply replace existing bleed nipples with them (they were cheap at the time) they really made brake bleeding a one man job, haven't seen them for years.
You can get them quite easily still. One of the problems used to be how to seal the thread, they would be ok for one use but after that the thread would let by. These seem a decent solution https://www.demon-tweeks.com/stahlbus-speed-bleede...trickywoo said:
You can get them quite easily still. One of the problems used to be how to seal the thread, they would be ok for one use but after that the thread would let by. These seem a decent solution https://www.demon-tweeks.com/stahlbus-speed-bleede...
They might have helped trying to get a pedal on an ex WD series Landrover i once owned.Bled for ages and could not get a pedal, drum brakes all round as you know, ended up removing all drums and clamping all slave cylinders fully closed, then it bled out easily ending up with possibly the best brakes ever known on a series, which isn't saying much.
Can't say i'm that impressed by overservoed brakes these days mind, those on our Prado (electric accumulator pump) are so light and powerful that if you need to brake quickly it can be a dead stop, much to the consternation of anyone following, prefer a more restrained servo action.
Smint said:
They might have helped trying to get a pedal on an ex WD series Landrover i once owned.
Bled for ages and could not get a pedal, drum brakes all round as you know, ended up removing all drums and clamping all slave cylinders fully closed, then it bled out easily ending up with possibly the best brakes ever known on a series, which isn't saying much.
Can't say i'm that impressed by overservoed brakes these days mind, those on our Prado (electric accumulator pump) are so light and powerful that if you need to brake quickly it can be a dead stop, much to the consternation of anyone following, prefer a more restrained servo action.
Ah, it's owning a LWB Landie that sold me on my compressor-powered bleeder actually, because it does a good job on them.Bled for ages and could not get a pedal, drum brakes all round as you know, ended up removing all drums and clamping all slave cylinders fully closed, then it bled out easily ending up with possibly the best brakes ever known on a series, which isn't saying much.
Can't say i'm that impressed by overservoed brakes these days mind, those on our Prado (electric accumulator pump) are so light and powerful that if you need to brake quickly it can be a dead stop, much to the consternation of anyone following, prefer a more restrained servo action.
For the initiated - 109 Land Rovers with the twin leading shoe front brakes are an absolute pig to bleed properly, not least because the bleed nipple is on the bottom wheel cylinder.
GreenV8S said:
The pressure bleeder approach seems like it should be easier, but you only need that cap to leak or blow off once to put you off this approach.
Indeed, check the seal with no fluid first, otherwise you can get brake fluid every where.I attach a Sealey vacuum bleeder and then pump the Pedal/lever, it gets the fluid through in no time.
I've done a few brake fluid changes to different cars i've had over the years.
I tried a Sealey tool, that was supposed to create a small vacuum then draw the fluid / air locks out.
But i found for it to work, the bleed nipples had to be loosened a fair bit then ait got in at the threads so it ending up being a nuisance / waste of time
My preference is always the 2 person technique, as if it's done right it's hard to go wrong.
But when alone, i bought another Seal kit that connects a bottle you fill with brake fluid, to a tyre at approx 10psi then to the resevoir.
The pressure from the tyre forces the fluid into this bottle, into the reservoir on the car and essentially pushes the old stuff out.
But it's really slow. on it's own.
I also use bleed specific rubber pipes with one way valves in them.
With them submerged, into a container filled with some oil, and the pressurised system i can gently assist the speed of the bleeding / flushing by using the brake pedal with no threat of drawing in any air.
Just don't make the mistake i once did and let the bottle run out of fluid so the whole system ends up gulping a lot of air.
When i'm doing the above flushing i do them one at the time, until it runs clear then go around and bleed them a few more times after as / if needed.
I tried a Sealey tool, that was supposed to create a small vacuum then draw the fluid / air locks out.
But i found for it to work, the bleed nipples had to be loosened a fair bit then ait got in at the threads so it ending up being a nuisance / waste of time
My preference is always the 2 person technique, as if it's done right it's hard to go wrong.
But when alone, i bought another Seal kit that connects a bottle you fill with brake fluid, to a tyre at approx 10psi then to the resevoir.
The pressure from the tyre forces the fluid into this bottle, into the reservoir on the car and essentially pushes the old stuff out.
But it's really slow. on it's own.
I also use bleed specific rubber pipes with one way valves in them.
With them submerged, into a container filled with some oil, and the pressurised system i can gently assist the speed of the bleeding / flushing by using the brake pedal with no threat of drawing in any air.
Just don't make the mistake i once did and let the bottle run out of fluid so the whole system ends up gulping a lot of air.
When i'm doing the above flushing i do them one at the time, until it runs clear then go around and bleed them a few more times after as / if needed.
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