Seized track rod end

[tdxffy]

Hi guys, I've got a track rod end which I had to get the nut ground off and it has seized into the knuckle pretty badly. I've tried heating it with a torch + penetrating fluid and hammering it out but no luck. Is it worth buying a ball joint remover to get it out or are there any other suggestions?

Unfortunately I cant post a link to an image of it as im new here.

[guards red]

A clamp type ball joint splitter is your best bet, assuming you still have enough of the stub the nut went on for the spitter to press on.

The "pickle fork" type may work if you have no stub but they make me wince.

[GreenV8S]

Are you aware of the right technique for hammering taper joints out? You need to hammer radially inwards on the the casting, not try to drive the inner pin lengthways. When you hammer on the casting like this, Young's modulus increases the diameter of the hole and the shock tends to separate the joint. When you hammer endways on the pin, Young's modulus is working against you.

[tdxffy]

Thanks, looks like i'll have to give the fork a go as its been ground completely flat against the knuckle

[bern]

Had similar the other week. It can't be stuck if it's in 3 pieces!

[Hammer67]

If it is seized and not moving, grind the stub nice and flat, carefully centre punch it and drill it, start small and gradually increase the drill size.

And heat, lots of heat.

[E-bmw]

I suspect as above you are hitting the wrong bit in the wrong direction.

You need to hit the knuckle as you call it side on, DO NOT try to punch the shaft of the taper out as it will never work.

Not the best video, but it shows you what you should be doing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8c8kt0bd3s

[donkmeister]

GreenV8S said:

Are you aware of the right technique for hammering taper joints out? You need to hammer radially inwards on the the casting, not try to drive the inner pin lengthways. When you hammer on the casting like this, Young's modulus increases the diameter of the hole and the shock tends to separate the joint. When you hammer endways on the pin, Young's modulus is working against you.

This.

Also, if the ball joint needs to move upwards to separate it, you can use a jack underneath to add some preload to help the taper separate. Not too much, the car should still be resting on the stands!

[tdxffy]

Managed to get it out, just heated it for a couple minutes and hit on the knuckle rather than into the thread, popped out after about 10 hits. Thanks for the help guys