Gear Linkage roll pins
Discussion
While checking the gear linkage today, it was noted that a couple of the roll pins securing the rods together were slightly loose!?!
Has anyone else encountered this problem and if so what did you do to resolve? Did you find a good supplier of quality replacements (oversized ones?).
I'm sure this has come up before but I'm unable to find it on the search function.
Many thanks
Michael
Has anyone else encountered this problem and if so what did you do to resolve? Did you find a good supplier of quality replacements (oversized ones?).
I'm sure this has come up before but I'm unable to find it on the search function.
Many thanks
Michael
I used tapered pins and cut a thread on the thin end and fitted a stainless nylock. This is how your supposed to fit these small universal joints to shafts. It's a completely solid link with no play whatsoever. The problem with bolts is that there is always a little play due to the threads (bolts are not supposed to locate things) and it will eventually get as bad as the roll pins.
Fitting the taper pins takes a bit of work and about £20 of tools but it's definitely worth it. I'll try and snag a picture next time I've got the car open.
Fitting the taper pins takes a bit of work and about £20 of tools but it's definitely worth it. I'll try and snag a picture next time I've got the car open.
While I agree that a taped pin is the best way to install the rods, we opted to go this way
http://home.comcast.net/~rosenracing2/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-574457.html
mainly to have to avoid using force to remove a roll pin or a tapered pin if we wanted to remove a portion of the shifting rod, which we did several times when building the car. The method we used to install the bolts was to,
1. use aircraft grade bolts which tend to be exactly the proper diameter and length, e.g.,the shoulder of the bolt is making full contact with the bored rod, with no threads in contact with the rod,
2. thread one side of the universal, and screw the bolt into it. No nut is used.
3. Drill the holes using either a milling machine or drill press using a precision drill bit.
With over 10,000 miles on the CanAm, the shifting rods are as tight as when I built them. The roll pins appear to be as snug as when installed. I believe the important trick here is how precise the holes are drilled for the bolts and roll pins.
Jack
http://home.comcast.net/~rosenracing2/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-574457.html
mainly to have to avoid using force to remove a roll pin or a tapered pin if we wanted to remove a portion of the shifting rod, which we did several times when building the car. The method we used to install the bolts was to,
1. use aircraft grade bolts which tend to be exactly the proper diameter and length, e.g.,the shoulder of the bolt is making full contact with the bored rod, with no threads in contact with the rod,
2. thread one side of the universal, and screw the bolt into it. No nut is used.
3. Drill the holes using either a milling machine or drill press using a precision drill bit.
With over 10,000 miles on the CanAm, the shifting rods are as tight as when I built them. The roll pins appear to be as snug as when installed. I believe the important trick here is how precise the holes are drilled for the bolts and roll pins.
Jack
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