How tough should it be to move the car in 1st w. handbrake?

[RR76]

First time doing drum brakes, I failed an mot he said something wrong with handbrake so to save funds I thought I'd give it a go. One one side a clip retainer pin had rusted off so I replaced it that explained the squeaking noise I used to hear. Other side is fine. Now I have to adjust the shoes properly.

I've adjusted, put drum/wheel back on several times, it seemed strong to me with h/b on, couldn't budge the wheel using all my physical strength so I gently tried rolling to car in first gear and it didn't seem to have enough resistance, there was a bit but ultimately it moved forward.

So how difficult should it be to move the car in first gear with h/b, note I did this very carefully?

If not it's back to taking everything off and readjusting.

[Scrump]

A car in 1st gear and with handbrake on should not be easy to push.

[Polly Grigora]

A car with handbrake on parked on a steep hill won't budge out of its position

[GreenV8S]

With the handbrake on hard, the brakes wheels should skid before they roll on a typical road surface. Whether the car can apply enough drive to make them do either will depend on the car.

[nsa]

I had something similar on a Toyota 4x4 and it was only fixed after I followed the adjustment steps from the manual to the letter. Agreed, it shouldn't move at all with the handbrake on.

[tapkaJohnD]

Working on rear brakes, it's natural to put the car on axle stands. But this allows the wheels to hang down in full droop, which in some suspensions may change the effective length of the hand brake cable. Adjusting a cable operated hand brake in this position may allow the length to be too short, or too long, when the wheels and suspension are in the normal position.

Support the car with axle stands under the rear uprights, rather than under jacking points, so that the car rests on its suspension which will be in the normal position while you adjust the hand brake.

John

[Pica-Pica]

The parking brake MUST hold on a 16% gradient, as a minimum. Find one and check it out.
Reference:
https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-...
Note: for rear discs with a drum parking brake (aka: drum-in-hat), it is wise to occasionally use the parking brake to come to a stop, to keep the shoe surfaces used and not glazed over. Although, I assume OP has just rear drums for both service and parking brakes, and no rear discs.

Edited by Pica-Pica on Saturday 25th November 11:55

[RR76]

Pica-Pica said:

The parking brake MUST hold on a 16% gradient, as a minimum. Find one and check it out.
Reference:
https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-...
Note: for rear discs with a drum parking brake (aka: drum-in-hat), it is wise to occasionally use the parking brake to come to a stop, to keep the shoe surfaces used and not glazed over. Although, I assume OP has just rear drums for both service and parking brakes, and no rear discs.

Edited by Pica-Pica on Saturday 25th November 11:55

Well it failed it got 10%. Think I'll let garage do this job.

[TwinKam]

Tell us what car it is, we might have some tips pertinent to its particular set up.

[Krikkit]

Pica-Pica said:

Note: for rear discs with a drum parking brake (aka: drum-in-hat), it is wise to occasionally use the parking brake to come to a stop, to keep the shoe surfaces used and not glazed over. Although, I assume OP has just rear drums for both service and parking brakes, and no rear discs.

With new shoes I tend to adjust them as a first attempt, then road test and do a few good pulls of the handbrake to bed the shoes in a little, then readjust