How to remove this type of locking wheel nut
Discussion
Hi,
A few months ago, a garage couldn't find my locking wheel nut key when working on my Ford Mondeo. They decided to force the nuts off (not sure how) and replace them. They gave me that key which I have now lost.
I've gone back to them, but the new branch manager has said that he can't help me, and neither can ATS (who are supposed to be fitting me new tyres in the next few days) and neither can any other local garage I have called.
I saw some videos about knocking a socket over the nuts, and then using a breaker bar, but on closer inspection, the nuts do not resemble those in the videos, instead they look like this.
Can anybody please advise how I can get these off without the key?
Any help would be much appreciated
EDIT: Unfortunately the system won't allow me to post the image.
A few months ago, a garage couldn't find my locking wheel nut key when working on my Ford Mondeo. They decided to force the nuts off (not sure how) and replace them. They gave me that key which I have now lost.
I've gone back to them, but the new branch manager has said that he can't help me, and neither can ATS (who are supposed to be fitting me new tyres in the next few days) and neither can any other local garage I have called.
I saw some videos about knocking a socket over the nuts, and then using a breaker bar, but on closer inspection, the nuts do not resemble those in the videos, instead they look like this.
Can anybody please advise how I can get these off without the key?
Any help would be much appreciated
EDIT: Unfortunately the system won't allow me to post the image.
I can see a picture at https://thumbsnap.com/2xRRMrNw but I'm struggling to recognise it as a locking wheelnut. Does that link take you to the picture you intended?
https://thumbsnap.com/2xRRMrNw
I've removed them fairly easily in the past by hammering on a splined socket that is just smaller than the raised parts on it, find
the smallest size that will fit over it and then choose the next size down from that, needs to splined not hex and needs to be a quality
make or it might split the socket.
I've removed them fairly easily in the past by hammering on a splined socket that is just smaller than the raised parts on it, find
the smallest size that will fit over it and then choose the next size down from that, needs to splined not hex and needs to be a quality
make or it might split the socket.
GreenV8S said:
I can see a picture at https://thumbsnap.com/2xRRMrNw but I'm struggling to recognise it as a locking wheelnut. Does that link take you to the picture you intended?
Yep that's a typical Mondeo lock nut, not the worst to remove really.B'stard Child said:
Is it just me that looks at the picture and thinks the thread isn’t fully engaged and the shadow underneath makes it look like the hole in the wheel is oval like it’s been driven with loose wheel bolts or nuts?
I think what you are seeing as an "oval" is just a shadow of the nut.On the other point raised it looks very much like the stud is way too short for those wheels, I wonder if someone has fitted alloys that need longer studs but not fitted longer studs?
E-bmw said:
I think what you are seeing as an "oval" is just a shadow of the nut.
On the other point raised it looks very much like the stud is way too short for those wheels, I wonder if someone has fitted alloys that need longer studs but not fitted longer studs?
Looks that way, or could it be a previously snapped of stud, should make it easier to remove if it's only on half of the threads.On the other point raised it looks very much like the stud is way too short for those wheels, I wonder if someone has fitted alloys that need longer studs but not fitted longer studs?
E-bmw said:
B'stard Child said:
Is it just me that looks at the picture and thinks the thread isn’t fully engaged and the shadow underneath makes it look like the hole in the wheel is oval like it’s been driven with loose wheel bolts or nuts?
I think what you are seeing as an "oval" is just a shadow of the nut.On the other point raised it looks very much like the stud is way too short for those wheels, I wonder if someone has fitted alloys that need longer studs but not fitted longer studs?
Thanks for all of the responses, which are much appreciated. I would have replied earlier, but was blocked by the forum software for 24 hours 
I was confused by what I was seeing, as they look very different to the "standard" locking nuts that I see only every "how to" video.
I don't know what type they are, as they were just put on by the garage when they couldn't find the original key.
I just wanted to confirm a couple of things.
1) That I should be aiming to get the socket over the darker protrusions (circled in the picture), rather than the lighter metal.
2) That there definitely isn't a "shear head" locking nut (as I don't want to risk making matters worse if it is)
3) To install the new locking nuts (McGuard standard locking nuts), I think that the correct torque for a 2L Mondeo TDCI Hatchback is 130-140Nm. Are you able to confirm if that is correct please?
Any further advice on the above would be greatly appreciated.
thumbsnap.com/66nX9MZT
NOTE: Again I can't directly link the above image (as a new member).

I was confused by what I was seeing, as they look very different to the "standard" locking nuts that I see only every "how to" video.
I don't know what type they are, as they were just put on by the garage when they couldn't find the original key.
Master Of Puppets said:
I've removed them fairly easily in the past by hammering on a splined socket that is just smaller than the raised parts on it, find
the smallest size that will fit over it and then choose the next size down from that, needs to splined not hex and needs to be a quality
make or it might split the socket.
Thanks Master of Puppets. I am going to have a go at this. I have a half inch breaker bar, but originally ordered a 21mm 12 point socket, which is too big. I have attempted to measure the widest part, which seem to be 20mm so I am going to try a 19mm 12 pocket socket.the smallest size that will fit over it and then choose the next size down from that, needs to splined not hex and needs to be a quality
make or it might split the socket.
I just wanted to confirm a couple of things.
1) That I should be aiming to get the socket over the darker protrusions (circled in the picture), rather than the lighter metal.
2) That there definitely isn't a "shear head" locking nut (as I don't want to risk making matters worse if it is)
3) To install the new locking nuts (McGuard standard locking nuts), I think that the correct torque for a 2L Mondeo TDCI Hatchback is 130-140Nm. Are you able to confirm if that is correct please?
Any further advice on the above would be greatly appreciated.
thumbsnap.com/66nX9MZT
NOTE: Again I can't directly link the above image (as a new member).
They look like Febi ones to me
try something like
https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/3291/Locking-...
or
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Grip-Remover-E...
try something like
https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/3291/Locking-...
or
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Grip-Remover-E...
stevemcs said:
They look like Febi ones to me
try something like
https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/3291/Locking-...
I have similar to the Laser ones (set of 4 from memory) they were purchased when a Vauxhall Opel 3locking wheel bolt sheared it's pins and left me a little stuck - as you hammer them over (Use an impact gun ext piece) the turn and bite into the wheel bolttry something like
https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/3291/Locking-...
I've used them maybe 5 or 6 times since on "Oh f
k I've lost the locking wheel bolt key" cases for work colleagues an they've not been defeated so I rate them highly but the other ones you linked to I have used on rusty bolt heads that couldn't be cut off due to restricted accessColdPudding said:
I just wanted to confirm a couple of things.
1) That I should be aiming to get the socket over the darker protrusions (circled in the picture), rather than the lighter metal.
2) That there definitely isn't a "shear head" locking nut (as I don't want to risk making matters worse if it is)
3) To install the new locking nuts (McGuard standard locking nuts), I think that the correct torque for a 2L Mondeo TDCI Hatchback is 130-140Nm. Are you able to confirm if that is correct please?
Any further advice on the above would be greatly appreciated.
thumbsnap.com/66nX9MZT
1. You need to get it to bite where you will be able to apply significant torque, so yes, on the "serrations/castellations/whatever you want to call them" on the nut flanks.1) That I should be aiming to get the socket over the darker protrusions (circled in the picture), rather than the lighter metal.
2) That there definitely isn't a "shear head" locking nut (as I don't want to risk making matters worse if it is)
3) To install the new locking nuts (McGuard standard locking nuts), I think that the correct torque for a 2L Mondeo TDCI Hatchback is 130-140Nm. Are you able to confirm if that is correct please?
Any further advice on the above would be greatly appreciated.
thumbsnap.com/66nX9MZT
2. If there were a "shear head" whenever you bolt the wheel on the head would shear & you would need a specialist just to remove the wheel, so no.
3. Google should find that answer quite quickly, but someone may be along shortly who knows that off the top of their head.
rev-erend said:
Just take it to a tyre fitters. They do this all the time.
Thanks rev-erend. That is what I expected, but it doesn't seem to be the case for me.The locks were fitted by a branch of Hi-Q, and they say that they can't remove them because they "don't have the right equipment". I am also due to get some tyres fitted at ATS Euromaster, and they have also told me exactly the same thing (even though it means that I keep having to delay the fitting appointment).
I have called around, and almost nobody seems to want the work. There is one place a few miles away that have said that they might be able to do it next week (£75 + VAT and 1 hours work), but I will try myself in meantime and I really want to get the tyres fitted asap.
The garage that I have found seems to be the only place around here that will take on "non-standard" work. I needed a repair to the driver's seat a couple of years back, and everywhere I called said "we don't do seats", until this garage took on the job.

Edited by ColdPudding on Monday 11th December 19:52
E-bmw said:
1. You need to get it to bite where you will be able to apply significant torque, so yes, on the "serrations/castellations/whatever you want to call them" on the nut flanks.
2. If there were a "shear head" whenever you bolt the wheel on the head would shear & you would need a specialist just to remove the wheel, so no.
3. Google should find that answer quite quickly, but someone may be along shortly who knows that off the top of their head.
Thanks E-bmw. My sources at Google have suggested to me that it is 130-140Nm, but just hoped that I might be able to get an opinion on here too. 2. If there were a "shear head" whenever you bolt the wheel on the head would shear & you would need a specialist just to remove the wheel, so no.
3. Google should find that answer quite quickly, but someone may be along shortly who knows that off the top of their head.

soad said:
tyresonthedrive.com/services/locking-wheel-nut-removal
Thanks soad. I will bear them in mind, if I can't do it myself or if there is a problem with the garage I have found. I'm a bit confused by the site, but it seems that they might only do it as an add on service if they are fitting your new tyres. But at least they actually do it!Halfords said:
"What does our mobile locking wheel nut service include? Lost your locking wheel nut key? Locking wheel nut damaged? Fear not. For £70 we can remove up to 4 locking wheel nuts as part of our tyre repair or replacement service. Simply type your car registration and postcode into our tyre search tool and choose your replacement tyres. We’ll then fit them."
Would be a bit of a pain, if they don't offer it as a separate service, will I will keep them as a backup. Thanks.Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


