Seized handbrake advice

[Phil.]

Left my car on the drive while I was away for several weeks. Handbrake applied as lightly as possible. Came to move it today and it was stuck fast. I used forward and reverse gears until it broke free. Only drove it a few yards because of a nasty clanging noise at the rear in both forward and reverse.

I’m assuming it’s the handbrake rather than the disc brakes? Car fairly new. What have I broken and how can I check/repair?

[InitialDave]

What car is it? The handbrake design will influence the suggestions.

[Phil.]

A 72’ plate GR Yaris.

[littleredrooster]

Pads have just stuck to the disc with standing. Take it out somewhere quiet and do several hard stops from 60mph. It will be fine - my MX-5 is exactly the same if I leave it for a week, even without the handbrake being left on.

Alternative view: Your car is now knackered and worthless, but I am willing to take it off your hands with an MX-5 as a straight swap...

[NFT]

If its type of rear caliper that has handbrake cable to it , then pulls a little spring returned lever.

You likely need some lube to clean spring and under the lever where it pivots on & off on the caliper, and a bit of force to work caliper handbrake lever/arm on and off. (on caliper, using say a little round end spanner over the tip of little lever to work on & off, or taps with hammer)

Handbrake cable could be seized in its sheathing, but commonly the handbrake lever has gunk & stuff under it, spring also and cleaning it all makes it work and return to off and work again.

If cold weather related, spray it with wd40 etc if dirt & gung has frozen spring and pivot lever/arm freezing it solid.

Edited by NFT on Monday 11th December 20:57

[BertBert]

NFT said:

If its type of rear caliper that has handbrake cable to it , then pulls a little spring returned lever.

You likely need some lube to clean spring and under the lever where it pivots on & off on the caliper, and a bit of force to work caliper handbrake lever/arm on and off. (on caliper, using say a little round end spanner over the tip of little lever to work on & off, or taps with hammer)

Handbrake cable could be seized in its sheathing, but commonly the handbrake lever has gunk & stuff under it, spring also and cleaning it all makes it work and return to off and work again.

If cold weather related, spray it with wd40 etc if dirt & gung has frozen spring and pivot lever/arm freezing it solid.

Edited by NFT on Monday 11th December 20:57

Are you sure on a 72 plate GR Yaris?

[littleredrooster]

BertBert said:

NFT said:

If its type of rear caliper that has handbrake cable to it , then pulls a little spring returned lever.

You likely need some lube to clean spring and under the lever where it pivots on & off on the caliper, and a bit of force to work caliper handbrake lever/arm on and off. (on caliper, using say a little round end spanner over the tip of little lever to work on & off, or taps with hammer)

Handbrake cable could be seized in its sheathing, but commonly the handbrake lever has gunk & stuff under it, spring also and cleaning it all makes it work and return to off and work again.

If cold weather related, spray it with wd40 etc if dirt & gung has frozen spring and pivot lever/arm freezing it solid.

Edited by NFT on Monday 11th December 20:57

Are you sure on a 72 plate GR Yaris?

I was going to be slightly less polite...

[InitialDave]

The GR Yaris uses a mini-drum inside the disc bell for the handbrake, so it could be something has stuck/corroded in place there, or it could also be the pads on the regular brake have done the same to the disc.

One thing I have had with some handbrakes is if you have the brake stuck on, and you release the handbrake, the cable has enough slack in it that it unhooks from where it's retained and no longer actuates on one side. It is possible if this has happened that could be your noise.

Easy to check, just jack it up and see if the handbrake is no longer operating on one side.

It's the best part of a year ago now that I had one apart, so I can't remember precisely how the cable etc is set up, sorry.

[NFT]

littleredrooster said:

BertBert said:

NFT said:

If its type of rear caliper that has handbrake cable to it , then pulls a little spring returned lever.

You likely need some lube to clean spring and under the lever where it pivots on & off on the caliper, and a bit of force to work caliper handbrake lever/arm on and off. (on caliper, using say a little round end spanner over the tip of little lever to work on & off, or taps with hammer)

Handbrake cable could be seized in its sheathing, but commonly the handbrake lever has gunk & stuff under it, spring also and cleaning it all makes it work and return to off and work again.

If cold weather related, spray it with wd40 etc if dirt & gung has frozen spring and pivot lever/arm freezing it solid.

Edited by NFT on Monday 11th December 20:57

Are you sure on a 72 plate GR Yaris?

I was going to be slightly less polite...

I did start with "If", to be read as "in the event that", everything following being my best attempt to help having no clue working on that car.

[BertBert]

NFT said:

littleredrooster said:

BertBert said:

NFT said:

If its type of rear caliper that has handbrake cable to it , then pulls a little spring returned lever.

You likely need some lube to clean spring and under the lever where it pivots on & off on the caliper, and a bit of force to work caliper handbrake lever/arm on and off. (on caliper, using say a little round end spanner over the tip of little lever to work on & off, or taps with hammer)

Handbrake cable could be seized in its sheathing, but commonly the handbrake lever has gunk & stuff under it, spring also and cleaning it all makes it work and return to off and work again.

If cold weather related, spray it with wd40 etc if dirt & gung has frozen spring and pivot lever/arm freezing it solid.

Edited by NFT on Monday 11th December 20:57

Are you sure on a 72 plate GR Yaris?

I was going to be slightly less polite...

I did start with "If", to be read as "in the event that", everything following being my best attempt to help having no clue working on that car.

You miss the point. We are not questioning the type of mechanism. We are questioning why you think there is a mechanical problem on such a new car? It's almost certainly the brake material sticking to the friction surface. Disc or drum.

[Phil.]

InitialDave said:

The GR Yaris uses a mini-drum inside the disc bell for the handbrake, so it could be something has stuck/corroded in place there, or it could also be the pads on the regular brake have done the same to the disc.

One thing I have had with some handbrakes is if you have the brake stuck on, and you release the handbrake, the cable has enough slack in it that it unhooks from where it's retained and no longer actuates on one side. It is possible if this has happened that could be your noise.

Easy to check, just jack it up and see if the handbrake is no longer operating on one side.

It's the best part of a year ago now that I had one apart, so I can't remember precisely how the cable etc is set up, sorry.

I can jack up the rear end and check if the handbrake is operating on one side. If it isn’t what is the next step?

[Phil.]

BertBert said:

You miss the point. We are not questioning the type of mechanism. We are questioning why you think there is a mechanical problem on such a new car? It's almost certainly the brake material sticking to the friction surface. Disc or drum.

What’s the difference in terms of how to fix the issue if it’s disc or drum? It’s making a proper clanging noise when driven and not something I feel confident to drive very far.

[InitialDave]

Phil. said:

I can jack up the rear end and check if the handbrake is operating on one side. If it isn’t what is the next step?

On a 72 plate car? I'd take it to Toyota and tell them to fix it.

[Phil.]

BertBert said:

You miss the point. We are not questioning the type of mechanism. We are questioning why you think there is a mechanical problem on such a new car? It's almost certainly the brake material sticking to the friction surface. Disc or drum.

What’s the difference in terms of how to fix the issue if it’s disc or drum? It’s making a proper clanging noise when driven and not something I feel confident to drive very far.

[BertBert]

Phil. said:

What’s the difference in terms of how to fix the issue if it’s disc or drum? It’s making a proper clanging noise when driven and not something I feel confident to drive very far.

As InitialDave said. Easiest to take it to Toyota. It's very hard to diagnose over the internet!

[Maxdecel]

A picture might help to understand what's likely happened

It's referred to as "Sticktion" the metallic content in the shoe material rusts (more so if driven in the wet with little use of the service brake) When you rocked the car it's likely the shoes have pulled away from the abutments damaging a part of the mechanism.
The other possibility a lining has come off due to the sheer force, that normally locks the brake solid as it wedges in the drum and as that's not the case it's unlikely.
From what I've gathered above this should be a warranty job, I assume there isn't an instruction about parking for a lengthy period in the handbook ?

[Phil.]

Maxdecel said:

A picture might help to understand what's likely happened

It's referred to as "Sticktion" the metallic content in the shoe material rusts (more so if driven in the wet with little use of the service brake) When you rocked the car it's likely the shoes have pulled away from the abutments damaging a part of the mechanism.
The other possibility a lining has come off due to the sheer force, that normally locks the brake solid as it wedges in the drum and as that's not the case it's unlikely.
From what I've gathered above this should be a warranty job, I assume there isn't an instruction about parking for a lengthy period in the handbook ?

Thank you for taking the time to respond.

I think you are correct. Is it safe to carefully drive the car to the dealer approx. 20 mins away?

[Maxdecel]

I'm afraid I can't say, If ....? it's part of / all the lining that's broken away and until now you've been lucky it may jam up with further use. IF it's some parts that are now loose in the drum of the disc then it's unlikely to stop the wheel rotating but nowt's guaranteed I'm afraid.
I'd suggest with the age of the car you contact the dealer and ask what they're prepared to do about it, the fault has nothing to do with misuse.
Is recovery included in the warranty ? I imagine it will be like a lot of manufacturers.

[Phil.]

Booked in for next Monday. They won’t accept it’s warranty work until they see it which is reasonable but I’ve let them know that with only 800 miles on the clock it’s not going to be wear and tear. It’s costing me £95 to get it low loaded to dealer.

[Dynion Araf Uchaf]

Phil. said:

What’s the difference in terms of how to fix the issue if it’s disc or drum? It’s making a proper clanging noise when driven and not something I feel confident to drive very far.

if its a drum brake thats stuck. Hit the back of it hard with a hammer a couple of times ( both sides) that'll knock any stickiness out of the drum