radiator grill mesh

[jchase]

There are a few old topics on this, but no conclusions, so I thought I'd start a new thread.

Now, My 350i has a bit of wire mesh 850x200mm in front of the radiator, which is very rusty and a bit loose. The wire diameter is 1.0mm and aperture 2.3mm, which is a number 8 mesh , apparently. Anyway I found a supplier of stainless mesh ( 0.9 x 2.28) , but they only want to sell me £80 worth. So does anyone else want to get some, to save on the cost? ( I am assuming everyone needs the same size, which is a bit hopeful I know) would be around £20.

-Jim

[york33]

I'm not after any, but if you don't get any takers you could just get some from somewhere like Demon Tweeks. IIRC that's where mine was from and was £20 ish, though is a much denser (is that the right word) mesh than original.

[Number 7]

I got some from a garden centre - 1.25mm thick, 5.5mm square i.d., think its galvanised, a lot less than £20.

7.

[jmorgan]

B+Q sell meshed stuff, if its any help.

[jchase]

Can you tell me the aperture and wire size from the Demon Tweeks mesh - I guess you are talking about the 'ME4' part. I want to stick with the 2.3mm aperture if I can, as this seems to have stopped most of the flies/ bugs ets from reaching the radiator.

-Jim

[york33]

Actually, I lied, just checked, it was from Europa and was £30.

https://secure.visav.co.uk/avshop/products.asp?getcats=true&cat=42

It's a diamond shaped apperture and is 6.5mmx2.5mm, measured corner to corner. Looking at it, you'd struggle to get any significant debris through. The original rusty item had more like a 20mm aperture.

cheers
Dave

[wedgienauld]

If you order some, I'd appreciate if you'd count me in on the order - is it the same wire for the ram air brake vents and the vents on the bonnet of a late 390?

If so then I'll need more in order to replace these also.

[dickymint]

I fitted some ally mesh from Halfrauds, - the chavvy stuff with round holes. Done it for BBWF2004. Removed it as soon as the temperature gauge hit 98C
Be warned and take Jims advice on mesh size.

>> Edited by dickymint on Friday 30th September 07:45

[Gerry Attrick]

Agree. It's amazing how much resistance the grill can give to the air flow. I put a fine mesh (3mm aperture x 1mm wire) on mine after I replaced the radiator, as I didn't want a stone knackering it. The temperature gauge shot up and even keeping the fans on all the time couldn't control the temperatue in an ambient of 15 degC. I now use a 10mm aperture, and it's fine. Got it from B&Q - enough for two cars for about a fiver.

[jchase]

Hi Wedgienauld,

Only need two more of us then to get some bling fly screen! I wire brushed a pint of flies off my grill and re-riveted it to the very rusty angle. The fan stays on for much less time now when idling on the drive!

Gerry, you had problems with the 8 mesh size? what engine size do you have? mine seems to run fine (a FHC 350i). I was worried that a larger mesh would allow the radiator to become a fly mausaleum.

-Jim

[JR]

Gerry Attrick said:

Agree. It's amazing how much resistance the grill can give to the air flow. I put a fine mesh (3mm aperture x 1mm wire) on mine after I replaced the radiator, as I didn't want a stone knackering it. The temperature gauge shot up and even keeping the fans on all the time couldn't control the temperatue in an ambient of 15 degC. I now use a 10mm aperture, and it's fine. Got it from B&Q - enough for two cars for about a fiver.

Yep. Most cars had the 10mm grid originally. IMHO 2.3 is far too fine to allow for full cooling.

[jchase]

Hmmm. <Dons deer-stalker hat...>

Looking at the radiator on my 350i FHC, line of sight gives about 2 inches of cooling fins exposed to the free flow - gut feeling says this ain't gonna work.

Now I don't know what TVR did to the other wedges, as I was not standing by the factory gate at the time, but on mine there is a large gap above the mesh behind the bumper. The mesh only covers the free stream exposed part of the radiator. (The bug killing and stone catching zone ).
It might just be that the number 8 mesh stagnates the air flow somewhat at high speed so some air gets directed upwards through the gap behind the bumper and to the top of the radiator.

<removes deer-stalker hat>

Just trying to gauge if this gap is important, not trying to belittle anyone

dickymint and Gerry Attrick, do you have this gap or is the entire intake covered in the mesh? and were the overheating problems at speed or stationary?

-Jim

[adam quantrill]

Yeah but - on an F1 car there is a bl**dy great sheet of carbon fiber in front of the radiator intake....

I suppose you don't need a huge gap to let in sufficient air. Once inside, it slows down and hits the radiator.

Even on the other side of the radiator it's moving at a reasonable speed. How do I know that? 'Cos on my old white wedge I fitted a 12V pea bulb in one of the spare instrument light holes, connected to the fan to see when it cut in.

Howver, on a fast cruise, the bulb would glow dimly because the fan motor was acting as a dynamo...

[jchase]

Ah, but on a typical F1 car, the side pods are in a high speed LOW pressure stream, so you have to stagnate the flow, or the air would be sucked the wrong way out the side pods.

(I think that is how it works, but I didn't do so great in my Thermofluids paper...)

-jim