Discussion
Not wanting, to hijack the front dam removal thread.
"@ Wedg1e. As it happens I was in there on my car this afternoon as I remembered I had a pod issue - they'd raise OK but when lowering one would start to move then drop like a stone: classic symptom of the nylon gear being stripped (and that's exactly what it was, luckily I had a spare)."
That's interesting about the gear wearing, Mine goes halfway down then drops the rest. Probably the least of my worries in reality.
By chance are the gears available? or do you have any idea what are they off?
Many thanks
"@ Wedg1e. As it happens I was in there on my car this afternoon as I remembered I had a pod issue - they'd raise OK but when lowering one would start to move then drop like a stone: classic symptom of the nylon gear being stripped (and that's exactly what it was, luckily I had a spare)."
That's interesting about the gear wearing, Mine goes halfway down then drops the rest. Probably the least of my worries in reality.
By chance are the gears available? or do you have any idea what are they off?
Many thanks
Assuming someone hasn't swapped the motors, they were originally ex-TR7/ Lotus Esprit (Not the Elite as that used vacuum servos).
They come up on ebay, beware of 'refurbished' ones that have had nothing done but a coat of paint. Also you'll see the TR7 pod complete apart from its motor; nothing besides the motor and crank arm were used by TVR so don't waste your money. Of course if you can find a pod complete with motor and the price is right, get it bought
The pods themselves don't tend to stick but it wouldn't be impossible, if they hadn't moved in years, for the pivot bolts to rust into the captive bosses in the bodyshell.
Often it's water ingress around the 'output' shaft that corrodes the shaft and makes it seize in the bushes, so the motor happily tries to turn the nylon wheel but can't so removes the teeth instead.
I've never seen the nylon gear listed as a spare anywhere, I'm sure they could be replicated (probably in the US where there still quite a few TR7s about). You could gash one from a blank but I doubt 3D printing would be robust enough (maybe one of the exotic resins?) - and of course someone would need to work out the helix angle etc. etc.
A point concerning the pods: they are mounted on two bolts (as you see in the photo on the other thread) which pass through bosses in the pod and thread into captive fixings in the bodshell. Because the bolts need to be lock-wired to the pod (otherwise they'll unscrew and fall out), it means that the bolts turn with the pod, so one screws in and one screws out (if that makes sense) - only about half a turn, but in effect the pod moves a small amount sideways. This isn't a problem if you adjust the bolts so the pod's pretty well centred in the recess, but get too far to one side and the pod will grind itself into your paintwork.
A further point, while my coffee's cooling... the link rod between pod and motor only sets the closing level (i.e. to get the pod flush when down), it's the length of the cranked arm that determines ho high it lifts. If you wind up the link rod for extra height it won't close flush.
There were different lengths of cranked arm, interestingly, the dimension being stamped into the arm... I think the Esprit used a shorter one (it had twin 5-3/4" headlamps so the pods didnt need to come up as far to expose them).
They come up on ebay, beware of 'refurbished' ones that have had nothing done but a coat of paint. Also you'll see the TR7 pod complete apart from its motor; nothing besides the motor and crank arm were used by TVR so don't waste your money. Of course if you can find a pod complete with motor and the price is right, get it bought
The pods themselves don't tend to stick but it wouldn't be impossible, if they hadn't moved in years, for the pivot bolts to rust into the captive bosses in the bodyshell.
Often it's water ingress around the 'output' shaft that corrodes the shaft and makes it seize in the bushes, so the motor happily tries to turn the nylon wheel but can't so removes the teeth instead.
I've never seen the nylon gear listed as a spare anywhere, I'm sure they could be replicated (probably in the US where there still quite a few TR7s about). You could gash one from a blank but I doubt 3D printing would be robust enough (maybe one of the exotic resins?) - and of course someone would need to work out the helix angle etc. etc.
A point concerning the pods: they are mounted on two bolts (as you see in the photo on the other thread) which pass through bosses in the pod and thread into captive fixings in the bodshell. Because the bolts need to be lock-wired to the pod (otherwise they'll unscrew and fall out), it means that the bolts turn with the pod, so one screws in and one screws out (if that makes sense) - only about half a turn, but in effect the pod moves a small amount sideways. This isn't a problem if you adjust the bolts so the pod's pretty well centred in the recess, but get too far to one side and the pod will grind itself into your paintwork.
A further point, while my coffee's cooling... the link rod between pod and motor only sets the closing level (i.e. to get the pod flush when down), it's the length of the cranked arm that determines ho high it lifts. If you wind up the link rod for extra height it won't close flush.
There were different lengths of cranked arm, interestingly, the dimension being stamped into the arm... I think the Esprit used a shorter one (it had twin 5-3/4" headlamps so the pods didnt need to come up as far to expose them).
Edited by Wedg1e on Sunday 7th April 14:10
The motors are from a TR7. Robsport sells a complete pod for £40ish
Note these motors from Robsport may or may not work but are good for parts.
https://robsport.co.uk/online-shop/product/7395-he...
Note these motors from Robsport may or may not work but are good for parts.
https://robsport.co.uk/online-shop/product/7395-he...
Many thanks for the tips, I have had the pods exposed last MOT as they were playing up at that point.
The locking wire had disappeared, and the earth was corroded, so that may have contributed. I never use them, it is purely for the MOT, so will leave them at the moment, to concentrate on the running and door latching.
Yes you are correct about the rose arm joint, adjusting them either makes the pod too high or just below flush, I found.
Seems like a lot of things on the car, they have been in a poor state for a long time.
It is a case of keeping it going rather than restoring it, I guess it makes the car an honest used example.
I never thought of looking at Rob Sport, I have used them on numerous occasions, water pump, clutch friction plate, etc. They are not that far from me, I normally pop in to get my bits.
I will have to have a good look into it at some point, along with the multitude of other bits
.
The locking wire had disappeared, and the earth was corroded, so that may have contributed. I never use them, it is purely for the MOT, so will leave them at the moment, to concentrate on the running and door latching.
Yes you are correct about the rose arm joint, adjusting them either makes the pod too high or just below flush, I found.
Seems like a lot of things on the car, they have been in a poor state for a long time.
It is a case of keeping it going rather than restoring it, I guess it makes the car an honest used example.
I never thought of looking at Rob Sport, I have used them on numerous occasions, water pump, clutch friction plate, etc. They are not that far from me, I normally pop in to get my bits.
I will have to have a good look into it at some point, along with the multitude of other bits
.In case you're bored, haven't seen it or it might come in useful [delete as appropriate] there's a bit of pod motor blurb on my webbie:
http://wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p6.htm
About a paragraph in there's a link to a Powerpoint of a motor being stripped; the photos are dreadful but it might help anyone who hasn't done the job before. Must reshoot the photos...
Reading that reminds me that Reliant aso used the ex-TR7 motors on the SS1. Not that there are exactly loads of those around these days...
http://wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p6.htm
About a paragraph in there's a link to a Powerpoint of a motor being stripped; the photos are dreadful but it might help anyone who hasn't done the job before. Must reshoot the photos...
Reading that reminds me that Reliant aso used the ex-TR7 motors on the SS1. Not that there are exactly loads of those around these days...
Edited by Wedg1e on Monday 8th April 11:12
Hi yes thanks, I used that last MOT, when 1 decided not to rise to the occasion, did 5 mins before. Very helpful at the time cheers. It rises OK, so that's the main thing. Next MOT not for a while.
I also used this, as you say TR7/8 is similar:
http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/wedgelab/other/head...
I also used this, as you say TR7/8 is similar:
http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/wedgelab/other/head...
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