Some Advise on 17" tyres and Steering Racks

[j8 tro]

Hi
Just need some advise please
Just got a set of 17" rims and need some back tyres. Im guessing 225/45/17 to keep near to standard rr as possible. 235's if desired. any one advise of what they have?

Also i just failed my MOT on a loose steering rack! any body out there advise me on a cost for a new one? what car its designed for or possible other things it could be.

Oh and i also need to remove my headlights to clean the insides. they are filthy, but i dont know where to start.

Ive looked on the search feature but couldnt find what i needed.

Thanks in advance

Jay

[JR]

What width of rims did you buy? 8"?

[j8 tro]

Its a 7.5"

[tahiti450]

Have you got a copy of the bible? If so check the tyre chart for equivalent rolling circumferences of tyre sizes (also various ones on the web). Oh hang on i'll have a lookat mine..... : Assuming you were runnning 225/50/16 at the rear; equivalents for 17" rim would be:

225/45 (+0%) 235/45 (+2%) 245/40 (-1%) 255/40 (+1%).

If you've got 7.5" rims you'll be limited to 235 as a maximum width really, if 8" you might get a 255 on (though it depends a bit on the actual brand / model of tyre).

PS. why should the fact that the rack is loose mean that it needs replacing ???!!! please enlarge...

>> Edited by tahiti450 on Monday 12th September 23:51

[JR]

As above the 225/45 and the 235/45 will be your only choices for the rear (percentages will vary depending on whether you had 225/50/16 or 225/55/16 originally.)
What are you running on the front? 215/40s?

[paul garabette]

I've got 235/45 17 on my rear 7.5 inch wheels, which was the closest to the size of the original fit on my car.

I'll be interested in what you find out re the steering rack as when I had my last MOT there was an advice item of play in the o/s steering rack.

As for the lights, if I remember rightly you will need to take off the "cowl" by removing the grill and reaching through the front to indo the two nuts holding it on. It may also be stuck on with sealant. Then you should be able to remove the glass to clean behind it.

Paul

[Bomber Denton]

I use 215/40x17 front and 235/40x17 rear.

Works perfectly!

[supaspark]

Bomber Denton said:

I use 215/40x17 front and 235/40x17 rear. Works perfectly!

And It looks the Boloshes....

[j8 tro]

To advise further and clarify the comments on the MOT are as follows.

1. Steering control - Fail - NSF Shock absorber leaking. (If any one can help please do!)

2. Steering Mechanism - Fail - Excessive movement in steering, suspect lower U/J by steering rack.

3. As above - Excessive movement in steering rack

4. Brakes - Fail - Brake imbalance, service brakes.
-----NS / OS-----------NS / OS
F - 278 / 329 = 74% R 144 / 129 = 23%
R - 152 / 143

Im going to get the brakes checked at chemex to night (free service so im told) can any one advise further. I know enough mechanical stuff to get me by but this is beyond me.

[Bomber Denton]

j8 tro said:

To advise further and clarify the comments on the MOT are as follows. 1. Steering control - Fail - NSF Shock absorber leaking. (If any one can help please do!) 2. Steering Mechanism - Fail - Excessive movement in steering, suspect lower U/J by steering rack. 3. As above - Excessive movement in steering rack 4. Brakes - Fail - Brake imbalance, service brakes. -----NS / OS-----------NS / OS F - 278 / 329 = 74% R 144 / 129 = 23% R - 152 / 143 Im going to get the brakes checked at chemex to night (free service so im told) can any one advise further. I know enough mechanical stuff to get me by but this is beyond me.

I'm an MOT tester and this sounds a bit suss to me? You cannot fail a shock absorber for leaking alone, the shock has to have negligible damping effort and with the springs on these beasties it would be hard to really tell without driving the car.
The second thing is the comment on the 'suspect U.J.' To fail a vehicle you need to be sure what the problem is, you cannot fail a vehicle on something you 'suspect', it needs to be attributed to the part that has movement and then it has to be showing the signs that the component could fail completely otherwise you are instructed to 'Pass and advise'

Hope this helps?

[j8 tro]

Corin
Thanks for the advise. What is the deal with brake imballance. i understand what has been writen on the MOT. nearside front and rear etc. i presume the numbers equate to some sort of braking force. should these be equal equal? by having a difference of 50(lbs?) is this a major issue or not?

[Bomber Denton]

j8 tro said:

Corin Thanks for the advise. What is the deal with brake imballance. i understand what has been writen on the MOT. nearside front and rear etc. i presume the numbers equate to some sort of braking force. should these be equal equal? by having a difference of 50(lbs?) is this a major issue or not?

The way it works is that you calculate the braking force in kg against the eight of the car, it has to be a certain percentage to pass.

The imbalance means that one side is working better than the other. Assuming the brakes are in generally good order this is generally one of either two things, air in one of the lines reducing pressure, or a caliper sticking.

The first can be rectified by bleeding the brakes, the second by removing the caliper from it's mount cleaning the sliders and making sure the piston moves freely.

Worst case scenario is that you may need a caliper but this is rare on these cars.

My advice, buy a set of Goodridge braided brakelines, not expensive (£40) will improve pedal no end and system will be bled after. Just make sure you check the calipers.

[j8 tro]

Had mine upgraded to the braided lines about 2 months ago. I'ts in the local garage now getting it checked out. I hope its just air in the system then.
thanks for the advise.