Discussion
Depends on the bike/model etc. Generally speaking, youll need a big old socket set, a paddock stand, an allen key (preferrably the type that go into a ratchet) or 12/14mm, spanner to remove the rear caliper (makes it easier to put the wheel back on). A mate to help will also make it easier as you need to get the back wheel aligned with the spindle hole, and keep it still while you push the spindle through.
If you're anywhere near Salisbury, Wiltshire, send me an email and you can bring it over to my place and ill give you a hand. I have all the tools you're likely to need too.
If you're anywhere near Salisbury, Wiltshire, send me an email and you can bring it over to my place and ill give you a hand. I have all the tools you're likely to need too.
Mad Dave said:
Depends on the bike/model etc. Generally speaking, youll need a big old socket set, a paddock stand, an allen key (preferrably the type that go into a ratchet) or 12/14mm, spanner to remove the rear caliper (makes it easier to put the wheel back on). A mate to help will also make it easier as you need to get the back wheel aligned with the spindle hole, and keep it still while you push the spindle through.
If you're anywhere near Salisbury, Wiltshire, send me an email and you can bring it over to my place and ill give you a hand. I have all the tools you're likely to need too.
Mate, that's a quality offer, but Essex I'm afraid...Thanks though.
Got Allen keys, and hopefully pick up a stand tonight or in the morning. Perhaps not a job for me on my own then??!!
Honestly, if you have the slightest ounce of mechanical logic, it's a piece of cake mate. Just look at the mechanisms involved carefully and place everything down carefully upon removal, in the order it came off. There are no springs or anything to ping off, so all you have to worry about is putting the brake caliper bolts back on properly (threadlock them). Also, check that removing the wheel doesn't throw the whole wheel alignment thing out - it shouldn't do.
You shouldn't really need to remove the rear wheel to clean stuff up. Get it up on the stand and you should be able to get to most bits, even if it involves cleaning a bit and then turning the wheel. If you do want to take the wheel off, post up a photo of the right hand side of the swingarm, so that I can see the spindle and caliper mounts and ill tell you how to remove/refit it.
re Cheddar - keeping an eye on the thread with interest, but i'm busy 24/25 September and 1/2 October so those two weekends are out
I'm up for coming along if I can though!
re Cheddar - keeping an eye on the thread with interest, but i'm busy 24/25 September and 1/2 October so those two weekends are out
I'm up for coming along if I can though!The caliper isn't always a big deal. Only this morning I had the back off for a dreaded puncture. The caliper locates on a lug on the inside of the swingarm and its fixed in place by the axle passing through it when everything's back together.
Its worth knowing how to do it if you ever suffer a puncture. A Haynes manual or similar might help if you're not too confident?
I can honestly say i've never used a torque wrench. That said, I did have rear caliper bolt work loose and destroy caliper, pads, disk and caliper mount, so maybe my logic isn't the best 
I didn't loctite the bolts though, so that should explain it.
re Removing caliper - you don't strictly need to, but trying to get the disk to slide neatly between the pads on re-assembly can be a headache. Not as bad as the fronts, but still a pain in the arse. It's infinately easier just to whip the rear caliper off the mounts, though remember to bungee it up to something as you dont want it hanging from the brake line.
I didn't loctite the bolts though, so that should explain it. re Removing caliper - you don't strictly need to, but trying to get the disk to slide neatly between the pads on re-assembly can be a headache. Not as bad as the fronts, but still a pain in the arse. It's infinately easier just to whip the rear caliper off the mounts, though remember to bungee it up to something as you dont want it hanging from the brake line.
Mad Dave said:
I can honestly say i've never used a torque wrench.
If you used one you'd be surprised how little force some things require to be done up to spec.
I'd cheerfully bludgeon any of the previous owners of any of my cars to death with my torque wrench many times over for overtightening nuts and bolts especially when they shear off stud flush with the engine block.
Do it properly or don't do it at all is my view on these things. Your safety and possibly the safety (or sanity) of the guy who buys the bike/car from you can easily depend on it.
Mark
>> Edited by dern on Friday 16th September 18:12
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