Front crank / aircon pulley 32mm bolt removal!!
Discussion
Right, I'm getting ready to be shot down in flames here….
What I've done on the past with RV8's, A series engines and a few others is brace a socket on the front crank bolt with a breaker bar (don't use a normal ratchet) against the ground and give the starter a quick flick - it's never failed to work.
(You need to make sure you brace it on the correct side - you don't want the bar spinning up away from the ground and torwards your P&J)
BUT there might be a good reason not to do this on the Cerbera, get some opinions first as it might be threaded in a different direction or another TVR specific reason that I don't know about…….
>> Edited by duke thrust on Tuesday 20th September 15:08
What I've done on the past with RV8's, A series engines and a few others is brace a socket on the front crank bolt with a breaker bar (don't use a normal ratchet) against the ground and give the starter a quick flick - it's never failed to work.
(You need to make sure you brace it on the correct side - you don't want the bar spinning up away from the ground and torwards your P&J)
BUT there might be a good reason not to do this on the Cerbera, get some opinions first as it might be threaded in a different direction or another TVR specific reason that I don't know about…….
>> Edited by duke thrust on Tuesday 20th September 15:08
Cheers guys, finally got it off yesterday after heating it through a few cycles with an oxy torch!! Also fabricated a huge steel c-spanner to lock the air con pulley solid. Just got to get the head bolts off now...hmmmmm...... Discovered the reason for the cars massive oil consumption was the intake valve guide on the number 8 cylinder has slipped up into the head.. Ah well, looking forward to a great day on Saturday, please don't be alarmed to see a red MR2 turbo taging onto any Cerb convoys on the A1 northbound on saturday morning, its my support vehicle while my Cerb is being rebuilt!!!
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