Replacement car key battery

[robdex1]

Have a Honda jazz 57 reg. the remote stopped working on the key a while back so I’ve just been using the key in the door lock. Now suddenly the lock isn’t working the key won’t go all the way in it’s getting stuck. Went to timpsons they changed the battery but it still wouldn’t work and he tested it and said the circuit board is gone. Can’t do it there only select stores do it and it’s £180 for new key with remote. Does that sound right is it worth shopping around might I get a better price

[Alickadoo]

If we knew where you lived we might be able to give you a local locksmith.

[robdex1]

Alickadoo said:

If we knew where you lived we might be able to give you a local locksmith.

Welwyn garden city Hertfordshire

[alscar]

Sounds a lot to me but no doubt post pandemic pricing etc. A quick Google search brings up a few names to check and you could also get a price from your local Honda dealer just to compare it to.

[No ideas for a name]

robdex1 said:

Have a Honda jazz 57 reg. the remote stopped working on the key a while back so I’ve just been using the key in the door lock. Now suddenly the lock isn’t working the key won’t go all the way in it’s getting stuck. Went to timpsons they changed the battery but it still wouldn’t work and he tested it and said the circuit board is gone. Can’t do it there only select stores do it and it’s £180 for new key with remote. Does that sound right is it worth shopping around might I get a better price

Unless I am misreading this, it makes no sense.

The key not going in all the way is obviously a mechanical issue... nothing to do with batteries or circuit boards.
No start if it was in the ignition barrel is a possibility, but generally the 'chip' is passive so doesn't need power.

If you are happy for the remote fob to not work (as at present), then it probably needs some lubrication or worst case a new lock barrel.

[E30M3SE]

robdex1 said:

Welwyn garden city Hertfordshire

Give Simon a call on 07768061413, he's a mobile automotive lock smith who will be able to help you out.

[texaxile]

No ideas for a name said:

Unless I am misreading this, it makes no sense.

The key not going in all the way is obviously a mechanical issue... nothing to do with batteries or circuit boards.
No start if it was in the ignition barrel is a possibility, but generally the 'chip' is passive so doesn't need power.

If you are happy for the remote fob to not work (as at present), then it probably needs some lubrication or worst case a new lock barrel.

I agree with the above, the physical key in the lock is a lubrication issue, it's probably dry, so squirt a generous measure of WD 40 into it and it should be Ok, unless someone has done the 90's revenge trick of supergluing a toothpick into the hole of the lock.

Regarding the central locking issue, probably the circuit board has gone, more that the button press aspect of it is buggered.

A car key of that era works thus (I think, but might be wrong) :

Key has a button which unlocks the car and disables the alarm. In the event of the circuit board getting lunched, locking and unlocking the car physically locks and unlocks it but does not arm the alarm system.

The key has a transponder which reacts passively to a signal sent from the ECU, when it gets a match, it lets the car start.

When the transponder chip in the keyfob is buggered = no start.

When the circuit board in the keyfob is buggered = no open with button but can start.

When the transponder chip and circuit board are buggered, = nothing.

You'll need to purchase a keyfob with the relevant circuit board, code it to the car and then get the transponder chip matched as well if it is in the same key.

Again:
Look on the help forums, because key fob match and transponder match in cars of that era are 2 different things. If you're midlands I can suggest a mustard hot bloke who's cheap and mobile.

[robdex1]

E30M3SE said:

robdex1 said:

Welwyn garden city Hertfordshire

Give Simon a call on 07768061413, he's a mobile automotive lock smith who will be able to help you out.

Sorry if I didn’t explain properly. I was using the remote fob until it stopped working, I didn’t get round to replacing the battery so was just using the key in the lock as I don’t have an alarm. Now there is an issue with the mechanical lock on the door the key is sticking. Tried wd40 but still won’t work. That is when I thought to get the battery replaced on the fob but then found out it still doesn’t work. So now my car is unlocked. It can’t be the key as it starts the ignition no problem

[robdex1]

texaxile said:

I agree with the above, the physical key in the lock is a lubrication issue, it's probably dry, so squirt a generous measure of WD 40 into it and it should be Ok, unless someone has done the 90's revenge trick of supergluing a toothpick into the hole of the lock.

Regarding the central locking issue, probably the circuit board has gone, more that the button press aspect of it is buggered.

A car key of that era works thus (I think, but might be wrong) :

Key has a button which unlocks the car and disables the alarm. In the event of the circuit board getting lunched, locking and unlocking the car physically locks and unlocks it but does not arm the alarm system.

The key has a transponder which reacts passively to a signal sent from the ECU, when it gets a match, it lets the car start.

When the transponder chip in the keyfob is buggered = no start.

When the circuit board in the keyfob is buggered = no open with button but can start.

When the transponder chip and circuit board are buggered, = nothing.

You'll need to purchase a keyfob with the relevant circuit board, code it to the car and then get the transponder chip matched as well if it is in the same key.

Again:
Look on the help forums, because key fob match and transponder match in cars of that era are 2 different things. If you're midlands I can suggest a mustard hot bloke who's cheap and mobile.

Tried wd40 but it doesn’t work. Key has been a bit tricky to go in from time to time. I have no alarm. I was told it was the circuit board and the car starts fine using the key

[robdex1]

texaxile said:

I agree with the above, the physical key in the lock is a lubrication issue, it's probably dry, so squirt a generous measure of WD 40 into it and it should be Ok, unless someone has done the 90's revenge trick of supergluing a toothpick into the hole of the lock.

Regarding the central locking issue, probably the circuit board has gone, more that the button press aspect of it is buggered.

A car key of that era works thus (I think, but might be wrong) :

Key has a button which unlocks the car and disables the alarm. In the event of the circuit board getting lunched, locking and unlocking the car physically locks and unlocks it but does not arm the alarm system.

The key has a transponder which reacts passively to a signal sent from the ECU, when it gets a match, it lets the car start.

When the transponder chip in the keyfob is buggered = no start.

When the circuit board in the keyfob is buggered = no open with button but can start.

When the transponder chip and circuit board are buggered, = nothing.

You'll need to purchase a keyfob with the relevant circuit board, code it to the car and then get the transponder chip matched as well if it is in the same key.

Again:
Look on the help forums, because key fob match and transponder match in cars of that era are 2 different things. If you're midlands I can suggest a mustard hot bloke who's cheap and mobile.

Tried wd40 but it doesn’t work. Key has been a bit tricky to go in from time to time. I have no alarm. I was told it was the circuit board and the car starts fine using the key

[robdex1]

Could a fix like this work?

https://www.instructables.com/car-key-fob-repair/

[robdex1]

E30M3SE said:

robdex1 said:

Welwyn garden city Hertfordshire

Give Simon a call on 07768061413, he's a mobile automotive lock smith who will be able to help you out.

Sorry if I didn’t explain properly. I was using the remote fob until it stopped working, I didn’t get round to replacing the battery so was just using the key in the lock as I don’t have an alarm. Now there is an issue with the mechanical lock on the door the key is sticking. Tried wd40 but still won’t work. That is when I thought to get the battery replaced on the fob but then found out it still doesn’t work. So now my car is unlocked. It can’t be the key as it starts the ignition no problem

[Alickadoo]

robdex1 said:

Tried wd40 but it doesn’t work. Key has been a bit tricky to go in from time to time. I have no alarm. I was told it was the circuit board and the car starts fine using the key

WD40 isn't a lubricant, but then you knew that?

[robdex1]

Alickadoo said:

WD40 isn't a lubricant, but then you knew that?

Didn’t I? Not really sure what you mean. Other people mentioned wd40

[richhead]

Alickadoo said:

robdex1 said:

Tried wd40 but it doesn’t work. Key has been a bit tricky to go in from time to time. I have no alarm. I was told it was the circuit board and the car starts fine using the key

WD40 isn't a lubricant, but then you knew that?

it is a lubricant, it isnt a penetrating oil.
best ting for keys is graphite.

[robdex1]

I managed to find my spare key which I thought I’d lost. Replaced the battery on that and also on my main one. Both light up when pressed which means timpson put the battery in upside down. The issue is that the unlock button works but when I press lock nothing happens. It’s the same on both remotes. Last year someone went in to the back of me and ever since my dash has showed an open door symbol. Think maybe the sensor got damaged as it was locking when using the key. Could this be the issue? If the car thinks that a door is open then will the remote not lock it?