engine removal / fitting
engine removal / fitting
Author
Discussion

wedge350

Original Poster:

19 posts

256 months

Tuesday 20th September 2005
quotequote all
Hi
I have just got my new engine from v8 developments and want to no the best way of taking engine out/in.
Is there anything posted anywere.
Cheers soon to be mobile again Nik

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

291 months

Wednesday 21st September 2005
quotequote all
Just engine, or engine with gearbox?
Engine with gearbox, it is preferred to hoist it in at an angle (and back wheels lifted as well). All with a lot of precaution as space is very tight. Some said it has to be done without the exhaust manifolds on, others say it is possible (probably just) with them on.
Recommend a proper hoist and not to do it on your own (safety, and avoiding unnecessary damages).
Currently investigating the hoisting myself, as I want to take the engine and gearbox out next year..... So it will be a long wait for my experience. Other sources of information: search the forum as it has been discussed in the past. The wedge bible of course.

If you leave the gearbox in place, not as tight as above. But if you do the job, change the clutch and all related stuff. If the gearbox is noisy, it is an opportunity to get it overhauled.


Rob

FrenchTVR

1,844 posts

297 months

Wednesday 21st September 2005
quotequote all
I would say engine and gearbox together, with manifolds on is probably the easiest option. Not sure if all manifolds will come out cleanly, but bear in mind, to get the majority of manifolds off will require the engine mounts ot be let go and the engine raised.

You would be well advised to hire/borrow a big engine crane with a long reach. The first one I borrowed only reached as far the front pulleys...DOH.

As engine removals go I found it fairly striaght forward with no real complications. Despite it being a fairly snug fit, it came out and went back in easily and hte engine/box was well balanced on the engine lifting points.

A second person is very useful, I took mine out on my own and struggled getting the tail of the gearbox over the front edge of the engine bay.

shpub

8,507 posts

302 months

Wednesday 21st September 2005
quotequote all
Take manifolds off before lifting the engine. They will foul the gearbox/chassis.
If you can raise the car at the back to tip the body forward. Makes life a lot easier.

You will need a decent crane to get the legs under the body.

Remove engine with gearbox and yes someone else to help is a very very good idea. Protect the bodywork as well. One slip and you'll have an expensive bill.

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Wednesday 21st September 2005
quotequote all
The crane reach needed is ideally 1.3m, I did it with 1.2m but had to tie on an extra rope from the front hoist loop on the block to the hook to get it to swing in far enough. You can leave the manifolds on if the gearbox is still attached.

Use the opportunity to waxoyl round all those bits of chassis you normally can't get to.

taz turbo

685 posts

280 months

Wednesday 21st September 2005
quotequote all
I am (soon) about to refit the engine back into my car, I agree totaly with everyones comments about the length of the hoist jib, I was assured of the length of the jib by the hire company, turns out it was about 500mm to shorter than advised (shame their bill wasn't smaller to match). So I took the engine out from the side (after having take one of the front wheels off), but it is a pain in the a*$e. Now thinking about putting an 'I' section in the garage, fully load tested of course . Then I will have no restrictions.

Regards,

Chris.

GV

2,366 posts

254 months

Tuesday 7th December 2010
quotequote all
[quote=adam quantrill]The crane reach needed is ideally 1.3m, I did it with 1.2m but had to tie on an extra rope from the front hoist loop on the block to the hook to get it to swing in far enough. You can leave the manifolds on if the gearbox is still attached.

Is that 1.3m with gearbox attached and manifolds on??


GV

2,366 posts

254 months

Tuesday 7th December 2010
quotequote all
The crane reach needed is ideally 1.3m, I did it with 1.2m but had to tie on an extra rope from the front hoist loop on the block to the hook to get it to swing in far enough. You can leave the manifolds on if the gearbox is still attached.

Is that 1.3m with gearbox attached and manifolds on??


Wedg1e

27,041 posts

295 months

Tuesday 7th December 2010
quotequote all
taz turbo said:
I am (soon) about to refit the engine back into my car, I agree totaly with everyones comments about the length of the hoist jib, I was assured of the length of the jib by the hire company, turns out it was about 500mm to shorter than advised (shame their bill wasn't smaller to match). So I took the engine out from the side (after having take one of the front wheels off), but it is a pain in the a*$e. Now thinking about putting an 'I' section in the garage, fully load tested of course rolleyes. Then I will have no restrictions.

Regards,

Chris.
Did you ever get that I-beam, Chris? biggrin

taz turbo

685 posts

280 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
Wedg1e said:
taz turbo said:
I am (soon) about to refit the engine back into my car, I agree totaly with everyones comments about the length of the hoist jib, I was assured of the length of the jib by the hire company, turns out it was about 500mm to shorter than advised (shame their bill wasn't smaller to match). So I took the engine out from the side (after having take one of the front wheels off), but it is a pain in the a*$e. Now thinking about putting an 'I' section in the garage, fully load tested of course rolleyes. Then I will have no restrictions.

Regards,

Chris.
Did you ever get that I-beam, Chris? biggrin
Yes I did get the I section, I was fitting engine only, so I bolted it to the brickwork each side of the garage door and rolled the car forwards during the fitting. It worked a treat, but have since moved house, so I no longer have it. Thinking back I forgot to have it load tested!

Regards,

Chris.

Wedg1e

27,041 posts

295 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
taz turbo said:
Thinking back I forgot to have it load tested!

Regards,

Chris.
Details, details. If a thing looks right, it probably is wink

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
GV said:
adam quantrill said:
The crane reach needed is ideally 1.3m, I did it with 1.2m but had to tie on an extra rope from the front hoist loop on the block to the hook to get it to swing in far enough. You can leave the manifolds on if the gearbox is still attached.

Is that 1.3m with gearbox attached and manifolds on??
Um that's interesting, that you can put the engine back in with manifolds if the gearbox is attached.

Also someone posted a link to a Crane for sale, they work fine and are long enough.

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
GV said:
The crane reach needed is ideally 1.3m, I did it with 1.2m but had to tie on an extra rope from the front hoist loop on the block to the hook to get it to swing in far enough. You can leave the manifolds on if the gearbox is still attached.

Is that 1.3m with gearbox attached and manifolds on??
Certainly with the gearbox attached. I don't think the manifolds will affect the reach required, as this is mainly determined by the length of the nosecone.

Whether the g/b is attached or not primarily affects the amount of room you need in front of the car to move the trolley backward and forward.

GV

2,366 posts

254 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
Will a 1.6 jib be long enough if that's what I can get?

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
Yes it will but you have to be careful about weight limits at various jib lengths, just make sure it can handle the combined weight when set to 1.3m (or more).

wedgeinald

1,314 posts

220 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
The guy who changed my V6 engine (twice, the original engine was mullered by being stood for 13 years!, and putting an old granny lump in was a mistake!) took a lateral approach.

Bonnet off completely (gets in the way however you look at it) and jacked up the drivers side and removed the wheel (so the hoist can be put in from the side) once you have the engine on the hoist (as far up as possible?) lower the jack under the car and the wing magically moves out of the way and you can swing the engine over it and presto its out. *(This does NOT work if you leave the gearbox on, that will need to be done from the front)

However I'm not sure if it was as easy as that makes it sound as I was not involved with the swaps, but he managed to do it quite quickly and with no damage to the car, using a fairly standard engine hoist.

Might be of help, might be of no help at all, but its some more info just in case.

Norman

GV

2,366 posts

254 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
Thanks guys - I've seen a crane on the 'bay which is rated at 2 tons - 500kg at the max jib length of 1.6m which should be enough for a combined engine & box install juding by your informed comments. I took the engine out using a hired 500kg lift which took the weight of the engine but was a bit tight on reach and was getting a bit iffy.

I'll take some pics of the install for reference - your tips have been gratefully appreciated.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
Well I've taken then Racer engine and box out with me on top also (65kg), with a 500kg at max reach.
I found it easier to manoeuvre the engine by standing on it, with by brother lowing and moving the crane, esp with the gearbox attached as you need to angle it more, than just drop in (with just the engine)

grahamw48

9,944 posts

268 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
Sections of carpet/underlay are very useful for laying over the bodywork to prevent damage.

May need to be slightly de-greased though, before being replaced in the hallway. smile