Alternatives to Osmo Poly X?

[Kiwi79]

I've used Osmo Poly X on our kitchen worktops as it provides a nice looking durable finish. However even applying it pretty very thinly in layers and allowing several days to dry before putting all the stuff back like the Microwave it has this slightly annoying "tack" which never seems to go even 6 months later.

Example: you lean on the counter with your elbows and it has that very slight tack. You put a glossy magazine down and something heavy on top of it and there is a bit of adhesion.

Am I doing soemthing wrong in application or can folks recommend an alternative

Thanks


Simon

[bogie]

For our worktops we use Osmo Top Oil, different product to Poly-X, the satin finish dries in a few hours, non tacky. 2-3 coats and lasts for 6 months or more although around the sink we do more often

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-...

[Kiwi79]

bogie said:

For our worktops we use Osmo Top Oil, different product to Poly-X, the satin finish dries in a few hours, non tacky. 2-3 coats and lasts for 6 months or more although around the sink we do more often

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-...

Looks interesting thank you I will check that out as it's kitchen specific. No doubt will have to go for a complete sanddown and stain to get the Poly X off at some point before applying

[PhilboSE]

I’ve used a Rustins product on wooden worktops and Manns Extra Tough varnish on a wooden floor. Both work well and give a non-tacky finish.

[Simpo Two]

Kiwi79 said:

I've used Osmo Poly X on our kitchen worktops as it provides a nice looking durable finish. However even applying it pretty very thinly in layers and allowing several days to dry before putting all the stuff back like the Microwave it has this slightly annoying "tack" which never seems to go even 6 months later.

Example: you lean on the counter with your elbows and it has that very slight tack. You put a glossy magazine down and something heavy on top of it and there is a bit of adhesion.

Am I doing soemthing wrong in application or can folks recommend an alternative

Two thoughts - maybe the tin needed stirring first, or there was some other finish on the worktop like Danish oil.

Can't suggest anything else; I used Osmo Polyx Oil and it dried as expected. Unfortunately not really suitable for worktops as oils and grease darken it so mine's gone a bit blotchy

[MajorMantra]

Also interested, as my experience of Poly X is the same as the OP's.

I've also found it's particularly hard to re-oil without creating tackiness. I think my best results have been from very lightly keying the existing oil with sandpaper, and then applying new oil as thinly as possible, but I'm never completely happy with the results.

[Crumpet]

I’ve got PolyX on my oak staircase and it’s fully dry, non-tacky and generally very hard.

I have it on an oak worktop in the utility and it’s also non-tacky and just like the staircase.

I then put it on the kitchen worktops and it’s exactly like the OP’s worktop and I have no idea why.

A friend uses Treatex and that seems to have worked well on the bits I’ve seen so that’s what I’ll be trying next.

[bogie]

I use Poiy X around the house on the furniture etc but Topoil on the worktops. Originally when looking for a worktop product specifically Topoil was recommended as "food safe" otherwise figured it was similar. First coat or two always dry faster than subsequent coats though, guess the wood just soaks it up more.

[Danns]

Which technique are you using for thin layers? Or to echo above perhaps another finish underneath reacting badly?

For me Osmo is the miracle thin finish product I’ve spent ages looking for.

Applied with white scotchbrite in circle motion gives a perfect finish. Oak parquet in the lounge was done this way, still holding up 3 years later.

Dried fast, zero tack.

[loughran]

Danns said:

Which technique are you using for thin layers? Or to echo above perhaps another finish underneath reacting badly?

For me Osmo is the miracle thin finish product I’ve spent ages looking for.

Applied with white scotchbrite in circle motion gives a perfect finish. Oak parquet in the lounge was done this way, still holding up 3 years later.

Dried fast, zero tack.

Remarkable floor, lots of love has gone into that.

[Danns]

Cheers!
And coming from you, that means a lot!

(Have followed your amazing work on the woodwork 101 thread)

[Kiwi79]

Danns said:

Which technique are you using for thin layers? Or to echo above perhaps another finish underneath reacting badly?

For me Osmo is the miracle thin finish product I’ve spent ages looking for.

Applied with white scotchbrite in circle motion gives a perfect finish. Oak parquet in the lounge was done this way, still holding up 3 years later.

Dried fast, zero tack.

Originally I sanded worktop. Stained for colour left to dry then applied Osmo so it can't be leftover finish as I took it back to bare wood. I apply the osmo with an Osmo paint brush. Use a torch to check coverage and apply it thin. Wait ~12hrs apply another coat

[loughran]

Kiwi79 said:

I've used Osmo Poly X on our kitchen worktops as it provides a nice looking durable finish. However even applying it pretty very thinly in layers and allowing several days to dry before putting all the stuff back like the Microwave it has this slightly annoying "tack" which never seems to go even 6 months later.

Example: you lean on the counter with your elbows and it has that very slight tack. You put a glossy magazine down and something heavy on top of it and there is a bit of adhesion.

Am I doing soemthing wrong in application or can folks recommend an alternative

Thanks


Simon

Does seem odd that the finish isn't curing like it should. This can sometimes be caused by the finish reacting with whatever is underneath it... you say you used a stain before applying the Osmo, what was that product ?

Alternatively, an oil based finish like Osmo (and paint and varnish) can stay tacky and refuse to dry completely if the product is old. A half used tin that has sat on a shelf for a year won't be at its best.

One other though, what wood are your work surfaces made from ? Timbers like teak and iroko are naturally oily and can effect the way a finish will cure. Adding a splash of dryers can help alleviate this problem.

[biggiles]

I've used Osmo a fair amount. Sometimes I get a tacky finish if I try to apply too much at once. In these cases I've sanded it back a bit (with a sacrificial disk, don't use Abranet for this!) and re-applied without trouble.

[Simpo Two]

Kiwi79 said:

Stained for colour left to dry then applied Osmo so it can't be leftover finish as I took it back to bare wood.

Now we have more info. I reckon the stain is the culprit.

[Greendubber]

Our carpenter always recommended applying the Osmo really thin and then buffing it with a lint free cloth to collect any excess. I've done 20 or so doors and 3 sets of stairs using that method and it's always dried perfectly. Couple of coats and that's it, zero sticky bits and great coverage.