Chevy engine build manual
Discussion
Can anyone suggest a good book for rebuilding small block chevy engines?
Also is there a book or web site that identifies the age and spec of an engine from it serial number?
Thanks
Steve
Check out www.mortec.com/ for GM block and cylinder head serial numbers.
There are a ton of excellent books on rebuilding Chevy V8's. In the states we often refer to this process as "Engine Blueprinting." I don't think this term is used much in the UK. David Vizard's books are good and so are John Baechtel's. I haven't read Lingenfelter's book, but I really like Smokey Yunick's book. I'd check out Amazon and go by the ratings. There are also some excellent video tapes on rebuilding smallblocks, but I think they are NTSC format. If you can view NTSC format, then you'll really find these two videos usefull. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0963033409/headerdesignc-20/102-5157430-2963315
Both of these videos are excellent! They go through the complete process, as well as engine block prep techniques that I've not seen in any books.
Let us know if you get stuck and need help with something. Also, you might try posting specific engine building questions to the www.chevytalk.com performance messege forum. They've got a lot of experienced engine builders there.
Cheers!
-Mack
Mack - au contraire! We use the term 'blueprinting' alot too. However, our definition of blueprinting is when an engine is built to it's 'standard', exact manufacturing specification and tolerances, rather than upgrades or 'hot-rodding'.
Another example of two English speaking countries talking a different language I suppose
Another example of two English speaking countries talking a different language I suppose
Mack
Thanks for the post. I ordered David Vidards book this morning before I saw your post. The Motec site looks good.
I think Ted has taken my plee for a cheap build to heart, they have rooted around the workshop and stores and offered me a truck load of second hand bits. I'm well pleased with them.
Amongst the bits is a dead SBC 400 engine which I will have to dismantle and find out what is wrong with it. It apparently vibrates badly.
I've not worked on a Chevy engine before so it should be good fun. You never know it could be something silly like a loose main or harmonic damper.
Later on, after rebuild, I'll be looking for carbs, dizzy, coil, aircleaner, water pump etc. etc.
Thanks again
Steve
Thanks for the post. I ordered David Vidards book this morning before I saw your post. The Motec site looks good.
I think Ted has taken my plee for a cheap build to heart, they have rooted around the workshop and stores and offered me a truck load of second hand bits. I'm well pleased with them.
Amongst the bits is a dead SBC 400 engine which I will have to dismantle and find out what is wrong with it. It apparently vibrates badly.
I've not worked on a Chevy engine before so it should be good fun. You never know it could be something silly like a loose main or harmonic damper.
Later on, after rebuild, I'll be looking for carbs, dizzy, coil, aircleaner, water pump etc. etc.
Thanks again
Steve
Sorry about that. I didn't realize that you guys used the term "blueprinting." We also use it to describe rebuilding an engine to factory specification. This term comes about from prints and drawing plans that used to be printed on blue colored paper. We also use it in residential and business construction industries.
A 400 c.i. sbc will be a neat build. There are a few important differences between the 350 and the 400 block but its a good solid foundation. Vibrating? It could be a number of things. One thing you'll definitely find is that in general the 400 will need a larger balancer than the 350 or 327. It tends to vibrate more than the 350. There are also some tricks that need to be done to the GM 400 balancer. You'll want to make sure that the rotating assembly is balanced as well. Some companies sell "balanced assemblies" that you can simply drop into place (crank,rods,and pistons). The video that I recommended to you has an example of a 400 rebuild with a Lunati crank and modest 450hp/450ft.lbs of torque. The heads and cam used weren't even that radical! If you want to talk more about the specifics, then send me an email and I can discuss the details of the video further. Another very good source for information, is the factory service manual for the vehicle that your engine was installed originally. The GM factory service manual is excellent and goes more into specifics of the factory specs and tolerances.
Cheers!
-Mack
Mack
I wont get the engine for another 6 or 7 weeks which is when the chassis will be ready. From what you say it may be that the engine has had the wrong balancer fitted. We are refering to the one on the front of the crank?
When I have the engine serial number will that also point to the vehicle it came out of?
I think I'm getting ahead of myself, these questions should wait until I have the beast in my garage, on it's stand and a spanner in my hand!
I'm off to bed.
Cheers
I wont get the engine for another 6 or 7 weeks which is when the chassis will be ready. From what you say it may be that the engine has had the wrong balancer fitted. We are refering to the one on the front of the crank?
When I have the engine serial number will that also point to the vehicle it came out of?
I think I'm getting ahead of myself, these questions should wait until I have the beast in my garage, on it's stand and a spanner in my hand!
I'm off to bed.
Cheers
Yes, it is located at the front of the engine. I don't think that it had the wrong balancer fitted. The 400 balancer fits the 400 crank snout specifically(which is larger than on a 350). However, the elastometer in this balancer is prone to slipping with heavy use(which is why there is a special mod for this balancer where they drill through the balancer and screw bolts into place to keep the elastometer from slipping). Its not done with the 350 balancer, and only done on the 400. If the mod hasn't been done, then something as simple as this could be the cause of your engine's problem. I'm sure Ultima tried a new balancer on this engine though. They're quite experienced with Chevy engines. Any idea of the mileage or use of this engine? I wonder if the engine always vibrated bad or if something brought about the vibration. Is this a remanufactured engine or a new engine?
Yes, the serial number is stamped onto the block and it will tell you the year and car that it came from. If you go here www.mortec.com/castnum.htm
and look at the 400 blocks, then you'll see that they were offered in both a 2 bolt and 4 bolt main cap configuration and only used from 1970-1980.
Cheers!
-Mack
Yes, the serial number is stamped onto the block and it will tell you the year and car that it came from. If you go here www.mortec.com/castnum.htm
and look at the 400 blocks, then you'll see that they were offered in both a 2 bolt and 4 bolt main cap configuration and only used from 1970-1980.
Cheers!
-Mack
Steve_D said: Mack
I wont get the engine for another 6 or 7 weeks which is when the chassis will be ready. From what you say it may be that the engine has had the wrong balancer fitted. We are refering to the one on the front of the crank?
When I have the engine serial number will that also point to the vehicle it came out of?
I think I'm getting ahead of myself, these questions should wait until I have the beast in my garage, on it's stand and a spanner in my hand!
I'm off to bed.
Cheers
Steve D - The 400 block is externaly balanced. With mine I got Peter Knight to balance my fly wheel to suit my engine. I was lucky, when I picked up my block it came with the original fly wheel which was already balanced to the rotating assembly. So all he had to do was match my new fly wheel to the old one.
Well worth having a chat with him though ...... Peter Knight Engineering, Daventry.
Well worth having a chat with him though ...... Peter Knight Engineering, Daventry.
This is something else to think about Steve. I'd forgotten about this point. The original 400 engine, uses a cast crankshaft, and will need to be externally balanced with the flywheel. Basically, they spin the crank, with bob weights attached to the crank representing the rods and pistons, and spin it with the flywheel attached. Cast cranks can not be balanced by drilling into the counterweights of the crankshaft(which is how you internally balance a rotating assembly). So they add or take off weight on the flywheel. If my memmory serves correctly, if you went for a higher performance forged crank, then the motor is balanced internally on this motor(unless the flywheel has been drilled to balance a prior cast assembly). Some people try to balance a cast crank internally, but it doesn't hold up. Not to mention, the GM cast crank isn't designed for performance applications. You'll be able to tell the difference between cast and forged when looking at the crank. You should see a parting line from the casting process on a cast crank. You'll learn more once your books arrive.
Cheers!
-Mack
Cheers!
-Mack
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