Upgrading my CH Room Thermostat
Discussion
I have a dial type CH thermostat in the hallway and I would like to change to a remote unit so I can strap it to my wife as she tells me whatever room she is in , its freezing ! I am going to fit a wireless unit with a base station in the hall and a removable unit to place somewhere a bit more sensible . I only want an on /off version no timers etc , that unit is already in the airing cupboard and all fine . Its just a heat on or heat off version I need.
I have seen versions that look ok but I have some wiring questions . I have attached the picture of my wires . I can see I have four wires, albeit one is obviously the neutral and one is an earth . The other two are live I guess ? The unit I have says its a three wire system and the unit I am likely to buy says its a 2 wire system . Happy for any suggestions on what wireless unit to buy , my question relates to the two red wires , one as you can se has a sleeve on it at number 3 .

The pictures are the existing unit .
I have seen versions that look ok but I have some wiring questions . I have attached the picture of my wires . I can see I have four wires, albeit one is obviously the neutral and one is an earth . The other two are live I guess ? The unit I have says its a three wire system and the unit I am likely to buy says its a 2 wire system . Happy for any suggestions on what wireless unit to buy , my question relates to the two red wires , one as you can se has a sleeve on it at number 3 .
Edited by cliffords on Thursday 12th December 17:10
Edited by cliffords on Thursday 12th December 17:11
The pictures are the existing unit .
Edited by cliffords on Thursday 12th December 17:12
Edited by cliffords on Thursday 12th December 17:18
cliffords said:
I have a dial type CH thermostat in the hallway and I would like to change to a remote unit so I can strap it to my wife as she tells me whatever room she is in , its freezing !
If your wife can control the temperature remotely, it means that when she's in the attic in the west wing and wants it at 20C your lounge will be at 300C. How about a wire structure, not unlike the supporting structure of a lampshade, connected to a hat band and with an infra red lamp at the top? That way she is directly heated wherever she goes and at minimal cost...Are you planning on changing that rotary therrmostat with the base station, so it's on your wall in the hall? Better would be to fit the base station by the boiler, assuming your house isn't massive, and then the wireless unit can talk to it from a distance, no unsightly base stations on hallway walls.
Personally if i was you I'd just change the rotary for something fixed like a Salus RT520 and use that for the timer - rather than just on/off it can do set-back temperatures, it learns how quickly/slowly the house heats up and cools down, does holiday mode etc. Then your timer in the cupboard you just switch to permanent on. They work so much better than the on/off thermostats and much more efficient.
I appreciate it won't fix the "wife is cold" issue but I'm not sure a wireless thermostat is the right call for that - instead get the temp right in each room by balancing rads, against a fixed measurement point (i.e. the hall)
Personally if i was you I'd just change the rotary for something fixed like a Salus RT520 and use that for the timer - rather than just on/off it can do set-back temperatures, it learns how quickly/slowly the house heats up and cools down, does holiday mode etc. Then your timer in the cupboard you just switch to permanent on. They work so much better than the on/off thermostats and much more efficient.
I appreciate it won't fix the "wife is cold" issue but I'm not sure a wireless thermostat is the right call for that - instead get the temp right in each room by balancing rads, against a fixed measurement point (i.e. the hall)
Mr Pointy said:
Ignoring the Earth you have three wires:
1 - Red - incoming Live
2 - Blue - incoming Neutral
3 - Red+Sleeve - Switched Live, tells the boiler to fire up
Tells us what you are looking to buy & we can guess at the wiring - probably live & switched live if it's battery powered.
Thank you for identifying the wires so clearly Mr Pointy. I will post the wiring diagram of what I buy in the next few days for what goes where advice.1 - Red - incoming Live
2 - Blue - incoming Neutral
3 - Red+Sleeve - Switched Live, tells the boiler to fire up
Tells us what you are looking to buy & we can guess at the wiring - probably live & switched live if it's battery powered.
To the other replies, I don't want to go down more complex , app enabled,timed devices . Thank you.
cliffords said:
Mr Pointy said:
Ignoring the Earth you have three wires:
1 - Red - incoming Live
2 - Blue - incoming Neutral
3 - Red+Sleeve - Switched Live, tells the boiler to fire up
Tells us what you are looking to buy & we can guess at the wiring - probably live & switched live if it's battery powered.
Thank you for identifying the wires so clearly Mr Pointy. I will post the wiring diagram of what I buy in the next few days for what goes where advice.1 - Red - incoming Live
2 - Blue - incoming Neutral
3 - Red+Sleeve - Switched Live, tells the boiler to fire up
Tells us what you are looking to buy & we can guess at the wiring - probably live & switched live if it's battery powered.
To the other replies, I don't want to go down more complex , app enabled,timed devices . Thank you.
If you don't specifically need to get the 2-wire one, you can get a multi-wire one (similar setup to your existing 'stat) still with the same simple functionality you want but avoiding the need for a receiver with batteries, which I don't think you can avoid with a 2-wire setup(?)
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