Solid Oak Parquet in the UFH'd KITCHEN!...
Discussion
Hello,
I'm all for taking risks etc so I figure if it all turns into a disaster I'll at least have learned something..
Hoping to hear positive reinforcement and encouragement only (lol) with regards to my query as to suitability of solid oak parquet flooring in my kitchen.
About to hit the button on ordering 20sqm of this stuff;
https://luxuryflooring.co.uk/thorpe-roasted-oak-he...
Floor is timber buildup under latex screed over wet UFH 16mm PEX type.
Any takers? i don't have a dog so no bowl over spill to worry about but general damp from kitcheny activities cause it to all fall to bits?
I'll use a quality Sikaflex adhesive.
Beers! HH
Current/proposed pics below for general interest
I'm all for taking risks etc so I figure if it all turns into a disaster I'll at least have learned something..
Hoping to hear positive reinforcement and encouragement only (lol) with regards to my query as to suitability of solid oak parquet flooring in my kitchen.
About to hit the button on ordering 20sqm of this stuff;
https://luxuryflooring.co.uk/thorpe-roasted-oak-he...
Floor is timber buildup under latex screed over wet UFH 16mm PEX type.
Any takers? i don't have a dog so no bowl over spill to worry about but general damp from kitcheny activities cause it to all fall to bits?
I'll use a quality Sikaflex adhesive.
Beers! HH
Current/proposed pics below for general interest
I've had solid wood parquet in a kitchen, it was from the 1920s. I scraped and varnished it in the 90s and it survived OK for the next 15 years until we moved. We did look after it, and because it was 'old' it was never supposed to look 'immaculate'.
There also wasn't an outside door, so it didn't get the hard life of say a 'farmhouse' kitchen.
Regarding the UFH, I think I would want to understand how much heat you'll need in the kitchen and what that implies for the temperature of the wood.
Kitchens vary a lot and people expect different things from the heating. Slowly ticking over might ( I think will be!) absolutely fine, if you want lots of heat in the kitchen to counter opening the window when the chef fills it with smoke, that may be more of a challenge. I'd want to understand the heat loss of the room. Would a thinner engineered wood floor work better?
OTOH, a well insulated house with heat recovery returning heat to the kitchen might not be making excessive demands of the UFH?
On balance, not sure I'd want the angst of it, getting stressed every time something gets dropped on it etc.
There also wasn't an outside door, so it didn't get the hard life of say a 'farmhouse' kitchen.
Regarding the UFH, I think I would want to understand how much heat you'll need in the kitchen and what that implies for the temperature of the wood.
Kitchens vary a lot and people expect different things from the heating. Slowly ticking over might ( I think will be!) absolutely fine, if you want lots of heat in the kitchen to counter opening the window when the chef fills it with smoke, that may be more of a challenge. I'd want to understand the heat loss of the room. Would a thinner engineered wood floor work better?
OTOH, a well insulated house with heat recovery returning heat to the kitchen might not be making excessive demands of the UFH?
On balance, not sure I'd want the angst of it, getting stressed every time something gets dropped on it etc.
If you’re happy with a “patina” or constant maintenance then… ok. Think scratches from chairs, traffic etc.
In contrast a large format porcelain tile is zero maintenance and stays looking as new for ever. Single best decision i made, as originally i was set on solid wood.
You can also run in straight out into the gardan which we have done.
Interestingly our tiles also get the most comments and “oooo lovely floor” reactions.
In contrast a large format porcelain tile is zero maintenance and stays looking as new for ever. Single best decision i made, as originally i was set on solid wood.
You can also run in straight out into the gardan which we have done.
Interestingly our tiles also get the most comments and “oooo lovely floor” reactions.
DoubleSix said:
If you’re happy with a “patina” or constant maintenance then… ok. Think scratches from chairs, traffic etc.
In contrast a large format porcelain tile is zero maintenance and stays looking as new for ever. Single best decision i made, as originally i was set on solid wood.
You can also run in straight out into the gardan which we have done.
We have an oak floor kitchen/dining area and both doors lead onto itIn contrast a large format porcelain tile is zero maintenance and stays looking as new for ever. Single best decision i made, as originally i was set on solid wood.
You can also run in straight out into the gardan which we have done.
It's 12 years old now and looks great
If you want your house to look like a mortuary go with large format tiles
I’m sure your house is lovely.
It’ll only look like a mortuary if you choose a cheap boring tile in insipid grey/white from one of the sheds.
We sourced a premium tile with a warm, interesting design and low repeats. Not cheap, but the effect is wonderfully warm and clean.
Hit it with a steam mop and you could eat your dinner off it.
It’ll only look like a mortuary if you choose a cheap boring tile in insipid grey/white from one of the sheds.
We sourced a premium tile with a warm, interesting design and low repeats. Not cheap, but the effect is wonderfully warm and clean.
Hit it with a steam mop and you could eat your dinner off it.
Edited by DoubleSix on Thursday 2nd January 17:58
DoubleSix said:
If you’re happy with a “patina” or constant maintenance then… ok. Think scratches from chairs, traffic etc.
In contrast a large format porcelain tile is zero maintenance and stays looking as new for ever. Single best decision i made, as originally i was set on solid wood.
You can also run in straight out into the gardan which we have done.
Interestingly our tiles also get the most comments and “oooo lovely floor” reactions.
I'd agree with the tiles recommendation. They work very well with UFH and you can even get designs that look like wood if that's the appearance you're after. In contrast a large format porcelain tile is zero maintenance and stays looking as new for ever. Single best decision i made, as originally i was set on solid wood.
You can also run in straight out into the gardan which we have done.
Interestingly our tiles also get the most comments and “oooo lovely floor” reactions.
I used Amitico in our utility and well… i’m glad it stopped there (wish id used porcelain throughout !!).
UFH is like heat storage, nothing will beat a stone or stone like material when combined with UFH. Besides, walking bare foot on warm stone is sensational.
UFH is like heat storage, nothing will beat a stone or stone like material when combined with UFH. Besides, walking bare foot on warm stone is sensational.
Edited by DoubleSix on Thursday 2nd January 21:58
Thanks, the step doesn’t actually connect to the house.
This detail keep me up at night but we got there…
The exterior tile stops about 3mm short of the bifold frame. With air gap and french drain hidden beneath. Interior tile is 10mm, exterior is 20mm with higher friction rating.
This detail keep me up at night but we got there…
The exterior tile stops about 3mm short of the bifold frame. With air gap and french drain hidden beneath. Interior tile is 10mm, exterior is 20mm with higher friction rating.
Edited by DoubleSix on Thursday 2nd January 20:17
PhilboSE said:
You won’t find any flooring suppliers recommending solid wood with UFH. Engineered wood is theoretically ok but the maximum flow temp is greatly reduced - about 28 degrees max. Solid stone or even better ceramic floors work best with UFH.
Interested in more info on the lower flow temp comment please. Was that a typo and meant to be floor temp?Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff