Does turbo cause blowby bmw?
Discussion
I have bmw 2016 b47 engine diesel.
Eating oil with no apparent leaks. It's also got blowby when I open the oil cap/ dipstick.
No error codes on screen/ no smoke from exhaust.
Independent garage said it was blown turbo and the blocked dpf was stopping the smoke coming from exhaust and the cause of faulty turbo.
Bmw maindealer didn't agree ( looked at independent dealer report)and said its gonna need a strip down to establish reason. Also said that an error code would have come on the screen if the dpf/ turbo gone.
Is it normal to have blowby ( fumes/ spitting oil) if the only cause is turbo?
Or can the turbo have been damaged as a result of something else like failed pistons/ blocked pipes etc.
Eating oil with no apparent leaks. It's also got blowby when I open the oil cap/ dipstick.
No error codes on screen/ no smoke from exhaust.
Independent garage said it was blown turbo and the blocked dpf was stopping the smoke coming from exhaust and the cause of faulty turbo.
Bmw maindealer didn't agree ( looked at independent dealer report)and said its gonna need a strip down to establish reason. Also said that an error code would have come on the screen if the dpf/ turbo gone.
Is it normal to have blowby ( fumes/ spitting oil) if the only cause is turbo?
Or can the turbo have been damaged as a result of something else like failed pistons/ blocked pipes etc.
Blow by is due to worn piston rings allowing combustion gases (and oil) into the crankcase. It’s air being blown by (as in past) the rings.
A failing turbo could be a cause or symptom. It failing could cause blow by, or worn rings could cause it which in turn leads to a turbo failure as per my previous post.
When you open the filler cap with engine running, what are you observing? Lots of smoke or just the odd wisp? What colour is it?
Suggest you ask the Indy for a clearer explanation of what are the symptoms and likely cause.
ETA - hope you're not driving it. If so, you're risking complete engine failure.
A failing turbo could be a cause or symptom. It failing could cause blow by, or worn rings could cause it which in turn leads to a turbo failure as per my previous post.
When you open the filler cap with engine running, what are you observing? Lots of smoke or just the odd wisp? What colour is it?
Suggest you ask the Indy for a clearer explanation of what are the symptoms and likely cause.
ETA - hope you're not driving it. If so, you're risking complete engine failure.
Edited by shirt on Sunday 2nd February 15:14
Constant puffing white smoke.
Indy said its turbo and dpf wash needed and egr replacement.
He said oil was very badly degraded ( even though I only got it change 1 wek prior).
I asked him the likelyhood of needing a rebuild after turbo change, he said he can't say for sure because of how bad the oil quality is.
Would a diagnostic machine have picked up on bad pistons? Also I've asked around about testing the pistons amd it's pretty much a engine coming out.
Indy said its turbo and dpf wash needed and egr replacement.
He said oil was very badly degraded ( even though I only got it change 1 wek prior).
I asked him the likelyhood of needing a rebuild after turbo change, he said he can't say for sure because of how bad the oil quality is.
Would a diagnostic machine have picked up on bad pistons? Also I've asked around about testing the pistons amd it's pretty much a engine coming out.
It's possible you can do a compression test at the injector ports followed by a wet compression test to find out how the rings are sealing without dismantling much on the engine.
Taking the oil cap off a running engine will always have some pressure and oil vapour or misting coming out, anything that was going through the PCV will now take the easiest route out the oil filler/dipstick.
If there really are no signs anywhere of where the oil is going I personally would get the DPF off and cleaned and change the oil and filter again.
If it is blocked it will keep trying to regen and can dilute your oil with diesel which isnt a good lubricant and smokes when hot, it can cause issues at the turbo seals, and due to higher exhaust pressure create exhaust leaks all over the place as it tries to escape. I would be to replace the turbo too.
Your independent has actually set eyes on the car so I would take his advice over a randomer on the internet.
Taking the oil cap off a running engine will always have some pressure and oil vapour or misting coming out, anything that was going through the PCV will now take the easiest route out the oil filler/dipstick.
If there really are no signs anywhere of where the oil is going I personally would get the DPF off and cleaned and change the oil and filter again.
If it is blocked it will keep trying to regen and can dilute your oil with diesel which isnt a good lubricant and smokes when hot, it can cause issues at the turbo seals, and due to higher exhaust pressure create exhaust leaks all over the place as it tries to escape. I would be to replace the turbo too.
Your independent has actually set eyes on the car so I would take his advice over a randomer on the internet.
A diagnostic scan would not although it might help with confirmation. A leakdown test is needed.
For each piston in turn they would rotate the engine until the piston is at top dead centre. Pressurise it to a set point with compressed air, and then see by how much the gauge pressure does down. This pressure reduction being the air escaping past the piston rings.
If all good, then points to the turbo. If not then yes its rebuild time.
I would not expect this level of testing to be done for free. They are a business, you might get the estimate and baulk at it.
However, you could try negotiating with the indy so that you agree to pay for inspection/assessment [couple hrs tops] and then if you proceed with any work beyond that then they remove that cost from the final bill.
For each piston in turn they would rotate the engine until the piston is at top dead centre. Pressurise it to a set point with compressed air, and then see by how much the gauge pressure does down. This pressure reduction being the air escaping past the piston rings.
If all good, then points to the turbo. If not then yes its rebuild time.
I would not expect this level of testing to be done for free. They are a business, you might get the estimate and baulk at it.
However, you could try negotiating with the indy so that you agree to pay for inspection/assessment [couple hrs tops] and then if you proceed with any work beyond that then they remove that cost from the final bill.
Indy put the machine on diagnostic.
The codes that came through were ;
2BBC00, 245700, 2E0600, 249300 - all intermittent so nothing showing on dashboard.
I've asked about the leakdown test and most mechanics seem to be clueless about what this is.
I've also asked about the pcv but been told no such thing exists on my engine ( b47 diesel). Which makes me wonder where the excess gases go.
The codes that came through were ;
2BBC00, 245700, 2E0600, 249300 - all intermittent so nothing showing on dashboard.
I've asked about the leakdown test and most mechanics seem to be clueless about what this is.
I've also asked about the pcv but been told no such thing exists on my engine ( b47 diesel). Which makes me wonder where the excess gases go.
Lydia84 said:
I have bmw 2016 b47 engine diesel.
Eating oil with no apparent leaks. It's also got blowby when I open the oil cap/ dipstick.
No error codes on screen/ no smoke from exhaust.
Independent garage said it was blown turbo and the blocked dpf was stopping the smoke coming from exhaust and the cause of faulty turbo.
Bmw maindealer didn't agree ( looked at independent dealer report)and said its gonna need a strip down to establish reason. Also said that an error code would have come on the screen if the dpf/ turbo gone.
Is it normal to have blowby ( fumes/ spitting oil) if the only cause is turbo?
Or can the turbo have been damaged as a result of something else like failed pistons/ blocked pipes etc.
And what is your definition of blowby ? There will naturally be air movement if you open the cap.Eating oil with no apparent leaks. It's also got blowby when I open the oil cap/ dipstick.
No error codes on screen/ no smoke from exhaust.
Independent garage said it was blown turbo and the blocked dpf was stopping the smoke coming from exhaust and the cause of faulty turbo.
Bmw maindealer didn't agree ( looked at independent dealer report)and said its gonna need a strip down to establish reason. Also said that an error code would have come on the screen if the dpf/ turbo gone.
Is it normal to have blowby ( fumes/ spitting oil) if the only cause is turbo?
Or can the turbo have been damaged as a result of something else like failed pistons/ blocked pipes etc.
To get an accurate picture if there is actually any blowby, get a pulse sensor in the crankcase and scope it then you can see if there are any irregular pressure spikes that could be an issue.
Also, what is your definition of "eating oil" ? litre per 100 ? litre per 1000 ? litre per something else ?
Does the car drive normally ? If so, then it would seem a turbo problem is rather unlikely.
if it was a blocked DPF, this would be very easy to see on the data for pressure before/aft the DPF. And again if it was blocked, clearly the vehicle would not perform correctly, you make no mention about any issues with driving or performance.
It does sound like you're getting a runaround, you need to seek out an actual competent garage/diagnostic technician.
Hi
When I open the oil cap and dipstick both and puffing out high amounts of white smoke and spitting oil.
The car generally drives well however I do feel it's a bit sluggish to speed up. At times when trying to accelerate it feels like its on ice and skids. All this lasts a few seonds.
Also a few times while idling at traffic light it stuttered for a few seconds like it was going to turn off but it didn't.
The oil consumption is about 1 litre to 120miles.
When I open the oil cap and dipstick both and puffing out high amounts of white smoke and spitting oil.
The car generally drives well however I do feel it's a bit sluggish to speed up. At times when trying to accelerate it feels like its on ice and skids. All this lasts a few seonds.
Also a few times while idling at traffic light it stuttered for a few seconds like it was going to turn off but it didn't.
The oil consumption is about 1 litre to 120miles.
Lydia84 said:
Hi
When I open the oil cap and dipstick both and puffing out high amounts of white smoke and spitting oil.
The car generally drives well however I do feel it's a bit sluggish to speed up. At times when trying to accelerate it feels like its on ice and skids. All this lasts a few seonds.
Also a few times while idling at traffic light it stuttered for a few seconds like it was going to turn off but it didn't.
The oil consumption is about 1 litre to 120miles.
A lot does not make sense......it's sluggish, but it is losing traction ??? When I open the oil cap and dipstick both and puffing out high amounts of white smoke and spitting oil.
The car generally drives well however I do feel it's a bit sluggish to speed up. At times when trying to accelerate it feels like its on ice and skids. All this lasts a few seonds.
Also a few times while idling at traffic light it stuttered for a few seconds like it was going to turn off but it didn't.
The oil consumption is about 1 litre to 120miles.
I'm sure something has to be lost in translation here as skidding makes no sense unless you have oil escaping onto the tyres or something. Which if that was the case, the evidence would be obvious.
But that is huge oil consumption.
You need to find a competent garage to do some sensible diagnostic checks, and that does not involve just reading codes.
Tbh I'm as confused.
I've taken it to independent bmw specialist and bmw garage. Everyone is saying something else.
Both garages have said no leaks which is the only thing that they are in agreement.
The reason for no smoke apparently is the dpf is stopping the smoke.
After researching I did ask bmw about the pcv or ccv as its diesel and they said my car doesn't have one.
I have the car booked in tomorrow with another bmerc specialist. I'll update on what he says.
I've taken it to independent bmw specialist and bmw garage. Everyone is saying something else.
Both garages have said no leaks which is the only thing that they are in agreement.
The reason for no smoke apparently is the dpf is stopping the smoke.
After researching I did ask bmw about the pcv or ccv as its diesel and they said my car doesn't have one.
I have the car booked in tomorrow with another bmerc specialist. I'll update on what he says.
Lydia84 said:
Tbh I'm as confused.
After researching I did ask bmw about the pcv or ccv as its diesel and they said my car doesn't have one.
They won't be selling many of these then. "New 11128581798 11128513755 Exhaust PCV Valve For BMW B47 Engine Valve Cover F10 F11 F20 F21 F22 F23 F30 F31 F34 F32 F36"After researching I did ask bmw about the pcv or ccv as its diesel and they said my car doesn't have one.
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005005494302163.ht...
That looks really clean inside for a car that's burning a litre of oil every 120miles!
You will have to go to another mechanic as you've had bad advice so far. You definitely will have a pcv or whatever BMW calls it as its essential to vent the crank. Also compression testing/leak down testing is 101 diagnostic lessons for an apprentice, anyone worth their salt can do it.
Losing traction is nothing to do with the engine, maybe a wheel alignment or damper replacement is needed but that's a different issue.
Bad idling could be the MAF caked in oil and not reading correctly, common on cars burning alot of oil or with a bad PCV venting oil into the intake, but yours is surprisingly clean in that photo.
Find a better (maybe older) mechanic to do the diagnosis, if you post where you live you could get a recommendation here from someone in that area.
You will have to go to another mechanic as you've had bad advice so far. You definitely will have a pcv or whatever BMW calls it as its essential to vent the crank. Also compression testing/leak down testing is 101 diagnostic lessons for an apprentice, anyone worth their salt can do it.
Losing traction is nothing to do with the engine, maybe a wheel alignment or damper replacement is needed but that's a different issue.
Bad idling could be the MAF caked in oil and not reading correctly, common on cars burning alot of oil or with a bad PCV venting oil into the intake, but yours is surprisingly clean in that photo.
Find a better (maybe older) mechanic to do the diagnosis, if you post where you live you could get a recommendation here from someone in that area.
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