Waterslide decals, frustrating me!

Waterslide decals, frustrating me!

Author
Discussion

doogalman

Original Poster:

755 posts

259 months

Friday 7th February
quotequote all
Hi guys. Maybe some of the more hardcore modellers could offer me some tips.
I’m getting back into building the odd Tamyia 1:12 motorbike models.
I’ve built a good few over the years but when I’m doing decals on bike fairings I’m having a lot of grief when the surface areas are compound curves.
I’ve bought some Decalfix that I’ve not tried yet as maybe it could help soften the decals to allow them to be a bit more compliant in getting them to go on nicely. I’ve never used anything other than a saucer of water in the past, so am I going about it wrong or would you have any other useful tips I could utilise.

Super Sonic

9,369 posts

68 months

Friday 7th February
quotequote all
Decal softener will allow the decal to confirm to compound surfaces and also to uneven surfaces.
When you first ut it on, it will make the decal go all wrinkly.
Do not panic. Do not touch the decal while wrinkly, it will smooth as it dries.

MBBlat

1,932 posts

163 months

Friday 7th February
quotequote all
Warm water + decal softener. I’m still fond of the microset/microsol solutions, but most seem to do what they say on the tin.

doogalman

Original Poster:

755 posts

259 months

Friday 7th February
quotequote all
Super Sonic said:
Decal softener will allow the decal to confirm to compound surfaces and also to uneven surfaces.
When you first ut it on, it will make the decal go all wrinkly.
Do not panic. Do not touch the decal while wrinkly, it will smooth as it dries.
Oh right, I’m glad I asked then. Would have freaked if not prewarned about wrinkling decals.
Will have a go over the weekend.

doogalman

Original Poster:

755 posts

259 months

Friday 7th February
quotequote all
MBBlat said:
Warm water + decal softener. I’m still fond of the microset/microsol solutions, but most seem to do what they say on the tin.
Thanks.

Terry Tibbs

256 posts

63 months

Friday 7th February
quotequote all
I use a cotton bud and gently ‘roll’ it over the decal (before I put decal softener on) to expel any air bubbles and help it lay down flat.

doogalman

Original Poster:

755 posts

259 months

Saturday 8th February
quotequote all
Terry Tibbs said:
I use a cotton bud and gently ‘roll’ it over the decal (before I put decal softener on) to expel any air bubbles and help it lay down flat.
Thanks will try this.

Skyedriver

20,463 posts

296 months

Sunday 9th February
quotequote all
Scrapped a rally car due to the decal fail. Tiger Moth in abeyance, waiting for replacement decals.

doogalman

Original Poster:

755 posts

259 months

Sunday 9th February
quotequote all
Skyedriver said:
Scrapped a rally car due to the decal fail. Tiger Moth in abeyance, waiting for replacement decals.
Yesterday was not a very good day. Tail section on the model I will probably need to strip and start again.
Zero success with the humbrol product I have tried. Either tgat or I try and patch it up with paint where it’s looking ste!

Terry Tibbs

256 posts

63 months

Sunday 9th February
quotequote all
I’ve tried decal fix and couldn’t really get on with it. My go to is Micro set and micro sol. It’s not cheap but I’ve had my bottles for 10 years now and still got loads left.

Use a brush and apply some micro set where the decal will be going, apply decal, flatten it out with a cotton bud then apply micro sol. I also use a hair dryer at this point sometimes to speed up the conforming and drying.

Some decals are great (cartograph), some are pigs - I find tamiya decals too thick.