MOT Advisories Nissan X Trail
Discussion
Potential purchase of a 2014 Nissan X Trail.
It has 11 months MOT but the advisories were:
Track Rod end dust cover damaged,
ball joint dust cover damaged,
rear suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened,
front pin worn but not excessive
I'm not particularly mechanically minded, Is anyone able to give a guide as to whether any of the above is concerning and a ball park figure of repair costs in 11 Months.
It has 11 months MOT but the advisories were:
Track Rod end dust cover damaged,
ball joint dust cover damaged,
rear suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened,
front pin worn but not excessive
I'm not particularly mechanically minded, Is anyone able to give a guide as to whether any of the above is concerning and a ball park figure of repair costs in 11 Months.
Having owned one, I would look elsewhere TBH. I recall mine was a money pit of rear brake calipers and various suspension bushes and components.
That is before the turbo shat itself putting a rod through the block at around 100k.
It's a shame as they're a comfy, well equipped car. Just too much french rather than Japanese reliability in them.
A relative had one too...same caliper and suspension issues.
Get a similar age CRV instead...ugly as sin and as beige as they come, but a more reliable car
That is before the turbo shat itself putting a rod through the block at around 100k.
It's a shame as they're a comfy, well equipped car. Just too much french rather than Japanese reliability in them.
A relative had one too...same caliper and suspension issues.
Get a similar age CRV instead...ugly as sin and as beige as they come, but a more reliable car
TGCOTF-dewey said:
Having owned one, I would look elsewhere TBH. I recall mine was a money pit of rear brake calipers and various suspension bushes and components.
That is before the turbo shat itself putting a rod through the block at around 100k.
It's a shame as they're a comfy, well equipped car. Just too much french rather than Japanese reliability in them.
A relative had one too...same caliper and suspension issues.
Get a similar age CRV instead...ugly as sin and as beige as they come, but a more reliable car
I've had two. First one was the original T30 and had the very common turbo failure (diesel) and brake calliper sliding pin seizures.That is before the turbo shat itself putting a rod through the block at around 100k.
It's a shame as they're a comfy, well equipped car. Just too much french rather than Japanese reliability in them.
A relative had one too...same caliper and suspension issues.
Get a similar age CRV instead...ugly as sin and as beige as they come, but a more reliable car
But my second one was the facelift T31 model and that was faultless. A 2014 model could be a T31 or the more Qashqai-like T32.
NuckyThompson said:
Potential purchase of a 2014 Nissan X Trail.
It has 11 months MOT but the advisories were:
Track Rod end dust cover damaged,
ball joint dust cover damaged,
rear suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened,
front pin worn but not excessive
I'm not particularly mechanically minded, Is anyone able to give a guide as to whether any of the above is concerning and a ball park figure of repair costs in 11 Months.
So the rubber bellows that cover the ball joints inside the rack rod end and ball joint are damaged, but not leaking grease or they'd fail - so clean them up, glue them or smear some Tiger Seal over the damaged bit, which will likely be a wee nick in the rubber. Or, replace the track road end and ball joint if you want. It has 11 months MOT but the advisories were:
Track Rod end dust cover damaged,
ball joint dust cover damaged,
rear suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened,
front pin worn but not excessive
I'm not particularly mechanically minded, Is anyone able to give a guide as to whether any of the above is concerning and a ball park figure of repair costs in 11 Months.
Rear suspension arm corroded on an old Nissan, it's not dangerous so get under it and wire brush it, apply some rust treatment and overpaint if you want or again, remove and replace but who knows as bolts could be seized etc etc.
Front pin... no idea, could be a few things but again clearly trivial for now.
I'd rather have those advises on a older car than a clean pass, the matter of which would make me a bit suspicious that it's been a very friendly test as most cars of this age / mileage will have advisory items and none of that is concerning... how you deal with them, you either ignore them till next year and see what happens or you DIY some cheap fixes or you get your cheque book out at the local Nissan dealer.
I honestly wouldn't lose sleep and wouldn't worry about what if... the thing could snap the belt or the gearbox could seize, who knows.
TGCOTF-dewey said:
Get a similar age CRV instead...ugly as sin and as beige as they come, but a more reliable car
Yep, CRV would be my pick, but just stick to petrol. This seems a decent one for £4k.https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202502179...
NuckyThompson said:
Potential purchase of a 2014 Nissan X Trail.
It has 11 months MOT but the advisories were:
Track Rod end dust cover damaged,
ball joint dust cover damaged,
rear suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened,
front pin worn but not excessive
I'm not particularly mechanically minded, Is anyone able to give a guide as to whether any of the above is concerning and a ball park figure of repair costs in 11 Months.
These are age and mileage related suspension wear and tear. Any 10 year old car can (and will) experience these. I don’t know the car and wouldn’t want to put a figure on it, but you’re probably looking at less than £100 to supply and fit the components with rubber dust covers. The arm could be a couple of hundred. I don’t know what the pin relates to but same ballpark I expect. You could probably sort it all for the cost of a set of tyres if that helps put it in perspective. It has 11 months MOT but the advisories were:
Track Rod end dust cover damaged,
ball joint dust cover damaged,
rear suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened,
front pin worn but not excessive
I'm not particularly mechanically minded, Is anyone able to give a guide as to whether any of the above is concerning and a ball park figure of repair costs in 11 Months.
With MOT advisories, anything relating to structural corrosion, CV joints / bearings and emissions can soon add up (but can sometimes be much cheaper to fix).
I have a 110k miles T32 Xtrail.
The advisories you have seen are normal. Bush pins require the subframe to be removed, mine have been advised a couple of times, but not every time. You might get a slight knocking from the sub frame, but I doubt you'll have to replace them. ( it's £600 job IIRC)
The track rod ends and wishbones with the splits in the covers - just get them changed. It's not a big job, and if you shop around suspect you'll be able to get it done for around £200 per side including parts.
Rear trailing arms I suspect is very slight surface rust. Mine has it, but in no way is it an advisory. Again a decent jet wash and maybe some hammerite will sort it.
I've never really had any major faults with my car - and those that I have had are largely self inflicted. However these engines do not like short journeys, so I am not sure only doing 4k per year would be ideal, unless it's 10x 400 miles trips. In any case you will need to change the oil at least annually or every 9k miles which ever comes first.
For this car I'd try and get a scanner on to it and see what the DPF looks like in terms of grams of soot, and also the oil dilution ratio. You want to be less than 15g on soot, and see that the DPF is capable of a regen, and less than 5% on oil dilution.
If it meets both of those criteria, it should be ok.
The advisories you have seen are normal. Bush pins require the subframe to be removed, mine have been advised a couple of times, but not every time. You might get a slight knocking from the sub frame, but I doubt you'll have to replace them. ( it's £600 job IIRC)
The track rod ends and wishbones with the splits in the covers - just get them changed. It's not a big job, and if you shop around suspect you'll be able to get it done for around £200 per side including parts.
Rear trailing arms I suspect is very slight surface rust. Mine has it, but in no way is it an advisory. Again a decent jet wash and maybe some hammerite will sort it.
I've never really had any major faults with my car - and those that I have had are largely self inflicted. However these engines do not like short journeys, so I am not sure only doing 4k per year would be ideal, unless it's 10x 400 miles trips. In any case you will need to change the oil at least annually or every 9k miles which ever comes first.
For this car I'd try and get a scanner on to it and see what the DPF looks like in terms of grams of soot, and also the oil dilution ratio. You want to be less than 15g on soot, and see that the DPF is capable of a regen, and less than 5% on oil dilution.
If it meets both of those criteria, it should be ok.
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