Tam won’t start.
Discussion
Hi folks,
I’ve been away for a while as the Tam has been sitting for a while but now I’m getting her back on the road. I eventually got the engine running. The main issues was water in the spark plug holes. I dried everything out and fitted new plugs and leads and she fired up nicely and all pressures, temps etc normal so a good start. I even drove her for a short distance and everything mechanically works apart from the brakes as the fluid has gone. That’s another thing and I’m sure a simple fix. There are a number of other piddling errors on the dash but all in good time for those.
Onto the current problem: Once I had moved her and then tried to start up again it wouldn’t start. I reset the inertia switch and she fired up as normal. All good or so you would think. I then disconnected the battery (new battery fully charged) to remove the alternator in order to fit a new one. Went to start up and she wouldn’t start. Dash comes on as normal with the 3 beeps but that’s it. No fuel pump no starter. Suspecting the immobiliser again I reset the inertia button but it hadn’t been triggered. Then I disconnected the battery to reset the system. Still nothing, no flashing red light on the mirror control after 8 secs, no fuel pump, not turning over. Any idea what my next step is as I am a bit stuck? Thank you TVR folks your help is appreciated.
I’ve been away for a while as the Tam has been sitting for a while but now I’m getting her back on the road. I eventually got the engine running. The main issues was water in the spark plug holes. I dried everything out and fitted new plugs and leads and she fired up nicely and all pressures, temps etc normal so a good start. I even drove her for a short distance and everything mechanically works apart from the brakes as the fluid has gone. That’s another thing and I’m sure a simple fix. There are a number of other piddling errors on the dash but all in good time for those.
Onto the current problem: Once I had moved her and then tried to start up again it wouldn’t start. I reset the inertia switch and she fired up as normal. All good or so you would think. I then disconnected the battery (new battery fully charged) to remove the alternator in order to fit a new one. Went to start up and she wouldn’t start. Dash comes on as normal with the 3 beeps but that’s it. No fuel pump no starter. Suspecting the immobiliser again I reset the inertia button but it hadn’t been triggered. Then I disconnected the battery to reset the system. Still nothing, no flashing red light on the mirror control after 8 secs, no fuel pump, not turning over. Any idea what my next step is as I am a bit stuck? Thank you TVR folks your help is appreciated.
Edited by sidpinup on Friday 2nd May 10:28
Edited by sidpinup on Friday 2nd May 11:20
Edited by sidpinup on Friday 2nd May 11:21
Sounds to me like the imobiliser isnt disarming but others will likely know better and have solutions.
If I dont disarm the imobiliser on my tam it does the exact same sequence as you are finding. Its fires everything up but the fuel pump.
Remember if you unlock the car and leave it a while before attempting to start the imobiliser will have rearmed itself.
Out of curiosity, how long has the car been sat? I take it its been sat outside if the plugs were full of water?
If I dont disarm the imobiliser on my tam it does the exact same sequence as you are finding. Its fires everything up but the fuel pump.
Remember if you unlock the car and leave it a while before attempting to start the imobiliser will have rearmed itself.
Out of curiosity, how long has the car been sat? I take it its been sat outside if the plugs were full of water?
Check all 3 fuses for failing and if the version of fuse holder has the nyloc nut (recent holders have nyloc nuts and mine came loose with the fuse arcing/failing under the flange nut) change them for a Phillidas version (M5) or go back to (OE) nut, washer and spring washer . The main earth eyelets lock under the bolt head through the shell (battery side) to the brass bobbin, BUT THEN backs off as you lock the nut and the footwell side eyelets in the foot well leaving a poor earth. THEN, there is a soldered joint above the passenger side knees in the alarm loom that failed on my car, simply by the joint not being cleaned and a green flux verdigris getting damp and creating a short/tracking, leaving the alarm as such dead and not working.
A picture of the connection that is above the passenger side knee.
A@
A picture of the connection that is above the passenger side knee.
A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 2nd May 14:22
BEARDYB0Y said:
Sounds to me like the imobiliser isnt disarming but others will likely know better and have solutions.
If I dont disarm the imobiliser on my tam it does the exact same sequence as you are finding. Its fires everything up but the fuel pump.
Remember if you unlock the car and leave it a while before attempting to start the imobiliser will have rearmed itself.
Out of curiosity, how long has the car been sat? I take it its been sat outside if the plugs were full of water?
Thanks but I don’t think it’s that. When the immobiliser is armed you get the flashing light by the mirror control. I don’t get a light at all. If I dont disarm the imobiliser on my tam it does the exact same sequence as you are finding. Its fires everything up but the fuel pump.
Remember if you unlock the car and leave it a while before attempting to start the imobiliser will have rearmed itself.
Out of curiosity, how long has the car been sat? I take it its been sat outside if the plugs were full of water?
Car has been sat for about 5 years outside. Looks surprisingly intact underneath. Bit of surface rust here and there on the chassis so will treat that. I will need to get it painted and I don’t think Reflex Green is cheap paint.
Adrian@ said:
Check all 3 fuses for failing and if the version of fuse holder has the nyloc nut (recent holders have nyloc nuts and mine came loose with the fuse arcing/failing under the flange nut) change them for a Phillidas version (M5) or go back to (OE) nut, washer and spring washer . The main earth eyelets lock under the bolt head through the shell (battery side) to the brass bobbin, BUT THEN backs off as you lock the nut and the footwell side eyelets in the foot well leaving a poor earth. THEN, there is a soldered joint above the passenger side knees in the alarm loom that failed on my car, simply by the joint not being cleaned and a green flux verdigris getting damp and creating a short/tracking, leaving the alarm as such dead and not working.
A picture of the connection that is above the passenger side knee.
A@
Thanks for the tip. Sounds logical so will take a look and report back. A picture of the connection that is above the passenger side knee.
A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 2nd May 14:22
If you're not hearing the pump(s) prime then it could be the very poor tank connection plug. Wondefully they fail inside the tank. Thankfully the plugs are no longer available.
This was my issue.
I bought a couple of new plugs - properly rated - and got the tank plate modified to take the new plug, rewired inside the tank, renewed the hose sections in the tank and all is well. The cabling inside the tank just sits on the baffles - yes the unprotected wiring just sits on the edge of the baffle plates inside the tank. I used the old hose to cover the edge of the baffles and to sleeve the wiring.
I have a spare (mk1 version) plate with a shorter internal pipe for the pump connection if yours has blown.
This was my issue.
I bought a couple of new plugs - properly rated - and got the tank plate modified to take the new plug, rewired inside the tank, renewed the hose sections in the tank and all is well. The cabling inside the tank just sits on the baffles - yes the unprotected wiring just sits on the edge of the baffle plates inside the tank. I used the old hose to cover the edge of the baffles and to sleeve the wiring.
I have a spare (mk1 version) plate with a shorter internal pipe for the pump connection if yours has blown.
mk1fan said:
If you're not hearing the pump(s) prime then it could be the very poor tank connection plug. Wondefully they fail inside the tank. Thankfully the plugs are no longer available.
This was my issue.
I bought a couple of new plugs - properly rated - and got the tank plate modified to take the new plug, rewired inside the tank, renewed the hose sections in the tank and all is well. The cabling inside the tank just sits on the baffles - yes the unprotected wiring just sits on the edge of the baffle plates inside the tank. I used the old hose to cover the edge of the baffles and to sleeve the wiring.
I have a spare (mk1 version) plate with a shorter internal pipe for the pump connection if yours has blown.
Thank you for the suggestion however I think it’s immobiliser related because it won’t turn over either. I am going to check the fuel system later in the recommissioning process so I may well come back to you. This was my issue.
I bought a couple of new plugs - properly rated - and got the tank plate modified to take the new plug, rewired inside the tank, renewed the hose sections in the tank and all is well. The cabling inside the tank just sits on the baffles - yes the unprotected wiring just sits on the edge of the baffle plates inside the tank. I used the old hose to cover the edge of the baffles and to sleeve the wiring.
I have a spare (mk1 version) plate with a shorter internal pipe for the pump connection if yours has blown.
After a lot of disconnecting contact cleaning and reassembly the 4.3 roared back into life, thanks for all the suggestions. I also fitted a new alternator this morning and apart from the pulley being an PITA to move over that’s now kicking out 13.7v. All the pressures and temps look good. Both fans kicking in as they should. I’ve also put some new encapsulated nuts in the door cards so they now don’t flap around. Progress is being made.
Now a few errors have popped up on the dash.
Brake fluid low - well it’s gone so that’s the next job. I’ll check out the callipers for leaks, replace the flexi hoses and re bleed.
Temp 0 - I’m guessing I need a new air temp sensor. Does anyone know how to test the sensor so I can confirm if it’s dud?
Tacho zero - the needle does its usual swing round the dial as does the mph but the tacho stops in an odd place too far from zero to adjust with the buttons. Any suggestions welcome?
Other issues I’ve spotted are that the drivers door does not work at all. Both the latch and the window not working. Passenger door is fine.
Thanks for the continued help. Much appreciated.
Now a few errors have popped up on the dash.
Brake fluid low - well it’s gone so that’s the next job. I’ll check out the callipers for leaks, replace the flexi hoses and re bleed.
Temp 0 - I’m guessing I need a new air temp sensor. Does anyone know how to test the sensor so I can confirm if it’s dud?
Tacho zero - the needle does its usual swing round the dial as does the mph but the tacho stops in an odd place too far from zero to adjust with the buttons. Any suggestions welcome?
Other issues I’ve spotted are that the drivers door does not work at all. Both the latch and the window not working. Passenger door is fine.
Thanks for the continued help. Much appreciated.
mk1fan said:
If you're not hearing the pump(s) prime then it could be the very poor tank connection plug. Wondefully they fail inside the tank. Thankfully the plugs are no longer available.
This was my issue.
I bought a couple of new plugs - properly rated - and got the tank plate modified to take the new plug, rewired inside the tank, renewed the hose sections in the tank and all is well. The cabling inside the tank just sits on the baffles - yes the unprotected wiring just sits on the edge of the baffle plates inside the tank. I used the old hose to cover the edge of the baffles and to sleeve the wiring.
I have a spare (mk1 version) plate with a shorter internal pipe for the pump connection if yours has blown.
Do you have some pics of this operation? I assume you removed the tank? This was my issue.
I bought a couple of new plugs - properly rated - and got the tank plate modified to take the new plug, rewired inside the tank, renewed the hose sections in the tank and all is well. The cabling inside the tank just sits on the baffles - yes the unprotected wiring just sits on the edge of the baffle plates inside the tank. I used the old hose to cover the edge of the baffles and to sleeve the wiring.
I have a spare (mk1 version) plate with a shorter internal pipe for the pump connection if yours has blown.
Brakes and suspension are the next stages of the recommissioning.
I found the brake fluid leak on the banjo connection to one of the front callipers so I’ve ordered new flexi hoses so that’s an easy fix. Callipers look in good condition but I’ll test before refitting.
The suspension is the worst corrosion area on the car. Most of the powder coat has flaked off and a good deal of surface rust everywhere. I plan to strip the suspension and get it treated and re powder coated. None of the rust is causing any structural damage so should be ok but I will replace any parts that need it. I upgraded to Nitrons when I had the engine upgraded. When I removed them I noticed two of the springs has broken so will send them off for a service.
I found the brake fluid leak on the banjo connection to one of the front callipers so I’ve ordered new flexi hoses so that’s an easy fix. Callipers look in good condition but I’ll test before refitting.
The suspension is the worst corrosion area on the car. Most of the powder coat has flaked off and a good deal of surface rust everywhere. I plan to strip the suspension and get it treated and re powder coated. None of the rust is causing any structural damage so should be ok but I will replace any parts that need it. I upgraded to Nitrons when I had the engine upgraded. When I removed them I noticed two of the springs has broken so will send them off for a service.
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