Discussion
I recently got a lowered NC 2.0 Sport.
The handling is a bit erratic and it's pulling to the left so clearly tracking was out.
I took it to a local tyre place recommended by a mechanic I know as nearest MX5 specialist is quite a trek. They were actually very expensive, they quoted £350 to do the front/rear, they said pretty much every setting was out fairly badly.
They fixed the rear, did the camber on the front but were unable to fix the car pulling to left on front due to worn / seized parts. The guy on the desk didn't really know what he was talking about, but said they'd send me a quote and I didn't have time to wait around.
I assume that would be tie rod ends seized / worn?
The handling is a bit erratic and it's pulling to the left so clearly tracking was out.
I took it to a local tyre place recommended by a mechanic I know as nearest MX5 specialist is quite a trek. They were actually very expensive, they quoted £350 to do the front/rear, they said pretty much every setting was out fairly badly.
They fixed the rear, did the camber on the front but were unable to fix the car pulling to left on front due to worn / seized parts. The guy on the desk didn't really know what he was talking about, but said they'd send me a quote and I didn't have time to wait around.
I assume that would be tie rod ends seized / worn?
Probably the track rod ends, easy enough job. If they are seized it’s easier to change the inners at the same time.
Castor bolts can also seize but that’s a new arm job and won’t affect the steering. Also if it’s pulling under load/off throttle miss matched rear tyres will also do that so make sure they are matched and equally inflated.
Castor bolts can also seize but that’s a new arm job and won’t affect the steering. Also if it’s pulling under load/off throttle miss matched rear tyres will also do that so make sure they are matched and equally inflated.
Thanks, he mentioned the castors, but I as confused as its the direction that's affected.
It has a set of PS4 all with around the same dread 5.5mm.
It's already much better than when I bought it, the settings were off on almost everything it was a bit of a handful. Now it's just slightly putting to the left.
It has a set of PS4 all with around the same dread 5.5mm.
It's already much better than when I bought it, the settings were off on almost everything it was a bit of a handful. Now it's just slightly putting to the left.
They reduced the price to £218, removing costs of the parts they say they could not adjust.
I asked them to get me a price for work before committing to letting them do it and not heard from them yet, I'll chase tomorrow.
£350 did sound like a lot for 4 wheel alignment, although I don't really know, I just had it in my head it would be less. I'm sure they're good guys but I'd rather shop about and find specialist if suspensions components are being replaced.
I asked them to get me a price for work before committing to letting them do it and not heard from them yet, I'll chase tomorrow.
£350 did sound like a lot for 4 wheel alignment, although I don't really know, I just had it in my head it would be less. I'm sure they're good guys but I'd rather shop about and find specialist if suspensions components are being replaced.
Bertrum said:
Probably the track rod ends, easy enough job. If they are seized it s easier to change the inners at the same time.
Castor bolts can also seize but that s a new arm job and won t affect the steering. Also if it s pulling under load/off throttle miss matched rear tyres will also do that so make sure they are matched and equally inflated.
Would that be the upper or lower arm?Castor bolts can also seize but that s a new arm job and won t affect the steering. Also if it s pulling under load/off throttle miss matched rear tyres will also do that so make sure they are matched and equally inflated.
It's highly likely to be the castor bolts on the front, it's a really common issue. Both bolts on the front lower arms have adjustment, front bolt is camber, rear bolt castor. The shank of the bolt rusts inside the bush and freezes in place. It's a b
h of a job to remove as the bolt needs to be cut through either side of the bush and access is particularly tricky with the rear bush as it's deep inside the subframe. I would imagine a garage would charge a fair bit to do this, plus there's also means the cost of a new bolt and a new bush. If they have to cut or damage the lower arm itself, they're really not cheap, but the bush is avaiable separately.
h of a job to remove as the bolt needs to be cut through either side of the bush and access is particularly tricky with the rear bush as it's deep inside the subframe. I would imagine a garage would charge a fair bit to do this, plus there's also means the cost of a new bolt and a new bush. If they have to cut or damage the lower arm itself, they're really not cheap, but the bush is avaiable separately.Belle427 said:
Basic 4 wheel hunter style alignment usually is around £100 but custom set ups etc can be 3 to 5 times that depending where you take it.
That's what I thought, they were just doing a standard alignment. It's a national tyre place, albeit a slightly better one. Live and learn.
Think I'll take it to a specialist to get sorted.
JoeMk1 said:
It's highly likely to be the castor bolts on the front, it's a really common issue. Both bolts on the front lower arms have adjustment, front bolt is camber, rear bolt castor. The shank of the bolt rusts inside the bush and freezes in place. It's a bh of a job to remove as the bolt needs to be cut through either side of the bush and access is particularly tricky with the rear bush as it's deep inside the subframe. I would imagine a garage would charge a fair bit to do this, plus there's also means the cost of a new bolt and a new bush. If they have to cut or damage the lower arm itself, they're really not cheap, but the bush is avaiable separately.
This is really useful. h of a job to remove as the bolt needs to be cut through either side of the bush and access is particularly tricky with the rear bush as it's deep inside the subframe. I would imagine a garage would charge a fair bit to do this, plus there's also means the cost of a new bolt and a new bush. If they have to cut or damage the lower arm itself, they're really not cheap, but the bush is avaiable separately.The tyre place were suggesting new arms, which is why I didn't get it done with them.
I spoke to a nearby specialist, he suggests it would likely be cheaper just to get OEM arms replaced.
I'm just wondering about putting power flex bushes in, if I have to spend a bit on the front chassis.
I assume that involves taking off the existing arms and lots of labour to get the current bushes out?
I'm just wondering about putting power flex bushes in, if I have to spend a bit on the front chassis.
I assume that involves taking off the existing arms and lots of labour to get the current bushes out?
Gassing Station | Mazda MX5/Roadster/Miata | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff