Stars/Spiders/Cracks in the body shell
Discussion
Just a quick question to see if anyone else has had this issue.
While showing a potential buyer around the car yesterday he noticed 3-4 star like cracks in the front canopy between the radiator grill and the windscreen.
There is nothing below this area for it to foul on.
If you have had this issue how have you resolved it?
Thanks
Michael
While showing a potential buyer around the car yesterday he noticed 3-4 star like cracks in the front canopy between the radiator grill and the windscreen.
There is nothing below this area for it to foul on.
If you have had this issue how have you resolved it?
Thanks
Michael
Sadly to hear your nice looking "new" black monster car is a bit damaged, and sadly for me that I don't have that amount of money you aske for your lovely car, the car would fit me! even with RHD.
I had that damage too(long time ago) with a GRP body'd car...but that was my own fault, I droped the hood down to lock...but there was stil a tool under the hood...so I got a crack in the hood...
since that time I look twice before dropping a door or hood on a car.
Rene
I had that damage too(long time ago) with a GRP body'd car...but that was my own fault, I droped the hood down to lock...but there was stil a tool under the hood...so I got a crack in the hood...
since that time I look twice before dropping a door or hood on a car. Rene
A coat of lizard skin may prevent future mishaps (www.lizardskin.com).
Had a look at your website, very nice car. May I ask why you are selling the car already?
Had a look at your website, very nice car. May I ask why you are selling the car already?
That sounds odd. Large stones and road debris caught up by the tyres can cause spider-like cracks in the gel-coat above the wheel wells as the debris is spun around and impacts the GRP from underneath. I've seen that on another GTR.
But in the area between the front grill and the windshield - there should not be stones flying up there. Are you sure that nothing is fouling with the body as you close the front clip? My GTR has a rubber spacer on either side of the front edge of the windshield to hold the front clip away from, and at the right body space from, the center section.
Do you have these? Could they be set too far away from the body, putting stress on the center parts of the front clip? Another thought - I had trouble with the front latches, and ended up moving them upwards slightly. If you have been closing the front clip with more pressure, it could be that the latches are pulling it too tightly down to the body.
For me, I've found that bits of one-sided tape, putty, or bluetack, are good ways of picking up where the body pieces close or rest too closely to the rest of the car.
You probably already use these tricks. Best of luck in fixing the problem. I'd be particularly interested in learning how you actually fix these types of gel coat cracks.
But in the area between the front grill and the windshield - there should not be stones flying up there. Are you sure that nothing is fouling with the body as you close the front clip? My GTR has a rubber spacer on either side of the front edge of the windshield to hold the front clip away from, and at the right body space from, the center section.
Do you have these? Could they be set too far away from the body, putting stress on the center parts of the front clip? Another thought - I had trouble with the front latches, and ended up moving them upwards slightly. If you have been closing the front clip with more pressure, it could be that the latches are pulling it too tightly down to the body.
For me, I've found that bits of one-sided tape, putty, or bluetack, are good ways of picking up where the body pieces close or rest too closely to the rest of the car.
You probably already use these tricks. Best of luck in fixing the problem. I'd be particularly interested in learning how you actually fix these types of gel coat cracks.
Repairing these can be a real pig, you basically have to dig them out and refill. Some times it may be necessary to drill a small hole right through the body at the end of a crack, to relieve the stress and stop it cracking further. You may need to add glassfibre underneath to put back the strength then reapply gel coat and flat to finish.
I found a nice example on my drivers’ door, on top just below the mirror. I have no idea how it got there, only explanation is that a tool hit it hard from inside but I can not remember a single incident during building that could have caused it. To date I have left it alone as Ultima and another body expert went, “Uhm, that’s a little difficult to fix”. So far it has not spread and nobody has noticed, but I guess people will look for it now I’ve made it public!
As for the wheel arch areas I double skinned mine with two layers of fibreglass matting even though I was told that Ultima’s do not generally suffer from crazing in those areas. But my experience with another kit car left me somewhat paranoid so guessed prevention was better than cure.
I found a nice example on my drivers’ door, on top just below the mirror. I have no idea how it got there, only explanation is that a tool hit it hard from inside but I can not remember a single incident during building that could have caused it. To date I have left it alone as Ultima and another body expert went, “Uhm, that’s a little difficult to fix”. So far it has not spread and nobody has noticed, but I guess people will look for it now I’ve made it public!
As for the wheel arch areas I double skinned mine with two layers of fibreglass matting even though I was told that Ultima’s do not generally suffer from crazing in those areas. But my experience with another kit car left me somewhat paranoid so guessed prevention was better than cure.
How fix cracks and crazing in gelcoat -
Grind out the cracks with a dremel.
Clean the exposed fibreglass thoroughly.
Mix up some gelcoat of the right colour (manufacturer should be able to supply) and hardener.
Slightly over fill the cracks.
Spend the next couple of weeks sanding down then polishing until it is flat and shiny.
If you can't get the right colour or desired finish then you will need to respray the entire car. This is quite likely as most cars gelcoat will have faded over time, the new stuff won't have.
Grind out the cracks with a dremel.
Clean the exposed fibreglass thoroughly.
Mix up some gelcoat of the right colour (manufacturer should be able to supply) and hardener.
Slightly over fill the cracks.
Spend the next couple of weeks sanding down then polishing until it is flat and shiny.
If you can't get the right colour or desired finish then you will need to respray the entire car. This is quite likely as most cars gelcoat will have faded over time, the new stuff won't have.
denisb said:
How fix cracks and crazing in gelcoat -
.....
Thanks... since I'm a bit of a novice on all this, I've found that practicing on something else is a good idea first. If/when I need to do this type of repair, where can I get something that would be similar to practice on? Is the Ultima gel-coat and GRP like a fiberglass canoe or boat? Would that be good to practice on - especially the sanding and final polishing??
crafty said:
Sorry Rene, that was sarcasm, perhaps lost in the translation to Dutch?
Obviously I wouldnt recommend anyone buys a TVR, not even for practising gelcoat repairs.
(more sarcasm)
I understood, no problem
Sometimes its a bit difficult to translate carthings from Dutch to English, but then I try to look for more easy words, but also manny carstuf words are not availeble in my dictionary when I try to find them...aaaaaaaaaaah...but most of the times I know almost all what is mentioned at PH, and I hope to get better in years
René
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