T350c finally back together, won t start!
Discussion
Well it’s taken 5 years to get my t350 assembled and this has the shine taken off, as it won’t start.
Turns over, immobiliser seems to switch off.
The dash board lights up and seems to work eg oil and water temp 25c but no oil pressure after cranking. There is an error message think it 11.
The fuel pump is running all the time no spark at plugs. Connection to ecu comes back with “no connection” or some such.
This did run when dissembled but has been extensively rebuilt over the last five years, I’m looking for suggestions for further investigation,
Are there any volatile memory/ battery items?
Should the pump running all the time?
I am tending towards sending the ecu away, any suggestions to expertise?
Any way, I would appreciate your collective thoughts on my problem
Simon
Turns over, immobiliser seems to switch off.
The dash board lights up and seems to work eg oil and water temp 25c but no oil pressure after cranking. There is an error message think it 11.
The fuel pump is running all the time no spark at plugs. Connection to ecu comes back with “no connection” or some such.
This did run when dissembled but has been extensively rebuilt over the last five years, I’m looking for suggestions for further investigation,
Are there any volatile memory/ battery items?
Should the pump running all the time?
I am tending towards sending the ecu away, any suggestions to expertise?
Any way, I would appreciate your collective thoughts on my problem
Simon
The priming you hear when turning the ignition on is the power steering pump, not to be mistaken for the fuel pump. Are you sure it's the fuel pump? Then the relay might be stuck on.
Can't remember if the fuel pump primes when turning ignition on but it should only prime for 2s max.
After that it won't and shouldn't run as long as the crank isn't turning.
The ECU registers this via rhe crank sensor.
Therefore you should first check if the connector is properly fitted to the crankshaft sensor.
If it is, pull it off and clean its terminals with chemical contact cleaner. Measure the resistance between the two terminals on the sensor itself. If you measure 0.x or a larger than 2kOhms resistance it's broken.
Check the fuse too and then have a helper (or long leads to your multimeter) check if you get 12V to the fuel pump whilst cranking.
HTH
Can't remember if the fuel pump primes when turning ignition on but it should only prime for 2s max.
After that it won't and shouldn't run as long as the crank isn't turning.
The ECU registers this via rhe crank sensor.
Therefore you should first check if the connector is properly fitted to the crankshaft sensor.
If it is, pull it off and clean its terminals with chemical contact cleaner. Measure the resistance between the two terminals on the sensor itself. If you measure 0.x or a larger than 2kOhms resistance it's broken.
Check the fuse too and then have a helper (or long leads to your multimeter) check if you get 12V to the fuel pump whilst cranking.
HTH
Edited by hardtailer on Sunday 20th July 20:12
Hi further investigations
Fuel pump running with both fuse and relay out, also ecu disconnected.
Guess radical short is r there, perusing the fuse board shows evidence of water so I guess I have the next avenue. I note that this is similar to symptom from another tvr PistonHead.
Will keep me busy
Simon
Fuel pump running with both fuse and relay out, also ecu disconnected.
Guess radical short is r there, perusing the fuse board shows evidence of water so I guess I have the next avenue. I note that this is similar to symptom from another tvr PistonHead.
Will keep me busy
Simon
Hi further investigations
Fuel pump running with both fuse and relay out, also ecu disconnected.
Guess radical short is r there, perusing the fuse board shows evidence of water so I guess I have the next avenue. I note that this is similar to symptom from another tvr PistonHead.
Will keep me busy
Simon
Fuel pump running with both fuse and relay out, also ecu disconnected.
Guess radical short is r there, perusing the fuse board shows evidence of water so I guess I have the next avenue. I note that this is similar to symptom from another tvr PistonHead.
Will keep me busy
Simon
simon_simon said:
Hi further investigations
Well I found a link/bodge supplying ignition volts direct to a pump, that’s why the pump ran all the time. I have looked at the fuse board and it looks ok, peeling paint looked like water ingress, falsely.
The bodge shorted out the inertia switch the fuse and the relay. The net result of my fiddling is I may have reset the inertia switch as the car now starts. Only run a short time which is great however I’ve not really worked out why the bodge was applied, may have been to favour one particular pump, assuming there are two pumps.
Can anyone confirm there are two pumps in the tank?
It’s all a bit of guesstimating at the mo
TIA
Simon
Well I found a link/bodge supplying ignition volts direct to a pump, that’s why the pump ran all the time. I have looked at the fuse board and it looks ok, peeling paint looked like water ingress, falsely.
The bodge shorted out the inertia switch the fuse and the relay. The net result of my fiddling is I may have reset the inertia switch as the car now starts. Only run a short time which is great however I’ve not really worked out why the bodge was applied, may have been to favour one particular pump, assuming there are two pumps.
Can anyone confirm there are two pumps in the tank?
It’s all a bit of guesstimating at the mo
TIA
Simon
My 2005 T350c is as followis
Fuel tank is an upturned u-shape.
There are two fuel pumps - one each side of the tank..
On top of the tank the drivers side pump is fitted together with the fuel delivery/return hoses and electrical connections for the pumps and the tank level gauge through a removable plate on the drivers side of the fuel tank. These connections can be seen when looking up through the drivers side rear wheel arch.
In the boot floor there is an access panel above this plate so.that you can remove the hoses electrical connections etc and then unfasten the plate with the fuel tank in place. (abt a dozen small screws to remove, then carefully separate the plate from the body using a small blade to cut the old sealant).
NOTE
1. the fuel hose stubs are easily damaged/cracked during hose removal. It is best to cut the hoses off and carefully fit new one on reassembly.
2. Renew the rubber gasket for the access plate and refit it (plus gasket sealant) to ensure water from the wheel-arch cannot get in to the boot space
I am unsure if the passenger side pump has similar access.
My understanding is the two pumps are required :-
(a) to fully empty the tank due to its shape
(b) one pump can only supply sufficient fuel for abt ??80%?? power thus 2 needed for 100% power
Hope this helps you
Hamish Cubitt
Fuel tank is an upturned u-shape.
There are two fuel pumps - one each side of the tank..
On top of the tank the drivers side pump is fitted together with the fuel delivery/return hoses and electrical connections for the pumps and the tank level gauge through a removable plate on the drivers side of the fuel tank. These connections can be seen when looking up through the drivers side rear wheel arch.
In the boot floor there is an access panel above this plate so.that you can remove the hoses electrical connections etc and then unfasten the plate with the fuel tank in place. (abt a dozen small screws to remove, then carefully separate the plate from the body using a small blade to cut the old sealant).
NOTE
1. the fuel hose stubs are easily damaged/cracked during hose removal. It is best to cut the hoses off and carefully fit new one on reassembly.
2. Renew the rubber gasket for the access plate and refit it (plus gasket sealant) to ensure water from the wheel-arch cannot get in to the boot space
I am unsure if the passenger side pump has similar access.
My understanding is the two pumps are required :-
(a) to fully empty the tank due to its shape
(b) one pump can only supply sufficient fuel for abt ??80%?? power thus 2 needed for 100% power
Hope this helps you
Hamish Cubitt
Further info
The supply fuse feeds power to a 5 terminal relay for the 2 pumps
Beware there are two types of 5 terminal relay.
When the correct type relay is energised it switches two output terminals ON
One of these output terminal connects to the nearside fuel pump (?? and power steering ??)
The other output terminal connects to the offside fuel pump
When the wrong type relay is energised it switches one output terminal ON and the other output terminal OFF
Hamish
The supply fuse feeds power to a 5 terminal relay for the 2 pumps
Beware there are two types of 5 terminal relay.
When the correct type relay is energised it switches two output terminals ON
One of these output terminal connects to the nearside fuel pump (?? and power steering ??)
The other output terminal connects to the offside fuel pump
When the wrong type relay is energised it switches one output terminal ON and the other output terminal OFF
Hamish
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