Front Window Lubrication / Sticky
Front Window Lubrication / Sticky
Author
Discussion

Windy Miller

Original Poster:

232 posts

234 months

Yesterday (19:16)
quotequote all
Anyone had any issues with a front (nearside) electric window that really struggles lifting the window back up on the lower half of the travel? This one has been a bit sluggish these last few years, but always got there. This year, it needs a help to raise the window by pinching the glass and pulling up at the same time as activating the switch.

At the moment, I have the door trim off and am judiciously trying to spray white lithium grease at the various moving bits of the regulator, whilst trying to minimise the amount of plastic water shield sheet I peel off, being aware that this sheet is a bit precious, and issues with it can lead to wet footwells, which so far has never been a problem. So far, I think I have managed to direct aerosol white grease, through the straw poked through a tiny bit of sheet pulled off, into all the relevant bits, but still the window is sluggish to raise, and still needs a help. So looking to see if there are any other bits I can lubricate, before I go the whole hog, peel the sheet completely off and drill out the rivets holding the regulator in.

The window seems to open no bother, with gravity helping it. But closing is a bit sluggish. OK, when its more than 50% up, it will go the rest of the way itself. But the bottom 50% is hopeless, and the concern is that someone opens the window fully, then we cannot get a grip of it to help it up.

There is some other friction surfaces where glass runs on the door edges, but obvioulsy not suitable for applying grease on

bigwheel

1,634 posts

230 months

Yesterday (19:41)
quotequote all
Hi, the area in your last paragraph is the usual place for causing difficult window raising.
I don't remember the type of product to get into the channel/groove where the glass slides.

Windy Miller

Original Poster:

232 posts

234 months

Yesterday (19:52)
quotequote all
May need to try step 8 as in the below....



Though no reason to believe it should have gone out of adjustment. Have also noted its at its worst in the middle of the lift, when the regulator has the least mechanical advantage over the glass. It can actually lift the glass from fully open, but grinds to a halt about 30% up. Then needs help to get past 50% up, then off it goes on its own again.

Windy Miller

Original Poster:

232 posts

234 months

Yesterday (19:53)
quotequote all
bigwheel said:
Hi, the area in your last paragraph is the usual place for causing difficult window raising.
I don't remember the type of product to get into the channel/groove where the glass slides.
At that point, the door frame seems to be lined with a black velour type fabric. Lubricating anything there will just be a clarty mess! irked

L2VXR

1,005 posts

229 months

Yesterday (20:03)
quotequote all
I think this problem has been discussed before and turned out to be the runners attached to the glass had come unstuck and need rebonding.

Lincsls1

3,714 posts

156 months

Yesterday (20:15)
quotequote all
Windy Miller said:
bigwheel said:
Hi, the area in your last paragraph is the usual place for causing difficult window raising.
I don't remember the type of product to get into the channel/groove where the glass slides.
At that point, the door frame seems to be lined with a black velour type fabric. Lubricating anything there will just be a clarty mess! irked
My passenger window was also struggling when I first bought the car.
I sprayed copious amounts of silicon spray into the channel you describe (the rear edge one) and hey presto, massive improvement and surprisingly not that messy. I used the straw attachment to direct it into the channel. That was 7 years ago now, maybe time for me to do it again.
Do it when the car is due a clean. biglaugh


Windy Miller

Original Poster:

232 posts

234 months

Yesterday (20:16)
quotequote all
Yeah, thinking I should get a less windy day / evening, and remove the water shield sheet after softening the adhesive with a hairdryer. Get it completely out of the way and get a right look at everything. Trying to look at this with that sheet in place is very restrictive.

L2VXR

1,005 posts

229 months

Yesterday (20:53)
quotequote all
I removed all the original glue from the door and the plastic sheet when I did the rust proofing and re-stuck it with refix tape (3M or Jtape) . I've used refix tape on hundreds of car doors when i worked in a bodyshop and as long as it's clean and dry when fitting is perfect.
The old glue is a pain to get off but the best way I found was to use the glue itself in a gum ball and keep dabbing it on the glue you want to remove and it pulls it off.